ABANDON HOPE AND ENTER CAVEDALE

The best laid plans have been thwarted again and our promised hike from Hope up Win Hill has had to be postponed. This time, gales, heavy rain, sleet, hail - the works! A power cut where I live means no hot water and, worse still, no coffee. Fortunately a quick text to PC resolves this and she gamely brings along coffee as well as bun, and we also rearrange our walk; we don't want to be on high ground in these winds.

So, with Hope abandoned we decide to meet in Castleton instead and are surprised, given the weather, how busy it is. Already there are groups of bedraggled schoolchildren/Duke of Edinburgh walkers out, along with the Easter holiday-makers. 

As usual we park up on the road just past the Peak Cavern, drag on all our waterproof gear, then set off down the road heading towards Cavedale. 

As soon as we turn up between the houses to the dale entrance we have a taste of what is to come. The tiny lane is awash and the wind is funnelling down strongly. We push on through the gate and start our upward paddle, leaning against the wind. Strangely enough, the photos do not show how wet it really is!

We pause beneath the castle as a group of youngsters ahead of us stop, seemingly lost. Their discussion lasts a while before they set off again, on the only path ahead!

When we reach the spot where the group had been we realise why they had paused. It feels as though all the four winds have congregated in this one spot and it is extremely difficult to move forward. No wonder they were debating whether to go on or not. For us, though, there is no dilemma. We have every intention of forging ahead. I promise PC (without anything to back up my assertions, naturally) that further up the valley the wind will be less forceful. 

As we fight our way upwards against the wind and through a wide stream-bed there is a brief glimmer of sunshine. PC captures it perfectly. It makes the whole landscape look benign and pleasant.

 So, just to put the record straight, and get rid of the idea that maybe we were just making it up about the weather, I have added one of my own photos (from my phone) below. Yes, the river is the footpath!

As we climb up Cavedale against the tide (it certainly feels that way) the wind does actually lessen although there seems to be more and more water. It cascades over the limestone in a manner that would undoubtedly have made Capability Brown jealous, although he would probably have made the path around it rather than through it.

Eventually we make it through the gate at the top, relieved to have made it over the worst of the river-cum-path. A natural spring is gushing from the woods a little lower down on our left and beyond it is relatively dry (relative to the downpour and soggy ground). We pause to admire the view, have a nip from the secret flask as a reward, then press onwards.

It is nearing lunchtime so we decide to find somewhere sheltered to have food. It isn't easy, but eventually we managed to huddle up behind some rocks that give us sufficient protection from the wind. We are very close to the path, sadly, but that can't be helped. 

My first hot drink of the day (thank you, PC) goes down extremely well, then we follow with sandwiches and, joy of joys, yummy buns and a drink (it's my birthday walk, and PC is treating me!). The buns are fantastic, fat choux buns with fresh cream and sticky chocolate icing on top. And the drink is fizz. Bliss.

A surprising number of walkers come past us, most just say a quick hello, but one couple have no idea where they are or where they are going. The have come up from Castleton, they tell us (no, really!) but wonder where the path leads and if they can get back to Castleton, and how far, and where do they go, and how far have they come and how long will it take.........the questions go on. They have no map, no food, nothing to drink (they tell us with a kind of misplaced pride) and are hoping we will provide directions and instructions. We do the best we can and send them on their way whilst refraining from telling them to be better prepared next time.

The wind is still keen but the rain has stopped by the time we have finished lunch, so we carry on up the valley along the gentler, wide path. It is quite muddy in places and when we come to one of the gates we are in for a paddle. Mollie is the only one who is happy about it.

We continue ahead, avoiding the mud, then veering to the left where the wide swathe of the path climbs up. It is well walked (this is the Limestone Way, after all) but still grassy. As we reach the top of the rise the wind hits us again with renewed force. We are walking into it and feel as though we are pushing against treacle.

Through the gate and we turn right, then right again heading towards Winnat's Pass. The group of hikers we had remarked on earlier (and seen a couple more times) are at a standstill again close to Rowter Farm. It looks as though this time we might be in danger of catching up with them, but they set off again.

However, a few hundred yards later and they are, once more at a standstill. This time we do catch up and overtake them; a group of older teens debating their route. However, there isn't much choice, other than straight ahead.

They follow us to the end of the lane and as we open the gate to get onto the road they decide to take the stile. Seems a waste of energy, especially since they appear to need to stop every few hundred yards or so.

We turn right and head for Winnat's Pass, the group disappear to who-knows-where. The wind is behind us now but at least the rain has stopped.

It is a familiar walk down the winding Pass, and we keep to the left hand side where there is a path behind a wall. Slippery in places over the worn limestone it is important to be cautious.

Once through the gate at the bottom and onto the wide verge running alongside the road we realise that this might be the hardest part of the walk. The whole verge is a sodden mass with running water and slippery mud. PC has her walking poles which she needs to keep herself upright, and I eventually step onto the road with Mollie as it seems the safer option.

With the wind behind me I find myself being pushing into a jog, PC is quite surprised as I pass her but anything we might say to each other is whipped away by the gale.

Eventually I make it back onto the verge, steady myself against the wind which is pushing like crowd of schoolchildren trying to get onto the bus home. When PC catches up we round a small outcrop in the hope that it will protect us. It affords little help, and there is even more water here.

And then it happens: my turn to bite the dust - or rather, the mud and slush. A combination of wind, mud and rain has me on the skating rink to nowhere. I'm not hurt, fortunately, but it is a struggle to get enough purchase to stand up again, even with PC's help. 

No harm done, so we continue carefully down the slope towards the Speedwell Cavern car park. From here there is a pavement to lead us safely back to the cars. However, looking over our shoulders we see a storm coming, and our final stroll becomes a rush to get back before it reaches us. 

Hail and sleet, driven by the battering gale, hits just as we are getting into the cars. Within a couple of minutes the windscreen is white rimmed and visibility is down to a couple of hundred yards. It would be safe to say that we have made it back in the nick of time.

ALPORT,ROBIN HOOD'S STRIDE and A STONE CIRCLE

We're back, but it has been a bit hit and miss (more miss, to be honest) and we're tackling this at our second attempt.

We meet in the layby at Alport, the pretty village close to Youlgreave, and as we pull on our layers we catch up with all the news since before the New Year. It seems forever since we were last out!

The weather has been pretty grim these last few weeks so we are hoping that we haven't picked a walk that is too muddy. We have been on part of the route in the past, but much of it is completely new to us so we don't really know what to expect.

We set off down the road and cross to post a letter before taking some pictures of the river, then take the path at the side of the red telephone box. The path is broad, and firm, but there are some large puddles.

In a field adjacent to the path are two very noisy, bossy geese who seem to be less than pleased to see us. PC chats to them as she tries to persuade them to pose for a photo (yes, honest) but I eye them warily and am glad that we aren't any closer.

The path follows the course of the River Lathkill (or is it now the River Bradford?) and we pause to admire the attractive packhorse bridge 

over the water before we press on. The path leads us to the road in Youlgreave at the start of Bradford Dale (and another attractive bridge) 

but instead of crossing over the road and entering the Dale we turn left and walk up the road a little way. There is an old stone building in the field to our left, and just beyond it a signpost pointing across the field for the Limestone Way. This is the one we want.

To say that the Limestone Way is one of the major Derbyshire walking routes we are quite surprised to find that the path across this field, and subsequent ones, is not heavily used. It is well signed, though, which is an advantage when crossing fairly featureless fields.

We do have a couple of sections of mud and waterlogged ground to tip-toe through, and when we come to Bleakley Dike we find that one of the rickety stepping stones to the stile-gate is completely submerged beneath fast flowing water. Good boots a necessity!

There is an uphill stretch here, but with excellent views behind to the village of Youlgreave if you care to pause and look. Ahead of us is a ploughed field which we are not particularly looking forward to crossing.

In the end the ploughed field isn't quite as bad as we had feared - the farmer has 'reinstated' the path but it is still extremely claggy underfoot and at the far end we have to spend a while remove excess mud (and weight) from our boots.

Around the next bend in the path we have yet another wet and muddy section to negotiate, and a choice of routes. The Limestone Way turns sharply left to enter an unnamed wood, whereas the other path takes us through Harthill Moor Farm and adjacent to Castle Ring, and ancient earthwork. We decide to follow the Limestone Way so avoiding the farm, even though we don't have Mollie with us today.

The wood is quite dank and it is chillier here, not that we would call it particularly warm in the open. Still, we spy some rocks which look inviting enough to sit and have a drink (a nip of Ramblers to keep the chill at bay) and a huge triple chocolate chunk cookie to keep up going until lunchtime.

It is too cold to sit for very long so we continue on the path and reach a minor road where we decide to turn right, continuing on the Limestone Way, since we are well ahead of time. There is a farmer muck-spreading in a field at the top of the lane, but fortunately not in the field we plan to cross.

We spot what looks like some standing stones away to our left, and also have our first glance of the very impressive Robin Hood's Stride which we are now keen to visit. 

We debate as we walk as to whether the stones are standing stones, a stone circle or the remains of a farm building, but we check the map and after a while they come into clearer view and they are, without doubt, a very impressive stone circle.

There are four stones standing (the highest in Derbyshire) but are called the Nine Stones Close. We don't walk up to them as there is no Public Footpath to them, and with the farmer busy close by we decide not to risk being caught trespassing, though they may be worth a visit at another time.

Ahead of us the most impressive rocky outcrop called Robin Hood's Stride (also known as Mock Beggar's Mansion or Hall) with its two pinnacles (Weasel Pinnacle and Inaccessible Pinnacle). 

Naturally we clamber up and around it, and finally sit on the rocks close by with a wonderful view of the outcrop while we have lunch.

The sandwiches are typically boring but we have a small bottle of vino to help them down (long story, but not a celebration) and after the wine we have ginger muffins which are suitably gingery and sticky. The warming coffee is more than welcome after our lunch, and with the sun shining it is very tempting to stay for while, but we must press on.

We return to the path which is gouged deep between the Stride and the area which leads to Cratcliffe Crags. It is still the Limestone Way and is probably the route of the old Portway. We plan to return another day to explore the side near Cratcliffe Crags, and to find the Hermit Cave there.

The path is taking us downhill towards the road (B5056) and the worst part of this walk. We have no alternative but to walk along the roadside until we reach our return path, and there are no pavements or even grass verges to use as escape route on what turns out to be a very fast and quite busy road. Also, the sun has gone in casting us into gloom. Not pleasant, but at least we don't have Mollie with us as she hates traffic.

We pass the turning the Birchover and continue until we spot the Bridleway sign across the road, and go onto the path gratefully. It is very muddy across this field but we are pleased that we don't have to paddle across Ivy Bar Brook since there is a double bridle-gate and bridge.

From here it is uphill, and slippery. Where the path narrows it is extremely churned up by cyclists and it is hard to keep our footing. Clearly no horses have used this track for a while as the overhanging hedgerows wouldn't allow mounted riders (or anything other than small ponies) to pass safely.

At the top we come out at a gate and cross a large sheep field with clear lines of old ridge and furrow ploughing. Sadly the lack of sun means there aren't any shadows cast so our photos come out flat rather than interesting. Shame.

The farmer has very kindly put large, round sheep feeders right in the middle of the path, and many little sheepy feet have managed to turn the area around them into a quagmire. Lovely! Still, we soon reach the gate onto the road and cross over another field towards Lower Greenfields. We pass a few old caravans that seem to have been disused for some time, then once on a firm track we pass a small, neat caravan site. What an attractive holiday spot.

The lane continues gently downhill and soon we find ourselves (as planned - always a relief) on the track next to the river on the way back to Alport. A short stroll now (and an absence of geese this time) and we are back at the cars.

The weather has turned dark and gloomy, it will undoubtedly rain later, but we have succeeded in having a very good walk and opened up new possibilities for us in the future.

BEYOND YOULGREAVE AND THROUGH LATHKILLDALE

Well, the weather isn't too brilliant for today's walk, it is damp and foggy, but we are hoping for things to clear up later. But the first obstacle isn't so much the weather as actually meeting up.

Our plan, which seems eminently sensible when you look at the map, is to meet in the car park at the end of Moor Lane which leads out of Youlgreave. Simple, you'd think. Not so.

I'm the first to arrive by virtue of being the map reader and having a decent sense of direction, but it was touch and go. Moor Lane is a tiny offshoot from the main road in Youlgreave, easily missed unless you are expecting it and only signed with a hand painted sign. The narrow street I drove up looked as though it was someone's private driveway, then when I turned right onto the main lane I was greeted with a narrow lane and a sign saying 'Quiet Road'. To cut a long story short, it was an interesting drive and I was lucky only to encounter one car coming in the opposite direction (driven by an elderly gentleman who looked, quite frankly, scared and lost) and wasn't surprised to be first to arrive in the deserted car park.

To cut a long story short, it takes a few phone calls (thank goodness for modern technology and mobile reception) and hastily garbled directions (and a couple of chapters of my book as I wait) before PC manages to reach the car park a little late but in one piece and relieved not to have met any other traffic.

We're late setting off, but we're undaunted. We're Mollie-less until after Christmas so we only have ourselves to sort out, and we dress ourselves in our waterproofs from the outset as we doubt that the weather will clear much.

PC worries that the day won't produce many decent photos - there is the prospect of good views from the edge of the car park on a clear day, but all we see is murk - so she starts snapping straight away.

We walk down the 'quiet lane' and haven't gone far before a farm lorry comes rumbling up behind us! We both scale the grass bank at the side of the road and thank our lucky stars that we didn't meet it when we were driving. Once the lorry has passed we continue down the road, pause to photograph a statuesque tree which is posing grandly, then meet a footpath on our left which crosses a couple of grassy fields to another road (Back Lane).

Across the road we take the next footpath which, again, crosses fields. One thing that becomes immediately apparent is that the stiles around here are not terribly forgiving! Many are high off the ground for their first step meaning a good leg stretch for all but the long limbed, then fairly high too. No matter though. We're coping without any trouble and the weather has improved slightly too.

It is a fairly straight path, punctuated only by stiles, downhill towards Meadow Place Grange, a large farmyard. The current farmhouse is a Grade II listed building dating from the 18th century, but the original grange farm belonged to Augustinians of Leicester Abbey until the dissolution of the monasteries. Today it is still a working farm, and as we paddle along the muddy path towards the very high stile - which we clamber over with grace and dignity (naturally) - we realise that it isn't long since the inhabitants of the field passed this way too. Sure enough, at the other side we see cattle inside a large barn, and one cow in particular seems very interested in what we are doing.

 

We cross through the farm yard (fortunately, not so muddy now) and take the path directly opposite which climbs gently through a grass field before bringing us to the top of Meadow Place Wood.

The downhill path between the trees is a bit slippery in places, but soon we are approaching the River Lathkill and the footbridge adjacent to the ford. A group of hikers are sat around having lunch (is it that time already?) but we press on and onto the path which runs along the length of the Dale.

It seems very murky and gloomy in the Dale, although the recent rain has meant that the river is high. We have been here in the past when there has been no water at all, but not today. There are hardly any people about, not surprising since the weather has turned damp again. It doesn't encourage people to get out and we suspect many people will have hung up their boots for the winter. 

It is a pleasant enough walk along Lathkill Dale, even if the weather is grim, and we are able to talk about all sorts of things. One thing we do notice, though, is the amount of broken and shattered timber left over from last week's gales. Glad we weren't here then.

We are getting peckish but there aren't very many stopping points to eat a picnic, especially in the rain. The one place we were hoping to stop (opposite the path we will need later) is already occupied so we walk a little further until we find a comfortable ledge of limestone on which to sit.

We need a small drink of Ramblers first, and this is the last of the batch. Good job I have another bottle at home ready for straining. From the Ramblers we move onto coffee to warm us up before we start on the sandwiches. There's not a lot to say about sandwiches (other than they are very welcome) as it is the bun that excites our interest. Today they are muffins, with cream and a 'spiced fruit compote'. The compote has a few small lumps of fruit it in, not much, but it does make a nice change, and muffins always go down well. A second coffee sets us up ready for the next part of the walk.

We retrace our steps and once again we cross the river, climbing up the limestone path into Calling Low Dale. Thank goodness we chose to do the walk this way around as the slippery limestone requires care and the risk of falling always seems greater when going downhill.

Calling Low Dale is very quiet even though it leads to the Limestone Way, although most walkers in Lathkill Dale probably tend to go 'end to end'. The narrow path forks and we take the left hand, downward path which takes us to a wooden stile and a signpost. Yes, we're going in the right direction, although the sight ahead is not appealing. Steep limestone steps climbing seemingly straight up a very steep hillside. Once again we are reminded of the stairs of Cirith Ungol (Lord of the Rings) and hope that Shelob isn't at the top waiting for us!

We keep our eyes on where we are putting our feet, it is drizzling with rain again and we don't want to slip, but despite the climb we ascend with more ease that we had expected, although it may have been better to have walked up before the muffins (although PC is adamant that she needed the energy from the muffins to get up here). The views are pretty good, but spoiled by the poor weather. We'll have to revisit on a clear day.

We are on the Limestone Way now, and the path is very clearly signposted which is a rare bonus. We pass Calling Low Farm, skirting the buildings via fields and a small copse, then come out to another field. Here an eager horse trots up to greet us, clearly not thrilled with staying out in the cold and wind, and trying its hardest to persuade us to either feed it or take it in. Eventually it leaves us and goes to look over the field gate to the farm, hoping to attract attention.

 

The path across the field is diagonal, with an interesting waterlogged section in the centre, but we're soon over it and into the edge of another small wood before emerging back onto farmland. Here again the signposting is very clear and we are soon within sight of the blue P sign for our car park. Not far to go, and only one final stretch of a stile for us to negotiate.

From here we don't have far to walk before we are back at the cars in the otherwise empty car park. Despite the weather, and the initial problems finding our starting point, the walk has been very good. We've managed to go on paths we've never ventured on before, and we'll be taking a slightly different route home!

Since this is to be our last post of 2013 we wish everyone a very Happy Christmas and an excellent New Year.

FOLLOWING THE RIVER BRADFORD

FROM ALPORT TO BRADFORD DALE

We've missed a week again - PCs fault, or rather the boat's fault (long story) - and we seem to have missed the best of the weather. Last week it was glorious, this week considerably less so.

Undaunted by the heavy overnight rain, plummeting temperatures and brisk wind we nevertheless continue as planned and meet at Alport. Sadly we don't have Mollie with us this week as PC couldn't get Mollie's house door open (dodgy key), something that will have to be rectified.

There's ample room for us in the tiny car park and we spend a little time layering up. It really is that cold, so out come hats and gloves too. We also have a quick nip from one of the secret flasks (Ramblers Restorative - mmm). Once we're ready we head down the road to have a look at the river running under the road bridge. On our last visit the river was so high that the arch of the bridge was barely visible and the water had risen up the stonework, but now it is running smooth and clear, the water flowing freely under the arch and the stones of the riverbed stand out as though they are under glass.

We cross over to the other side and set off down the path at the side of the telephone box. Looking back we have a perfect view of the bridge from this side, so PC fetches out her camera. A few paces further along and we are greeted by some brown fleeced sheep in the adjacent field, either very friendly or curious, so again it is time for a photo-stop. (I've tried really hard to find the breed - but do you know how many different breeds of sheep there are in the UK? And there doesn't seem to be a way of searching for a 'small brown sheep', so many apologies for lack of information, but if I manage to identify them at a later date, I'll add it.)(It could be a Balwen Welsh Mountain, or a Zwartbles.)

This path is wide and easy to walk. It follows the small river through fields which are, fortunately, free of livestock (cows). We pass the occasional dog walker then come to a very picturesque

stone bridge next to a high, overhanging wall of limestone rock, just below the village of Bradford. Beneath the rock is a conveniently placed bench, a perfect spot for anyone needing a rest of just wanting to sit and enjoy the view. But we press on, following the river towards Youlgreave.

The path bends and brings us to a stile - bit of a squeeze with the added obstacle of a small gate too - next to a bridge. We're then out onto the road (it may be Mawstone Lane, or Hopping Lane, or something different!) to admire the bridge before crossing over and following the Limestone Way along the side of the River Bradford.

This is an extremely lovely spot; there's a small clapper bridge over the river leading to a bench should anyone want to take advantage of it, but we go through the gate and follow the river.

We're in a wide expanse of a field which slopes steeply up to the village on our right with the clear river on our left. And the sun is starting to shine! We amble along until we come to a small weir just as the sun strikes it, so out comes the camera again to catch the sunlight sparkling on the water. And to our surprise, at the top side of the weir is a pool for swimming! It must be wonderful to take a dip here in the summer, luxuriating in the cool, fresh water although we suspect it may become rather crowded.

We continue, pause to admire the hefty sheep (these are far from cute and look as though they would be capable of inflicting some damage if they took a dislike to you) then pass through another gate before consulting the map. A local gentleman walking his dog stops for a few minutes to chat and confirms that we're on the right route. We let him go on ahead as we're enjoying a steady pace.

The River Bradford is on our right now with a wooded hillside on our left. The river appears to be running slower here, and is wider, but is still crystal clear. The river weed is a lush, vivid green and there are ducks and moorhens dabbling in the water.


Upstream there are a number of weirs and wide ponds, presumably for fishing, but today there are only birds fishing.

Because of the flat terrain we are able to walk a long way in a short time, and we soon reach another bridge crossing the river. Again we study the map, and although the path across is one of our options we decide that, for now, we'll carry on and hunt out somewhere for lunch. Naturally all the benches, of which there are so many downstream, have gone.

We reach a wide river crossing with an intriguing stone enclosure on the left. Naturally we explore but despite looking around we can't quite work out what it is supposed to be. There appears to be a number of 'rooms' or 'pens' and at the far side a stream of water runs into the enclosure then underneath it. We wonder if it is an old sheep-wash, or possibly the remains of an old mill (a mill for Middleton was mentioned in the Doomsday Book), but non the wiser we continue on our way. (Sorry, but again my research hasn't managed to come up with anything conclusive.)

At the far side of the river crossing we have an option; straight up along a very wide but gloomy path which we assumes climbs to Middleton village, or a narrower path running along the side of the water again. We choose the latter, and the path proves worthwhile. The river, narrower and less obvious, runs in a reed and weed bed which appears to be wide and marshy. A spring gurgles out from the rocks to our right and we soon reach a very rickety bridge over the small river.

Bravely PC goes first, and I follow. We push our way along a narrow path with overgrown vegetation on either side of us, then ascend some metal steps and turn right at the top. A short walk takes us into Rowlow Dale (not named on the OS map) and we find a perfect limestone rock on which to sit and have lunch. The sun is out and we have a lovely view of the very narrow river (or is it just a stream now?) and its extremely old clapper bridge.

We start off with a sample from PC's secret flask (cointreau) before settling down to our coffee, sandwiches and bun. The bun is PC's choice today and a concession to healthy eating; apple tarts with custard and fresh cream. Admittedly, there isn't a great deal of apple, but the custard and cream are suitably calorific.

Whilst enjoying our second coffee a damsel fly (or is it a dragon fly) hovers around then lands on PC's leg. Luckily it stays still for long enough to have its photograph taken before scooting off again.

We pack up ready to set off back, but first amble down to the small bridge to have a look. Carved into it are words from a poem, and we puzzle over it for a while, struggling to make much sense of it. However, a bit of research has led me to this website: www.sitesofmeaning.org.uk which catalogues a number of boundary and marker stones erected as a Millennium Project throughout the Middleton and Smerrill area, detailing the inscriptions and giving some detail. This small bridge is 06: Clapper Bridge on the site's menu, and the whole site is worth looking at.

We retrace our steps and head back the way we came, negotiating the metal steps (spotting some fossils in the rock as we descend) and the rickety, narrow bridge. Eventually we reach the larger stone bridge over the river and discover another inscription, this time by Wordsworth. Again, have a look at the above site which gives details. The bridge is 03: Bradford Bridge. (Note how low the river is in the photographs.)

Crossing the bridge we climb upwards a little way then take a fork in the path, turning right so that we are once again walking along the side of the river. This bank is clearly not so frequently used but it provides a good contrast to our outward walk.

There is a small clearing where a large tree has come down, only an upended stump and a few wayward branches remain, but the stump is cloaked in a massive growth of fungi. We clamber up the slope for a closer look and for PC to photograph it. There is more fungi growing nearby, it looks like a strange white goo but on closer inspection it resembles the curds of a cauliflower. Odd!

We continue and soon the path begins to ascend the slope towards Youlgreave. We've never been to this village before and as we emerge from the woods into the sunshine it looks at its most attractive. Even the allotments are neat and tidy.

We walk down the village street, then debate on whether to continue towards the church where we will turn right towards the river, or turn right immediately (King Street) which we think leads to a footpath. After meandering down the narrow lane (barely wide enough for a bicycle and reminiscent of Robin Hoods Bay) we push our way onto a path through some seriously overgrown weeds. Squeezing through a narrow gate we come to the footpath on a steep downwards slope.

This is a seriously bad idea, but we have reached the point of no return. Clearly this path is rarely used, despite the waymarkers, and we soon discover why. It is slippery, steep and loose underfoot. Negotiating it is hazardous, as PC finds out when she sits down involuntarily!

Eventually, though, we manage to zig-zag our way to the bottom and vow never to return even if the path at the riverside is flooded and we have to wade! Fortunately, that isn't put to the test, the path is not underwater but it is virtually non-existant and we push our way along until we reach safe ground again.

We're back on track now, retracing our outward journey along the first part of dale beneath Youlgreave where the hefty sheep are eyeing us suspiciously. At the end we cross the tarmac road, go through the narrow stile with the gate and take the path to the bridge next to the limestone rock and bench.

Here we cross the river and walk up the narrow, grassy lane. At the top we turn right onto a footpath which crosses some fields high above the river. We have some lovely views of the dale beneath us and the trees, some of which are just starting to take on their bright autumn colouring.

The last field we cross has three disinterested horses dozing in it then we're out onto the main road. It's only a short walk here down to the cars where we sit, minus hats and gloves, in the afternoon sunshine.

It has been a lovely walk, and a treat to visit somewhere different. It hasn't been too challenging, and PC's foot seems to be on the mend. In the end the weather wasn't too bad, a couple of very brief showers of rain soon cleared and we've been left with a superb autumn afternoon.

We keep our fingers crossed as we plan to see some more autumn colour on our next walk.

SERIOUSLY SOGGY AROUND CASTLETON

A Wet Return After An Unexpectedly Long Break

It feels as though it's been forever since we last managed to get out on a walk (or posted on the blog), and it's been a grim few weeks. My father died in May, which would have been hard to deal with at any time, but his death fell right in the middle of school exams which made it particularly difficult for everyone. Now, however, despite still having a lot of sorting out to do we seem to be returning to something like normal. The exams are over (GCSEs for mine, A levels for PC's - and NO, they are NOT getting easier despite the media/political whinging) and we are all breathing a huge collective sigh of relief. Of course, now we have to wait for results day...

But for today we are determined to chill, and given the amount of rain falling on the drive to Castleton, chill is exactly what we will experience.

After a brief stop in the car park (excellent loos but coach loads of school trippers) we drive up towards Winnats Pass and the side of road parking spaces (free in the week, charges bank holidays and weekends). Then it's time to don all our wet weather gear. Admittedly we are currently in a 'window' without rain, but we're not expecting it to last. We debate on whether to take the brolly or not, PC has become a huge fan of it as a lunch shelter (she doesn't have to carry it!) so I relent and drag it out of the boot. Then we're off. Freedom!

This is a walk we've done before, but never in this direction, and we've chosen it because of its relative ease and time constraints. We set off up towards Winnats Pass, grateful that there is a pavement and surprised at how many cars are emerging from the mist on the pass. We haven't gone far before it starts to rain - the 'window' was obviously a small one.

The low cloud clinging to the tops of the cliffs looming over the pass stops looking pretty and begins to turn ominous, a long smothering blanket of grey. By the time we've passed the entrance to Speedwell Cavern the rain has turned torrential and the umbrella goes up. This could be distinctly unpleasant, but we're distracted by the amount we have to talk about and catch up on.

It's hard going today, a sign that we've lost a great amount of our fitness with the enforced break, but the weather (and balancing a big umbrella that we're both trying to stay under) isn't helping. We're actually walking in the misty murk now so even if the rain does stop (no promises there) we're still going to get a soaking. Good job we have all our wet weather gear.
Not much point stopping to admire the view - there isn't one - but we do have to be careful as we pick our way over the limestone outcrops near the cattle grid at the top of the pass, they are extremely slick and slippery in the wet.

By the time we reach Winnats Head Farm we can no long pretend that it's misty. This is fog, and not very pleasant when we need to walk a section on the road.

We follow the left hand main road then go through the gate on the left on the path signed Rowter Farm. We're into serious fog now, and are only aware of a farm truck coming towards us because we can hear it, it's invisible until it's almost on top of us. The rain has eased a little, not that it's much consolation. The sheep are looking as soggy as we feel. At least the track is straight and easy to walk on.

We pass the farm on our left (can't see it through the fog!) and continue straight on through a gate. There's a field full of buttercups on our right, and swallows skimming over the surface, but all we can see ahead is fog. We continue, we can't go wrong, surely. 


When you can't see where you're going everything seems to take so much longer and we begin to doubt that we're on the right path. Then, ahead, we see cows. I spot them first (my natural aversion to them obviously means that I am attuned to their presence) and we're a few yards further along before PC sees them. Fortunately they're behind a wall and gate, but PC stops to photo them. There haven't been many photo opportunities today.

Still the path seems unfamiliar, though we reason that we can't have gone wrong. After skirting some seriously large puddles we wrestle with another gate and find the left hand turning that we wanted. Of course we were on the right path, we knew it all along!

We wonder if this bit will be tricky - thick fog and a barren field to cross. But fortunately the wide, grassy path is clear enough (it is part of the Limestone Way) and we're able to progress confidently, brolly held aloft. The path slopes down and we're on the familiar, one-way track leading down towards Cave Dale and Castleton.

It's lunch time, but the rain is hammering (nothing new) and we would like somewhere a little sheltered before we stop to eat. Before we start the descent into Cave Dale we clamber up to our left and find ourselves a comfortable(ish) ledge to sit on with rocks behind us. After much juggling we manage to position the brolly over us and fetch out our supplies.

Naturally we start off with a warming nip from the Secret Flask. It's a mixture of Ramblers and Cointreau (long story) and is very good, just what we need to brighten up a chilly day. We follow this with the first cup of coffee (looks strange but tastes fine) then the sandwiches. Talk about working up an appetite. It's PCs turn to supply the buns and she's brought wonderful, gooey, rich chocolate muffins. They are excellent, and we'd almost forgotten the joys of eating special buns out in the open. What a treat. We finish off with another coffee, and despite the continuing rain we pack up to go, conscious of having to be early.

The walk down Cave Dale is interesting. The path, slippery limestone at the best of times, has deteriorated into a river bed, something we'd suspected might happen, so we're having to be especially careful. The Dale does look wonderfully atmospheric, though, with Peveril Castle perched high on the rocks like an avenging eagle.

It doesn't take us too long to reach the bottom of the Dale, which is always dark and gloomy, then we're out into Castleton.

A group of schoolchildren are huddled around the cross, soggy papers in hand, looking very miserable. We march straight past heading back to the cars.

Naturally, as we head back the rain eases, and by the time we reach the cars the sun is even making an effort to emerge. Meanwhile we're steaming as the temperature increases. (It doesn't last, by the time we're driving home it's pouring again.)

Despite the weather it has been a good, much needed, therapeutic walk. Fingers crossed we'll be out again, somewhere, next week.

And if you were wondering where Mollie is, she's off on her holidays with her owners. She'll be back soon.