We're back, but it has been a bit hit and miss (more miss, to be honest) and we're tackling this at our second attempt.
We meet in the layby at Alport, the pretty village close to Youlgreave, and as we pull on our layers we catch up with all the news since before the New Year. It seems forever since we were last out!
The weather has been pretty grim these last few weeks so we are hoping that we haven't picked a walk that is too muddy. We have been on part of the route in the past, but much of it is completely new to us so we don't really know what to expect.
We set off down the road and cross to post a letter before taking some pictures of the river, then take the path at the side of the red telephone box. The path is broad, and firm, but there are some large puddles.
In a field adjacent to the path are two very noisy, bossy geese who seem to be less than pleased to see us. PC chats to them as she tries to persuade them to pose for a photo (yes, honest) but I eye them warily and am glad that we aren't any closer.
The path follows the course of the River Lathkill (or is it now the River Bradford?) and we pause to admire the attractive packhorse bridge
over the water before we press on. The path leads us to the road in Youlgreave at the start of Bradford Dale (and another attractive bridge)
but instead of crossing over the road and entering the Dale we turn left and walk up the road a little way. There is an old stone building in the field to our left, and just beyond it a signpost pointing across the field for the Limestone Way. This is the one we want.
To say that the Limestone Way is one of the major Derbyshire walking routes we are quite surprised to find that the path across this field, and subsequent ones, is not heavily used. It is well signed, though, which is an advantage when crossing fairly featureless fields.
We do have a couple of sections of mud and waterlogged ground to tip-toe through, and when we come to Bleakley Dike we find that one of the rickety stepping stones to the stile-gate is completely submerged beneath fast flowing water. Good boots a necessity!
There is an uphill stretch here, but with excellent views behind to the village of Youlgreave if you care to pause and look. Ahead of us is a ploughed field which we are not particularly looking forward to crossing.
In the end the ploughed field isn't quite as bad as we had feared - the farmer has 'reinstated' the path but it is still extremely claggy underfoot and at the far end we have to spend a while remove excess mud (and weight) from our boots.
Around the next bend in the path we have yet another wet and muddy section to negotiate, and a choice of routes. The Limestone Way turns sharply left to enter an unnamed wood, whereas the other path takes us through Harthill Moor Farm and adjacent to Castle Ring, and ancient earthwork. We decide to follow the Limestone Way so avoiding the farm, even though we don't have Mollie with us today.
The wood is quite dank and it is chillier here, not that we would call it particularly warm in the open. Still, we spy some rocks which look inviting enough to sit and have a drink (a nip of Ramblers to keep the chill at bay) and a huge triple chocolate chunk cookie to keep up going until lunchtime.
It is too cold to sit for very long so we continue on the path and reach a minor road where we decide to turn right, continuing on the Limestone Way, since we are well ahead of time. There is a farmer muck-spreading in a field at the top of the lane, but fortunately not in the field we plan to cross.
We spot what looks like some standing stones away to our left, and also have our first glance of the very impressive Robin Hood's Stride which we are now keen to visit.
We debate as we walk as to whether the stones are standing stones, a stone circle or the remains of a farm building, but we check the map and after a while they come into clearer view and they are, without doubt, a very impressive stone circle.
There are four stones standing (the highest in Derbyshire) but are called the Nine Stones Close. We don't walk up to them as there is no Public Footpath to them, and with the farmer busy close by we decide not to risk being caught trespassing, though they may be worth a visit at another time.
Ahead of us the most impressive rocky outcrop called Robin Hood's Stride (also known as Mock Beggar's Mansion or Hall) with its two pinnacles (Weasel Pinnacle and Inaccessible Pinnacle).
Naturally we clamber up and around it, and finally sit on the rocks close by with a wonderful view of the outcrop while we have lunch.
The sandwiches are typically boring but we have a small bottle of vino to help them down (long story, but not a celebration) and after the wine we have ginger muffins which are suitably gingery and sticky. The warming coffee is more than welcome after our lunch, and with the sun shining it is very tempting to stay for while, but we must press on.
We return to the path which is gouged deep between the Stride and the area which leads to Cratcliffe Crags. It is still the Limestone Way and is probably the route of the old Portway. We plan to return another day to explore the side near Cratcliffe Crags, and to find the Hermit Cave there.
The path is taking us downhill towards the road (B5056) and the worst part of this walk. We have no alternative but to walk along the roadside until we reach our return path, and there are no pavements or even grass verges to use as escape route on what turns out to be a very fast and quite busy road. Also, the sun has gone in casting us into gloom. Not pleasant, but at least we don't have Mollie with us as she hates traffic.
We pass the turning the Birchover and continue until we spot the Bridleway sign across the road, and go onto the path gratefully. It is very muddy across this field but we are pleased that we don't have to paddle across Ivy Bar Brook since there is a double bridle-gate and bridge.
From here it is uphill, and slippery. Where the path narrows it is extremely churned up by cyclists and it is hard to keep our footing. Clearly no horses have used this track for a while as the overhanging hedgerows wouldn't allow mounted riders (or anything other than small ponies) to pass safely.
At the top we come out at a gate and cross a large sheep field with clear lines of old ridge and furrow ploughing. Sadly the lack of sun means there aren't any shadows cast so our photos come out flat rather than interesting. Shame.
The farmer has very kindly put large, round sheep feeders right in the middle of the path, and many little sheepy feet have managed to turn the area around them into a quagmire. Lovely! Still, we soon reach the gate onto the road and cross over another field towards Lower Greenfields. We pass a few old caravans that seem to have been disused for some time, then once on a firm track we pass a small, neat caravan site. What an attractive holiday spot.
The lane continues gently downhill and soon we find ourselves (as planned - always a relief) on the track next to the river on the way back to Alport. A short stroll now (and an absence of geese this time) and we are back at the cars.
The weather has turned dark and gloomy, it will undoubtedly rain later, but we have succeeded in having a very good walk and opened up new possibilities for us in the future.
THREE EDGES: WHITE EDGE, CURBAR EDGE AND FROGGATT EDGE
This is a seriously cold day with high winds and a smattering of snow on the high ground. First thing this morning everything was white; snow coupled with a heavy frost, but underfoot it was wet and slushy. Not exactly perfect walking conditions, but we are nothing if not hardy!
We meet up next to the Grouse Inn, as we did on our last walk, but our route is to be different. We layer up - plenty of layers given the driving wind - then cross the road and head for the path which cuts across the field opposite the Inn. It takes us a while to get from one side of the field to the other, nothing to do with the conditions but more to do with numerous texts from daughter relaying the outcome of a (thankfully good) school report.
With that little drama out of the way we cross over a makeshift bridge of stone slabs, then go through a gate and walk up what appears to be a semi-permanent stream-bed. We're in sparse birch woodland here, but the path is clear. When we reach the wooden signpost we turn right then almost immediately left, clambering uphill over some gritstone boulders.
As we gain height we get some excellent views all around, but we are already finding quite deep pockets of snow and the muddy bogs are covered with ice. When we come level with White Edge there is another useful wooden signpost, and we turn right onto the edge.
We can really feel the cold wind here. It is extremely bitter, and the edge is very exposed. To our left is the broad, relatively flat expanse of the aptly named Big Moor, to our right the edge drops away to Stoke Flat.
A short distance along the edge we come to a sculpture, a gritstone inscribed 'cube'. We've seen similar before on a walk (see: Moors, Reservoirs and Stone Circles - posted 8.3.12), and they are the result of the endeavours of Arts In The Peak: see www.companionstones.org.uk
This looks as though it should turn (like a Rubik's Cube), and the photographs on the above website seem to support this, but the stone is weathered and a little mossy and we couldn't move it! And, as with most of the other stones we have encountered, we struggle to make sense of the poem inscribed on it.
We pass the stone and continue along the edge, trying our hardest to avoid as much of the mud as possible, but that is a hard job. The path starts to rise and we start to feel some snow blowing on the wind; the hard kind of snow with ambitions to become hail! Fortunately it doesn't last long and we - at the point of no return - are relieved.
Although it is still too early for lunch we decide to stop for a 'snack'; ie a nip from the secret flask and some home-made Florentines. We descend from the ridge to find a suitable boulder to sit on, and as we are preparing our elevenses PC spots a pair of deer. They are large, but quite hard to see until they start to move. They don't seem unduly worried about people, until some walkers on the ridge with a loose dog come along. The dog scents or sees the deer and sets off after them. The deer run, but don't put too much effort into it, obviously conserving energy. They are right to do so, too. The dog soon gives up and the deer saunter away.
We enjoy our nip from the flask (home-made Ramblers Restorative) with a ginger Florentine, then some Cointreau from the second flask with a glace fruit Florentine. Mmm, they bring a glow to the cold day.
Back up on the ridge we head towards the trig point, surrounded by snow, then continue onwards and slowly downwards as the path grazes the corner of a field and gives us a choice. Ultimately we want to go right towards Curbar Edge, but it seems like a good time to stop for lunch as the sun is making a feeble, half-hearted effort to emerge, so we go straight on looking for somewhere suitable to settle down to eat.
There are fewer comfortable looking boulders here, but there is a lot of dry, dead bracken which should make an adequate cushion for us out of the wind. We choose a likely spot and start the long process of remove rucksacks, cameras etc prior to settling down. That's when PC sees it. Right where she would have sat down is a snake, an adder, basking in the weak sunlight. It is sluggish with the cold (thank goodness) and about 2 foot long! Urgh. As we watch it slowly burrows back into the bracken and within five minutes it is completely hidden from sight.
Our mind is made up. No sitting in the bracken. We'll wait until we can find an adder-free spot for lunch.
We go down the hill, cross over the extremely muddy patches near Sandyford Brook, then climb gently upwards towards the road and the car park at Curbar Gap. Before we go through the gate to the car park we spot another Companion Stone with a more understandable poem.
We cross the car park, climb up the few steps and head on the path towards the gate which gives access to Curbar Edge. Before we reach it, though, there are some picnic tables and a bench. Perfect. We settle down for lunch with a good view, and no chance of sitting on a snake.
It seems to have become colder, there is no hint of sunshine now and the wind speed seems to have increased. We hurry up with our lunch, and even the very good fresh cream eclairs are gobbled rather than savoured. After eating we huddle over our coffee cups trying to leech some warmth from the hot brew, but forgo a second cup in favour of getting moving.
Once on Curbar Edge we press on. I don't think I have ever been so cold on a walk before, despite wearing five layers, as well as scarf, hat and two pairs of gloves. The wind really has managed to get through everything.
There are more people here on this edge, but they are all walking pretty swiftly to keep warm. We keep pausing for PC to take photos, and once we start to descend it starts to feel better.
As we come up toward some trees we notice some stones poking out of the ground, and they appear to be in a roughly circular shape. Sure enough, checking with the OS map, this is a stone circle. We're both surprised that we have never seen it before, it is very close to the path, but maybe it has been covered with bracken before. Anyway, we have to stop to look at it and take some pictures. See: www.megalithic.co.uk (Stoke Flat - Froggatt) for more details and photos.
Leaving the circle behind us we continue on the path and through a gate. The path gets extremely muddy in places but with trees growing all around it is, at least, sheltered from the wind and we feel much more comfortable.
It doesn't take us long to reach the main A625, but we cross over and down the steep steps which firstly cross over a stream then take us up into Hay Wood where we were last week. From here it is only a short walk across the fields and back to the cars next to Grouse Inn.
Despite the bitter cold, and the close encounter with the snake, it has been a very enjoyable walk. We may have a few interruptions to our walks over the next few weeks, but we'll definitely get out when we can.
