TAKING IN LONGSHAW AND PADLEY

We're keeping to roughly the same area this week, but parking up on the road that runs from Grindleford to Fox House at a roadside space next to the stile leading to Burbage Brook at Lawrence Field. There is a bus stop across the road, and a barn which may or may not be a shelter.

Once again we have failed to make any detailed plans, other than where to park and meet, so we're pretty much making it up as we go along.

Mollie doesn't like the road very much, some of the traffic really whizzes past, so we make haste to get our gear on and cross the road. The gate is next to the bus stop and we walk up the slight slope to the barn. A couple of ladies are trying to get into it; we don't bother.

We're on a path in Longshaw and despite the confusion of paths on the ground and on the map we find we are successfully heading towards the pond (or Lake as it is grandly termed) at the top of Granby Wood. An information point shows an old photo of WW1 soldiers boating on the lake. As PC pointed out, they wouldn't be rowing very far! The lake is built up, it is higher than the path, but that doesn't seem to bother the ducks.

Instead of following the path around which leads to the house we veer off on the right hand path, which isn't actually visible on the ground, and head through the sparse plantation on the springy grass. Before long we reach a 'proper' path and follow that a little way, forking right when we have an option.

Soon we are in woods again and quite high up. We can see Padley below us. It is rather muddy in the woods, hardly surprising given the amount of rain we have had, so when it looks as though our way is down on a very slippery slope we look around for an alternative. Luckily we see a gate to our left in a stone wall and we head towards it. It brings us out above Oak's Wood on some rough scrub. There are some soggy patches, and a fast running stream to traverse. 

We look around for somewhere to stop that isn't heavily waterlogged, and in the end we manage to find a large boulder. Out comes the coffee and sandwiches and the buns. Oh yes, the buns. PC's turn to choose them today and she has excelled herself. They are fresh cream chocolate muffins - with spiced orange. Delicious and worth every calorie!

There is a light rain falling, the kind of drizzle that you barely notice until you are soaked through, so we pack up, recross the stream and head downhill. This looks as though it could be a bit precarious with all the mud, so Mollie is let off the lead so she doesn't drag me downhill faster than I want to travel.

Eventually we reach the bottom (we have done this in reverse some time ago and it was a lot easier going uphill than down) and the road, the last few 'steps' being a bit on the steep side. We're at Nether Padley now (more or less) and a short distance from Grindleford railway station.

We cross the road with care, cars can take you by surprise on here, and go down the walkway towards the station. No trains just now, we pass the station platforms and reach Burbage Brook. We choose to cross rather than take the footpath up the eastern side, and admire the garden and properties on the other side.

From here the route is familiar. We turn right up the rough road, at the top of which an extremely impressive dwelling is being constructed. We go through the gate at the top and are back in woods.

The first bit is uphill but it eventually levels off. The water below us is running fast and there is an impressive waterfall running into the brook. It is surprising how quickly we reach the top of the rise and the boulder strewn moorland of Lawrence Field. We are tempted to linger, the sun is making a brief appearance for the first time today, but we decide to return to the cars instead.

It appears we made a good choice, once settled back at the cars the soft rain that has been on and off all day decides to come down a little heavier. 

We're missing next week, but hopeful that we'll be able to make it the week after.

GROUSE INN, RIVER DERWENT AND FROGGATT

This morning we are greeted by fog, in some places thick, in others thicker, but undeterred we set off from our respective starting points to meet at the Grouse Inn which sits on the A625 above Grindleford. By the time we meet up some of the fog is beginning to disperse, so we are hopeful of a clear day.

The lay-by is pretty full of cars but none of the walkers seem to be going our way. We head over the stile at the side of the Inn and cross over the fields and into Hay Wood, admiring the lingering mist as we go. For some reason we always have to puzzle our way in the wood, but mutually decide to set off downhill on a very muddy path. Then a brief retreat to try to find PC's lost lens cap for her camera, and for a change we are in luck, then retrace our steps again.

The wood is very attractive even though many of the leaves have already fallen, and we continue downhill ignoring the many paths leading off left and right. As we come to a high stone wall on our right we meet a dog walker and stop for a chat before continuing  down towards Grindleford. A gate and a rough surfaced path later and we reach the main road in Grindleford village. We turn left and just before the bridge we go left again through another gate and across a field of sheep.

We are surprised that this low-lying field isn't boggy after recent rainfall, but pleased nonetheless. The small stream is easily crossed and we head uphill into Horse Hay Coppice. We are now following part of the Derwent Valley Heritage Way.

There are a number of lovely streams running down the hillside, one with a calm reflective pool, so we reflect a while with a nip from the secret flask. My home-made Ramblers again!

This part of the walk is very straight forward and easy underfoot. We eventually pass out of the wood and go through a couple of fields (one with cows, but they are not close) then through a potentially very tight crush - depending on your weight - and onto a narrow track. A little way along a tractor and trailer is parked almost blocking the track, the farmer is cutting back some overgrowth, but we manage to get past.

We are now in the pretty village of Froggatt, still following the Way, and admiring some of the gardens. We cross over the bridge and keep on the track that runs at the side of the River Derwent. We recall that further along there is a secluded bench, and when we find it we settle down for lunch.

We have a good view of the larger bridge over the Derwent, and are surprised how many heavy lorries use it. We start off with coffee, then sandwiches - always a non-event - then the buns which, today, are Spiced Apple Fresh Cream Muffins. Not too stodgy, they go down very well followed by a second coffee.

We sit and chat for a while, and as we are talking we see a disturbance in the water. To our delight we are able to watch a water vole swimming along, it surfaces, sits on a semi-submerged branch for a few moments, then slides into the water to swim away. Magical.

Time to go, though, and we are aware of the nights drawing in, so we continue on our path, climb up the slope then over the bridge, descending by the steps at the opposite side of the river.

Now we have a gentle amble along the river bank back to Froggatt village. Here we decide to take a small road uphill, turn left, then right then straight on until we see a footpath on our left. Once again we are in the woods.

This part of the woods seems less well used, probably mainly by dog walkers, but it is lovely, especially with the low light slanting through the branches. A way along we see some rocks, which appear natural, but have an inscription carved into them relating to the dedication of 16 acres of Froggatt Wood. It is almost hidden and it is difficult to take a good photograph.

In places the path along here is fairly boggy, and we have to make a few minor detours, but after a while we come up to some 'shelters' and an outside camp area complete with branches for seats and a fire pit. It looks wonderful!

We descend now and are soon retracing our steps down towards Grindleford. We make our way back up to the woods, and the uphill climb certainly makes us warm. Mainly due to good luck rather than good judgement we end up on the right path and come out exactly where we entered the woods this morning. Only a short stretch now across the fields to the cars, with ours being the only two left.

As we ready to leave we notice that the sunlight is giving the surrounding moors and trees a spectacular burnished glow. They look amazing, their brilliance keeping up for the most of the journey home, a lovely end to a good day.

GRINDLEFORD AND THE RIVER DERWENT

The weather couldn't be more different this week from last. Instead of sunshine with pockets of crispy snow we have fog, drizzle and a bitterly cold wind to contend with. And PC's unerring ability to lose her way!

We eventually meet up in the lay-by near The Grouse Inn on the A625 (Froggatt to Fox House) after PC has enjoyed a scenic drive-around in the area courtesy of her SatNav! The fog is pretty widespread and has been for some days, and though there is a cutting wind blowing it isn't actually clearing the murk.

It doesn't take us long to layer up then head up towards the pub where there is a stile into the adjoining field. We've been here in spring/summer and the field is a beautiful meadow, but today it is covered with a layer of farm-muck. Fortunately it has been down a while so there it isn't actually unpleasant, but it was probably a bit grim when it was first spread.

We cross the fields diagonally then pass through a gate onto a path at the top of Hay Wood. After getting our bearings (we've been here before and have found the multitude of paths criss-crossing the wood quite confusing) we head more or less straight ahead on a narrow path that starts to go downhill almost immediately. It's fairly muddy and we're careful not to slip. The trees surrounding us are mainly birch; tall, thin and spindly.

At the bottom of the path there is a rough crossroads and again we go straight on and continue descending. It is very pleasant in the woods, we're out of the wind and the fog seems to be clinging to the tree canopy rather than filtering down to us, but it is very popular. We've already seen more people out walking in the first half hour - mainly dog walkers - than we tend to see on a whole day's outing.

The downward path continues until it is following a wide stream, then we go through a gate and onto a lane with a little more substance to it. At the first house PC spots a clump of snowdrops at the entrance to the driveway, so goes up to photograph them. Once satisfied we continue between a number of cottages and a moss-covered drystone wall.


At the bottom of the lane we come to the village's 18th Century 3-arch bridge crossing the River Derwent, but rather than cross over we take the gate into the adjacent flat meadow and follow the footpath across it, which is part of the Derwent Valley Heritage Way. We cross over small but deep stream, a bit muddy on the far side, then follow a path to a gate where, on the other side, we are in woods again.

We don't walk far before we cross over yet another stream and pause at some boulders on the far side to sample one of my treats - not a nip from the secret flask today, but I've some of my Blue Russian (home-made Blueberry Vodka). I've tried it before, but I wanted PC's opinion, and I'm pleased to say that she considered it a success!

After the break we continue through the woods, then across a few fields (thankfully livestock-free) before coming to a gate and an extremely narrow crush-stile. Folk must have been a lot thinner in the days when these were first erected!

We follow the lane (Spooner Lane) to the bottom of Froggatt where the cottages cluster close to the river. We ignore Froggatt Bridge for now and go through a wooden gate when leads us to a path at the side of the river. We haven't been walking for long before we pause for PC to take a photograph of the bridge, and as she is preparing her camera I spot something on the other bank. A water vole! Ratty himself from Wind in the Willows. We are entranced, watching the well camouflaged wee beastie as it scuttles up and down the river bank, eventually slipping into the water and swimming gracefully downstream a little way. It is such a joy to see this rare and elusive creature, and we are seriously tempted to stay watching it for far longer than necessary, but eventually we move on.

Further along we find swathes of snowdrops at the side of the path, and PC is in her element! They look wonderful, and despite being white they do brighten up the monochrome day.

The path continues at the side of the river to New Bridge near Calver Sough, we climb up the stone steps onto the road, cross over the river then take the path along the opposite bank of the Derwent.

It is very different here, with marsh and wet-lands and a newt pond. We haven't gone far before we find a suitably placed bench where we sit down for lunch. We have a lovely view of the river and bridge as we eat our sandwiches, drink the coffee and enjoy the buns. This week we have fresh cream doughnuts with enough jam in them to dribble out stickily.

We know we are lingering for too long, so as soon as we have eaten we pack up (rucksacks lighter) and continue along the path. It is a broader path here and more open. We soon pass the spot where Ratty had been exploring, but no sign of the vole now, then we're at Froggatt Bridge.

Once across the bridge we retrace our way, meeting a four-month collie pup out with its owner. Mollie and the pup - young and (not too) old - sniff and make friends. We walk along Spooner Lane, renegotiate the narrow crush then cross the fields and into the woods. Soon we come to a right hand footpath which will give us some height, and the path higher in the wood is well marked on the map so we're feeling very confident.

We should have known better! After climbing the clear path turns right, which is fine, but then begins to deteriorate into a series of muddy quagmires. We manage to keep following the route though, the path appearing and disappearing from time to time with us making a few detours to avoid  the mire.

Arriving at a fence and wall we cross the stile (if it can be called that) then follow the barely visible path at the other side. It skirts a wall, then we cross a stream via a very high stone culvert/bridge before continuing until the path peters out. We press on, encounter a vast area of swollen water/mud and are forced to pick our way the best we can, holding onto overhanging branches and using partially submerged stones so we don't sink without a trace.

Eventually, after crossing another stream, we come to a broken section of wall with a clear path at the far side. We take the path which, naturally, disappears into nothing. We've come too far to turn back so we take our bearings, decide that we know what we're doing and where we're heading, so push on uphill through the trees and brambles.

Our endeavours are rewarded when we eventually reach a clear path - one marked on the map! As we reach it PC spots three deer amongst the trees ahead and to the right of us. They aren't far from the road, and they are moving away from us, but they do seem quite large. We weren't even aware that there were any deer around here.

On this path the walking is easy, but it is starting to rain. We continue until we come to the ragged crossroads we encountered this morning, so we turn uphill but then take an easier path that leads us past what was possibly an old quarry before passing a small car park and finishing at the gateway out of the woods. Then it is a short stroll across the fields and back to the cars.

The fog still hasn't lifted, but we aren't too bothered. It has been a good day, we've been pretty well sheltered and we have seen some interesting wildlife.

STEADILY AROUND EYAM MOOR

We're back. The prolonged (wet) summer break is over and we have emerged at the other end of it blinking mole-like in the unaccustomed sunshine.

Before we start the blog, though, a quick CONGRATULATIONS to our daughters. This exam season saw PC's youngest taking her A levels and mine taking her GCSEs. After all the stress, tension and angst (and that was just us) their hard work has paid off with both girls getting the results they needed. PC's daughter is off to her top-choice university to follow her chosen course, and mine has secured her place at a first rate 6th form to study for A levels. Well done girls - and maybe we can relax a bit now!

Back to the walk. Our enthusiasm to return is high, but we're a bit stumped as PC is still having trouble with her foot. Turns out it is tendinitis (painful) so we need to tailor our walk towards softer ground (shouldn't be too problematical given the amount of rain we've had) and something relatively short. She hasn't been walking at all over the summer whereas I did a little hiking in Scotland earlier on, but nothing more recent. So, after some careful thought we decided on a circuit of Eyam Moor.

We meet up on Sir William Hill Road where the tarmac gives way to rubble. It's a steep drive up from Grindleford but the views are worth it, and I have plenty of time to enjoy the views as PC is uncharacteristically late. She's had trouble locking the door at Mollie's house so ends up having to leave Mollie at home on guard after taking her for a brief consolation walk. Which means that today we're dogless.

Naturally we spend a while catching up with news and gossip as we put on our walking boots and shoulder our rucksacks. Mine's new. Or rather, it was new over a year ago but I have only just got around to swapping all the stuff from my old rucksack to this one. It's a little larger so there's more room for all my 'essentials', but unfortunately it has fewer pockets. Not sure if it will be an entirely suitable replacement, time will tell (but I haven't thrown away the old one, just in case).

The first obstacle is the stone stile over the wall (signed for Abney and Stoke Ford). It needs longer legs than ours, and an agility that we seem to have misplaced, but fortunately there's no audience so we can huff, puff and grunt as we hoist ourselves over. The next part of the route is steady, level and grassy underfoot. PC isn't having any problems so far, which is encouraging.

There's plenty of evidence of the wet summer, even up here. Boggy areas cross the track and new ways around them have been trodden down by earlier walkers. No doubt these will soon become favoured way.

The sunshine is glorious even though there is a brisk breeze, and we're spending so much time talking that PC almost forgets to take photos of the wide ranging views.

To our left is the more prominent point of the moor (marked only on the map as Rock Basin) where there are large boulders of grit stone, so we detour along a narrow track at the side of what appears to be a small quarry and push through the heather to the  boulders. We find a suitable flattish rock and remove the rucksacks. No, we haven't walked far yet but we have plenty of time, PCs foot to consider and we haven't exactly got miles to travel. I have a quick look higher up on the moor as PC makes herself comfortable, but the lure of elevenses is too much so I return at a jog.


As I pour out the coffee PC brings out a couple of chocolate chip cookies. Wow! They are huge, the chocolate chips are more like chunks and the cookie dough is obviously only there to hold as many chunks together as possible. Needless to say, they are wonderful and go down extremely well.

We linger rather a long time before repacking our belongings and retracing our steps to the small quarry where we rejoin the path. We're going downhill now and the path is heavily eroded in places, we can imagine a small river running down here during heavy rainfall. Eventually, though, it swings left, levels off and becomes easy underfoot again.

At the stile ahead there are a multitude of paths to choose from, but we have our route planned and turn left, slightly uphill and skirting the wall. The sun is hot now and we have some shelter from the breeze, and soon we are walking on the cushioned ground beneath the canopy of trees that make up Gotherage Plantation.

The path keeps to the edge of the trees then dog-legs through Big Moor Plantation to come out (over yet another stile) on the track beneath Stanage House. The sheep in the field are blissfully unaware of us as we meander up the middle of the track (softer underfoot for PC) and continue to yet another stile which, this time, brings us onto a very rough crossroads. Here we turn left with PC having to walk on the verge as the track is rubbly and uneven.

It isn't long before we reach the Bretton-Eyam road and within a few paces were on the western end of the Sir William Hill drovers road again - and we haven't even stopped for lunch (although we haven't walked off the cookies yet).

The track is very rough and the verges aren't exactly even, so we take it steady. We can see the huge phone mast ahead on our right (excellent mobile coverage should we need it) and as we reach the summit of the track we can pinpoint the trig point on our right. The verges are covered in late summer flowers (scabious and harebells) which are proving to be a magnet for the bees.


Down the track and we turn left to go over the wall (yes, another stile) and back onto the moor where we eventually find some comfortable tussocky grass to sit on. We're aren't particularly hungry (did I mention that they were HUGE cookies?) but undaunted we eat our sandwiches after a fortifying nip from PC's secret flask of cointreau - mine having gone AWOL sometime during the holidays. Then out come the buns - extra chocolaty chocolate chip muffins - and we finish off with coffee. Certainly a Death By Chocolate day today.

It would be good to sit here for longer but we have a timetable to stick to, so we set off back just as another couple of walker, plus dogs, pass us on the path. We hang back to let them get over the stile first (no point us humiliating ourselves in front of strangers, much better to let them provide us with the amusement) then we amble down Sir William Hill road towards the cars.

Our timing is perfect. We have just enough time to plan our next walk (another 2 week break first, though) before we have to leave. PC declares that her foot is feeling fine so we are keeping our fingers crossed that she may be on the mend.

We've been really lucky with the weather today; is it too much to hope that our next walk will be equally bright?

HATHERSAGE AND PADLEY

First of all we'd like to introduce you to Mollie.

Mollie, as you can see, is an absolutely gorgeous border collie whose hobbies include walking and chasing sticks. She belongs to a friend of PC and we are to be her occasional 'dog walkers', although we think Mollie sees herself as a 'human walker' instead.

For this week's walk we meet at the Surprise View Car Park ready to do battle with the cursed Pay and Display machine that only takes card payments. It's special trick for today is issuing tickets completely devoid of details. Good one.

It is bitterly cold and there is a scattering of snow about, so we fortify ourselves before setting off. PC was concerned that we'd had the last of the Ramblers on our last walk so had brought some Cointreau (a bottle!) to fill up the secret flask. However, the flask had already been miraculously refilled (can't walk without the Ramblers) so we have a tot of the Cointreau anyway - well, no point in bringing it all this way and not trying it! And yes, it was good and suitably warming on this chilly day.

We head off across the car park and discover that Mollie isn't too used to being on the lead. She's a real puller, but once onto the path leading to Millstone Edge we are able to let her onto a longer lead. Later we'll be able to let her run which will hopefully tire her a bit.

On reaching the Edge we see the snow on the distant hills perfectly lit on this bright, sunny day - a good deal better than on our last walk up here. It's Candlemass today and, apparently, if the day is fine we're in for more winter. So it seems that we're pretty much doomed.

Mollie takes up a lot of our attention as we're walking along the Edge. It's a long time since we've had a dog for company and we're enjoying the novelty.

The path dips down and we take a left turn, walking carefully through the snow and ice. The ground, where it is bare of snow, is frozen solid and we're planting our feet carefully so we don't slip. It would be a hard landing. Partway down the slope and before we reach the road we cross the stile in the fence line to our left. Mollie watches us and we wonder how she'll take to it, but we needn't have worried. Patting the top rail of the stile and saying 'come on' has her leaping over with wonderful agility. Only wish we could do the same.

We make our way downhill through the brittle, brown bracken until we reach the path at the bottom running alongside a stone wall. A short way along and we find the gate leading into Whim Wood. At last Mollie can have a run and she teaches us to throw sticks for her - again, and again, and again. We play along, all that bending and stretching must be doing us some good.

At the exit to the wood it's back onto the lead for Mollie and a few paces up the road before we cross to the footpath leading towards Hathersage and Scraperlow Farmhouse (a Grade II listed building looking like a mini fortress). Again Mollie astounds us as she bounds up onto the stile, takes a few paw-steps on the adjacent stone wall, then lands with an 'easy-peasy' expression on the correct side. We take a little longer.

The first part of the path is the driveway to Scraperlow, but where the drive sweeps right we continue straight ahead and soon come to the woods by High Lees. We meet one dog walker coming to us from the opposite direction, but so far that's the only other walker we've seen all day.

On this path we're glad that it is so cold as the rutted ground shows what it would be like if the mud wasn't frozen solid. It wouldn't be particularly inviting. The woods, however, are pleasant and we must make an effort to come here at a more attractive time of year.

The path leads us onto a little lane running behind houses that front onto the main A6187 out of Hathersage, and there are some snowdrops trying to flower although it's probably a little shaded for them here.

We're soon onto the road and heading down to Hathersage and their conveniently placed conveniences. It isn't very busy today, the cold must be keeping everyone indoors, now that a few clouds have started to gather the great outdoors isn't as enticing.

Soon we're on our way again, and we cross the road before turning left on the B6001 towards Grindleford. There isn't much traffic and it isn't long before we're under the railway bridge and taking the left hand footpath which is part of the Derwent Valley Heritage Way. This runs alongside a very cold and bleak looking River Derwent.

It's flat, easy walking and we soon come to a gate being guarded by two bay ponies. They totally ignore us as we pass through the adjacent walkers' gate, but a black and white Shetland pony comes barrelling over to us immediately hoping, no doubt, to be fed. When it realises that we aren't going to be forthcoming with treats it turns its back and saunters off. Two other, grey, ponies a few yards further on don't even bother to lift their heads to look at us.

This is a long, wide field that slopes steeply up to the left. There is a small flock of sheep up there and we suspect they may be some kind of rare breed, but our knowledge is limited, to say the least. At the end of the field we go through a new-looking gate and onto a woodland path (Coppice Wood). There is a faint glimmer of sunlight but we can't find anywhere to sit for lunch so we carry on up the well-walked left hand path leading uphill and, eventually, over the railway line. Once away from the railway bridge we find a perfectly sized boulder to sit on for lunch.

By this time we have come to the conclusion that Mollie is a little bewildered. She's plainly used to walks that go 'there and back again' rather than just keep going, as well as walks that don't last so long. And as for sitting down to eat, she obviously thinks we've lost the plot completely. However she dutifully (gratefully) lays down as we break out the sandwiches and coffee and warm ourselves up with a nip from the secret flask. The Ramblers goes down very well as a few fairy-sized flakes of snow begin to fall. We ignore them and hope they'll go away.

After coffee, sandwiches and Ramblers the buns come out. They are our 'summer buns', not because we eat them in summer (although we do, given the chance) but because they are full of summer. Fresh strawberry tarts with creme anglaise. These are from M&S and we compare them with Tesco's Finest. Well, M&S tarts have more strawberries and a creamier creme anglaise with harder pastry. Tesco have a custardier creme anglaise but crumblier pastry. All in all, they're both exceptionally good, so no complaints.

Since Mollie wants nothing to eat or drink we pack up and head on up to the path leading towards Padley Chapel. As we approach we berate ourselves, yet again, for not coming to visit the interior when it is open and once again we put it on our To Do list.

We walk past the Chapel, and someone enjoying their lunch on the steps, and head down towards Grindleford, turning left onto the Padley Wood path before reaching Grindleford Station. It suddenly seems to be a long, steep haul up here and we remind ourselves why it is a bad idea to park our cars at the highest point of our round-walks as we always have to finish on an uphill stretch when we're beginning to tire. Not that Mollie seems tired. Although she's walking sedately on the lead now as soon as we're in the woods we let her off and she wants to play 'fetch the stick' again.

We always seem to be in these woods in winter, or at cold times of year, but at least it gives us the opportunity to see the wonderful twisted shapes of branches and trees growing around boulders. At the top of the wood a group are pitching a tent! and have slung a zip wire across the water. Rather them than us.

It isn't far to go now and we're trudging up the deep, hollowed pathway towards the road. Mollie is tired but seems to sense that we're closing in on our starting point, so when we finally cross the road and reach our cars she leaps into the back of PCs car at great speed and without any prompting.

We've done the walk in pretty good time and have really enjoyed having our new friend with us. But we are left wondering what the Candlemass prediction is for a day that starts fine but ends cloudy with tiny flurries of snow. Has winter gone, or is the worst yet to come?