Autumn Colour at Chatsworth

We are back after a long break, and choose something familiar and comforting. Chatsworth is always good and a visit in autumn should give us the lovely hues of this season.

We go past the garden centre and onto the familiar path leading upwards at Calton Lees. The stream is running fast and there is a nip in the air, but hardly any people about. Which is as we like it.

As soon as we climb we get the wonderful views across the estate towards Beeley and the Rabbit Warren on the horizon.

Up past the few houses here we are greeted by an enthusiastic young hound bounding out of a driveway, and who deems it her job to escort us part of the way. At the gate into the next field we dither momentarily to decide our route, and the hound disappears. We are clearly not energetic enough for her.

Through the gate we skirt left, then climb up at the side of a drystone wall. Ahead of us is a large pond and we walk in that general direction. There are certainly a few more people up here.

We follow the path around and past the pond, then the track to a lane. We have done this in the past, in reverse, but it was a while ago. On the tarmac lane we turn right and are heading in the general direction of Edensor, and are surprised at how much ground we have covered in so little time.

The fields are full of sheep, and we spot a small group of antlered male deer, but they aren't too keen to stand still for us. And they are quite some distance away.

There are some rather splendid bracket fungi on an old tree stump though.

The track we are on turns into the lane through Edensor which, as always, looks very picturesque. However, we are getting hungry and need somewhere to sit for lunch.

Luckily, once out of the tricksy gates and across the main road through Chatsworth we find a bench and with our backs against a tree we enjoy our sandwiches, buns (fresh cream apple turnovers - bursting with cream) and coffee.

Then it is onward again. We drop down to the bridge and cross over the road to walk along the riverside with the House on our left.

It looks as though they are getting ready for a market, or a fireworks event as there are plenty of stalls being put up in the gardens.

It's a pleasing stroll next to the river as it meanders back towards the car park. Only a short upward haul, and we are back in pretty swift time. The break from walking has cleearly done us no harm at all.

CHATSWORTH, EDENSOR AND ABOVE BAKEWELL

After the week's birthday celebrations (PC is another year older and my daughter turned 18) we really need to get out to walk off the excess cake and wine. We've not done very well with planning these last few walks, and this is no exception. We wait until we meet in the car park at Calton Lees (no man in the hut mid-week at this time of year, so we don't have to pay for parking) before we plan our route.

We set off out of the car park and through the park, following the line of the road towards Edensor. In the park there are herds of deer, far enough away not to be troubled by a couple of walkers.

The House looks quite splendid today, the Emperor fountain is running and the mist that has been clinging to the valleys and hillsides is still there giving everything an ethereal glow. Sadly the picture doesn't translate well to photographs as it makes everything seem a little murky.

When we reach Edensor we eventually go through the person gate which is actually hinged centrally, top and bottom, so that it swings around. Quite a surprise!

Edensor is a very pretty village, relocated to its present site by the 6th Duke of Devonshire and with each cottage built in a different style. We walk up the main street, passing the church on our left hand side and admiring the cottages. They must look lovely in Spring and Summer when all the gardens are in flower.

At the top of the street the road gradually peters out and turns into a broad track which is accessible to traffic (evidenced by the deep ruts at various places along its length). It is a steady uphill walk, and we pause to enjoy some chocolate and admire the view over a field gate.

At the top of the track it rejoins a narrow tarmac road which eventually winds its way down to Bakewell. We walk along the road, crest the hill and can see the distant hills and edges bathed in late autumn light. The road dips and eventually we come to a left hand path. It is a bit muddy around the gate but we go over the stile and follow the track ahead.

Another stile and we are in a field of sheep. We head uphill towards a small stand of trees (Moatless Plantation) where there is a conveniently placed inviting bench facing down to Bakewell. We walk across the grass to it and settle down.

We haven't been sat long - in fact, we're only just starting on our nip of Ramblers - when we notice PC is playing host to a cluster of spiders (the collective noun for a group of spiders is cluster or clutter). They are only small and at first we think she must have disturbed a sac but then, when the sun shines on the grass in front of us we can see thousands of criss-crossed webs amongst the green. They are incredibly beautiful but so fine that it proves impossible to photo them. The small spiders have probably hitched a lift, or drifted to us on the breeze. We don't mind them at all, and carry on with our lunch.

Coffee, sandwiches for me, leftovers for PC, then the buns which are puff pastry mince pies with added fresh cream. Maybe a bit early for Christmas, but they do taste nice. We follow with our second coffee then prepare to leave.

The path goes downhill and heads towards a pond which, once we are on a lower level, we can no longer see. We almost walk off course when we see a glint of water and spot the footpath sign on a narrow gate. We go through the gate, cross a small field and go through a second gate which takes us onto the broad expanse of Calton Pastures.

This is a steady, easy stroll and we are very soon on the path above Calton Houses. Before we go through the gate and down the lane next to the houses we spend a little time trying to get some good photos of a tree which has a broken trunk but is still sprouting. Sadly the light isn't brilliant.

We walk down the lane past the houses then gradually descending down to Calton Lees village. The sun has gone now, and it has turned very chilly. Also the light is fading even though it doesn't seem to be particularly late.

Not far from the village and we are back at the car park, pleased that we have had such a good day out. The weather has stayed in our favour, but we're wondering how long that will last.

CHATSWORTH'S WINTER WONDERLAND

A SIMPLE STROLL AROUND A SNOWY SCENE

We're back in action. After being hampered by holidays and illness we are staging a comeback, and aren't about to be put off by the presence of a few inches of snow. However, given that some roads still have a lethal amount of ice on their untreated surfaces we are opting for the safe option of Chatsworth.

We pull into Baslow car park only to find it covered in ice and with a lot of cars arriving for an organised walk. At PC's suggestion we move out and decide to try the main house car park at Chatsworth, hopefully avoiding the high probability of one of the very worried looking drivers running into us!

Fortunately we arrive at Chatsworth on clear roads with gritted access. Even the car park has been ploughed, and since the little man isn't in his kiosk to collect his £3 we don't have to pay.

It takes us a while to gear up, pulling on sufficient layers to keep out the chill and wet.

We amble up towards the Stables area, find it virtually empty apart from some workmen at the toilets and ducks on the frozen water feature. Then we take one of the well-cleared paths down the car park towards the main house entrance and park.

There are plenty of photo opportunities today, the whole landscape is transformed and the structure of Capability Brown's design really seems to come to the fore.

The River Derwent winding along the front of the House is iron grey providing stark contrast to the white blanket of snow punctuated by the near-black silhouettes of the trees.

We pause to have a look at Queen Mary's Bower, constructed in the 1550s by Bess of Hardwick and reputedly named for Mary Queen of Scots who was briefly held prisoner at Chatsworth in 1569 with the Bower being one of her favourite spots.

We come to the bridge where two Japanese tourists are taking dozens of photographs. We take a couple before moving on. In the distance we spot a herd of deer but they are too far away to see clearly.

At this point we have to make a decision. We don't actually have a plan and we need to have some kind of idea of where we are going to walk. It doesn't take us long to decide to 'make it up as we go along' so we head off uphill towards the deer, the snow deep and pristine apart from a few animal tracks.

As we trudge higher - walking in deep snow isn't the easiest surface - we are getting better views behind us to the house and the majestic Emperor Fountain which is reaching straight up into the wind-free sky.

We circle behind the deer, who keep a cautious distance, and find a bench - snow covered but with a good view. PC suggests we stop for a coffee, I readily agree. We have to clear the bench first then, of course, we have a nip from one of the secret flasks (which aren't really so secret after all), and PC gets to hers first, so it's Cointreau. Lovely and orangey and warming on such a cold day. The coffee is very welcome too, but by the time we've finished it we realise that it is past noon, so we quickly eat our sandwiches but save the buns for later.

Leaving the bench behind - ready cleared for the next walker wanting to pause - we head towards Edensor village. The slope down to it looks very inviting, if potentially lethal, and a couple are sledging. What a shame we don't have a sledge, it looks such fun!

When we arrive at the snow covered path we turn left back towards the house, then deviate through the trees, cross the road and start walking through what we consider to be the main part of the park in front of the house. Ahead are another herd of deer and as PC waits with Mollie I decide to try to get a little closer to them.

It is hard to stay hidden in snow and the deer watch me suspiciously as I slowly walk towards them - hiding behind conveniently placed trees doesn't fool them one bit. But I do manage to get quite close even though I am being constantly watched. They obviously decide that I'm not much of a threat, armed only with a rucksack and a camera.

Once the deer have been snapped we return to our amble. We're keeping higher on the hill and soon find another convenient bench (there are quite a few dotted around) and the lure of buns becomes too great to ignore.

On the bench we fetch out the fresh cream eclairs which are, as PC momentously points out, the perfect shape for eating when on a walk. No fiddling, messing or crumbling. Just total, unfussy indulgence. We finish the coffee then set off again towards the Mill. Before we reach it, though, we spot a heron on top of the weir and manage a photo before it flies away.

The Old Corn Mill, built in 1760 and in use until 1950, still has the old rusty remains of its last wheel in situ. Today we can hear, and see, the water rushing through it.

We have a brief detour to the garden centre toilets then set off back, this time keeping to the riverside as we walk. There are a few more walkers out now, and near the river are the sagging remains of snowmen and an igloo built over the last few days by eager and optimistic visitors.

It is very soggy underfoot in places, the snow manages to hide it until you step on the waterlogged surface, but it isn't too bad. By this time, mid-afternoon, it is starting to feel colder as daylight is being leeched out of the sky.

We aren't long, though, before we're walking over the bridge and back up the drive towards the car park. Activity is slowing here as people are heading away and we soon follow them.

It has been a good day; PC can still feel the effects of her virus but the walk has been just enough for her without over-exerting herself, and it has been worth the effort to see the snow in the park.

 

A GENTLE WALK AROUND CHATSWORTH

Well, we've done it. We've achieved the near impossible - we've actually chosen the one fine day this summer. No rain, hardly any clouds and the slightest possibility of a sun tan (OK, not much chance there but we are forever hopeful). The only downside to the day is that PC has injured her foot so we're keeping the walk steady (hence the choice being Chatsworth) and away from hard ground. At least that isn't too difficult given the amount of rain we've had recently.

We meet up in Calton Lees car park and duly pay the nice man in the kiosk who informs us cheerily that the rain is due back tomorrow and that we need to make the most of today. We don't need telling twice.

Mollie is back from her holidays and happy to be out of the car with the prospect of a good walk in front of her. We load our rucksacks with gear (coffee, buns and a waterproof coat - you never know when it might be needed) then debate on a route. We choose to leave the car park in the direction of the House but once we're through the gate at the side of the cattle grid we head uphill on the grass rather than crossing the road then walking down to the river.

We're so busy catching up on gossip that we hardly notice how steep the hill is. The narrow track is easy to follow though, as it is well worn by sheep. In parts it's quite boggy despite being on a sharp slope so we manage muddy boots, but at least PC is getting the soft ground she needs.

This is such easy strolling that we have loads of time to pause and admire the (sunny) scenery but even with plenty of looking around we're going too fast. What we need is somewhere to sit a while, and as we come up to the turn in the path which leads through the woods there are three benches lined up with their backs to the wall, facing the view. We head for the far one, it has a back rest, but it also has a huge puddle at its foot so we choose the second one instead and settle down with the secret flask. Raspberry Gin again today, a genuine taste of summer on a genuine summers day. It couldn't be better.

It would be easy to linger here for most of the day but we decide we ought to press on so we go through the gate and onto the wooded track leading gently uphill. 

 Mollie can run off the lead for a short distance, and she immediately finds a rock to play with before darting off to greet some other walkers. This can be a bit of a problem with Mollie. She's a beautiful, friendly dog who, unfortunately, treats obedience as optional and since she doesn't belong to us she doesn't seem to sense any permanence in our relationship. Hence, if she sees someone interesting she's off to investigate, possibly in the misplaced hope that it could be her owners or someone she is more attached to than us. After a quick greeting she's happy enough to return, but not until she's satisfied her curiosity, which is why she's usually kept on the lead. At least today's people were doggy-folk who, coincidentally, do the same as us and take someone else's dog for walks and thought Mollie delightful.

After that it's back on the lead for Mollie as we reach the top of the woods and go through the gate into the field beyond. There are lovely views here as we cross large field on the grassy track, dipping down to the gate near to Calton Houses and the rough track that takes us past them.

At the bottom we go through yet another gate where two small dogs yap ferociously as their owners sit in the sun, and we take a small spur of a track to a bench where we can sit out of yapping distance and eat lunch.

The sun is quite bright now as we have the first cup of coffee followed by sandwiches. Then come out the buns. PC's choice today, and she calls them her end-of-summer Wimbledon buns. Strawberry shortcakes: sweet shortcrust pastry, creme anglaise, juicy strawberries and fresh cream. They are eaten in complete, reverential silence. A second coffee finishes off lunch in a very civilised manner.

Once we've lingered we set off down the slope only to be approached by a couple who need some directions. They have a small card with a route on it, and an unopened OS map, but are wondering if they are on the right track. They aren't. By quite a considerable distance. They thought they were near the Emperor Lake above and behind the House, and were quite surprised that they weren't even on the right side of the river. After a discussion they decide to forgo the visit to the Lake and instead follow the path we've just walked then extend it down to either Edensor or the House. They asked if it was possible to get lost again, and we said no, use the House as a landmark. Easy. But we did wonder.....

We continued on our way down the sloping rough track with PC trying to walk on the grassy verge. There are plenty of people walking up the hill, not surprising given this one, fine day, and we can hear buzzards over to our left even though we can't see them. The stream is full and fast flowing, hardly surprising, and Mollie refuses to have a drink from the stone water trough, choosing to drink out of puddles instead. Typical dog.

At the bottom of the track we come out onto road at Calton Lees village, admire the gardens then pause to study one of the trees at the back of the garden centre which has heavy clusters of palest green papery flowers along its branches. It seems that it is probably the Hop Hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), but whatever it is it has been well worth seeing.

We're back at the car park far too early, so we dump some of our gear into the car and amble down to the river where we sit for a while enjoying the last of the day and watching ducks bobbing about on the fast flowing water.

We don't seem to have had much of a season this year with all kinds things conspiring to erode our walking time, and it's over all too quickly. The summer holidays are upon us but although we'll not be out on the hills together we will try to get some walking in with our families. By the time we meet up again (early September!) the long, stressful wait for exam results for our daughters will be over, and the next few years mapped out for them depending on those results. We're keeping our fingers crossed for them both but feel sure that their hard work will have paid off.

Until we return in September we hope that everyone has a lovely summer.