We seem to have stumbled upon a pocket of murky weather in the midst of fine clear days; typical luck for us!
Today we are revisiting a familiar walk, but in reverse, and park up at the side of the Longstone road at Monsal Head. There is a thin fog all around, not sufficient to block the view entirely but it makes everything a little hazy and damp. Knowing that rain could fall at any time we decide to pull on our waterproofs to be ready.
We set off to the top of Monsal Head then take the left hand path signed Monsale Dale which descends gently through the woods. We pause at the weir then follow the path to the bridge where we cross over.
I have spied cows so am on the alert! However, that doesn't stop us standing by the side of the river to watch the white-chested dippers busy on the water. And to have a nip of my latest concoction - Blackberry Vodka. Very warming!
Overnight rain has made the paths muddy and wet but we are surprised that there are not more people out. It is half term, after all. PC has a (totally justified) rant about people hanging bags of dog poo on the branches of bushes - seriously, what do these misguided idiots think is going to happen? Do they think wardens will follow them around to clean up their mess? Town mentality in a country setting.
Just before we reach the end of the Dale at Lees Bottom we take the right hand path which climbs up out of the valley. It is warm work so we have to remove a layer before continuing. The path is quite steep - we are more used to descending than ascending - and the rain has increased the potential for slipping though we reach the top without mishap.
Here there is a deal of scrub before the path scoots around to the right, so we find ourselves a mound on which to sit and eat lunch. We are pretty sure we have sat here before, though there isn't a great deal of a view.
The sandwiches are unremarkable, the coffee is good but the buns are excellent - fat choux buns stuffed with fresh cream with chocolate swirled on top. Definitely the highlight of the meal.
We experience a brief, unenthusiastic shower of rain (easily ignored) and a visit by a charming Dalmation (it's owner suitably apologetic but the dog wasn't a slobbery pest so it was fine).
Then we hoist ourselves up from our seat and press on. The next obstacle is the high stile over the wall at Brushfield Hough. Normally this wouldn't present a problem but since I have trapped a nerve in my back the height of the step is a significant problem. Eventually, with much grimacing, cursing and gritting of teeth I am over, and PC follows majestically.
We pass through the fields, a gate and then the farmyard of Brushfield Hough before taking the track out of the yard and to the path following the ridge. The rain has cleared the sky so we have a good view of Fin Cop across the valley as well as a good view of the valley itself.
The track is reasonable until we reach a long, wide flooded area. Rather than paddle through - and it would be over our boots - we spy a path in the next field that has been made to avoid this clearly permanent feature.
It's easy walking now, until the long steady downhill which is rubbly and uncomfortable underfoot. However, this soon gives way to a softer surface again, and as we descend to Monsal Viaduct we hear children shouting and the sound of harassed parents. Ah yes, half term.
The viaduct is crammed with people, walkers and cyclists. We have never seen so many people on here at once before. Most seem to be using the tunnels and riding or walking a long stretch of the trail, but we turn left off the bridge and onto the path that leads up to Monsal Head.
Once here there are, again, loads of people and the ice cream van is doing a roaring trade. Well, the weather isn't too bad now, and is isn't too cold so they are clearly making the most of it.
We go back to the cars and plan our next walk, preferably without any very high stiles!
We planned this walk with high hopes of good weather, only to have them dashed as the early morning rain beat on the windows and the wind threatened to gust at dangerous levels high up. So, as we meet up in Edale Car Park we discuss a last minute change of plans. Our original idea of Rushup Edge is dismissed as we study the glowering clouds, and instead we choose a low level circuit instead.
We move from the Edale Car Park and drive a short distance down the valley to Barber Booth, cross the bridge then turn right onto the small, single track road towards Upper Booth. About half way there we find the spacious, free car park, with not another car in sight.
Naturally we put on our waterproofs straight away. Although he rain has stopped for now we it would be too easy to get a soaking.
This is a walk we have done before, so it is relative familiar, but the views are still good and despite our constant chatter of last week we still have gossip to catch up on.
We walk along the road, and at Upper Booth turn into the farm yard, following the path right then left. A curious horse watches us from over the farm gate.
Mollie finds a discarded ball to play with so she is in her element for a while although she does expect us to play with her.
For now she can have a brief spell off the lead, this part of the track is fenced in, but as soon as we reach the next gate she is back on the lead - the ball comes too.
This part of the walk follows the Pennine Way all the way under Broadlee Bank Tor and gives excellent views across the valley of the Great Ridge. We stop for a nip from the flask, then finding a poetical bench we sit a while to eat the first of the buns and have a coffee. Yes, multiple buns today, although they are very small. A small Chelsea Bun each and a cup of coffee has us ready to go.
It is very quick walking today and we are soon walking along the track to Grindsbrook Booth. It is lunch time so we make a decision to head towards Grindsbrook where, hopefully, there will be a suitable stopping spot.
Sure enough, once we have cross the bridge over Grinds Brook and climbed up the other side we see another poetic bench next to a stone barn. The barn provides a perfect back rest and the bench saves us having to sit on the damp floor.
As we eat a couple of troupes of school children pass us, no doubt on their Geography field trips for their GCSEs. Lunch is followed by the remaining buns: a small Belgian bun and - saving the best for last - a cinnamon bun. They may not be large but they are certainly tasty.
With lunch over we are reluctant to head for the road as a way back, so we decide to take the footpath beside the post office and caravan site. Neither of us have been on this before but we find that it is quite clearly marked and easy to follow.
There are a lot of sheep in the various fields that we cross, and some of them look as though they may be rare breeds. We recognise the Jacob sheep, but not the ones that look like woolley brown teddy bears.
Eventually we cross the railway line and the last part of the track leads us into Barber Booth. Once through the hamlet we only have to walk on the road a few paces before we are on the narrow lane towards the cars.
Despite it being a 'make-do' walk today it has turned out to be a very pleasant one. And the rain held off too, which always makes things better.
We have been absent for far too long but nothing in life is simple and we have both been caught up with other things: PC has been away sailing in warmer climes (I am not jealous, honest!) whereas I have been dealing with family health issues which have kept me close to home. But now we are reunited and are raring to get out.
Of course, the long lapse has meant that we are not fully trusting of our fitness so we decide on the simple, but no less pleasant, circuit of Ladybower which eases us into the walking gently whilst giving us ample opportunity to catch up. We have a lot of catching up to do!
We have picked a gorgeous day, one of those special autumn days where the sky is clear and the chilly start soon turns unseasonably warm. The air is full of the ripe scents of pine trees and leaf mould yet the ground is firm underfoot with the only damp coming from a heavy dew rather than rain.
Mollie is delighted to be out again, and we set off walking around the reservoir with little pause for breath - there is so much catching up to do.
We have been here so often that a description is hardly necessary, although PCs lovely photos manage to do justice to the day as well as showing how low the reservoir is.
Suffice to say that we did have our buns, this time they were wonderful white chocolate and raspberry muffins - soft, moist, melt in the mouth and fantastic accompanied by coffee and a view across a sunlit reservoir. Fantastic.
Plenty of people were out, we couldn't blame them, but it did mean that we missed our usual semi-solitude, although to be fair we talked so much that we barely noticed the hoards of ramblers.
We took our time, we paused often to enjoy the views, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. And the great thing is that we should be able to be out walking again next week too.
Third time lucky for this walk which has been planned before but never managed. Today, though, the weather is clear and the forecast good. There is no way that we're not making it up to Alport Castles, despite PC's trepidation.
As usual we meet up in Fairholmes car park, surprised at how many people and cars are already there. Then we realise that for some this is already the start of the Easter holidays; no doubt it will get busier over the next couple of weeks. We have already decided to split the driving and make it a two-car walk, mainly to cut out around 2 miles of tedious road walking, so all the gear plus dog is put into my car and PC sets off first to park up at a small lay by near Birchenlee. Then we carry on in my car to park close to the start of our path to Alport Castles.
We can't believe how good the weather is, the sun is even shining for us although there is a distinct nip in the air. Still, it makes a change not to have to pile on the layers of clothes before setting off. Neither of us bothers with a coat, a first for this year!
Straight away we are through the gate and off the road, crossing the small bridge over the wide but shallow River Westend just before it feeds into the Howden Reservoir. Although there is a level forest track following the river we immediately take the 'high road', climbing up quite steeply through the trees on a well-worn path signposted with one of the old, green signs.
It's a steady climb and we are both feeling very optimistic. We are getting high up with relatively little effort. And we do prefer to get the climbing over with early on in our walks when we are fresh; there is nothing worse than a steep finish when your legs already feel like lead!
In a surprisingly short time we are emerge from the trees onto the open moor and are immediately taken in by the wonderful, far reaching views. This is somewhere we have never been before, despite years of walking around here, so we are making the most of it. As we climb higher, albeit on a softer gradient, we continue to pause to look back and take in the sights. The reservoirs, Howden Edge, Derwent Edge, Crow Stones Edge all gradually pull into view and we can't keep the smiles from our faces as we enjoy it all.
We pass some shooting butts and as the ground starts to level out we become a little suspicious. Surely we aren't near our destination already.
A few hundred yards on and to our absolute amazement we have arrived at Alport Castles. And what a view we have! Absolutely stunning, we had no idea it could be as good as this. Of course, we do have the weather for it (although it is distinctly cold now and we have pulled on coats and scarves) and we take a multitude of photographs. It is only just noon but since there is a small section of dry stone wall simply waiting to be used as a wind-break we decide we may as well make use of it and settle down for an early lunch where we can revel in the views.
A nip of Ramblers from the secret flask gives us a warm, inner glow and that is followed by scalding hot coffee. PC really knows how to heat the coffee! Sandwiches are rapidly consumed then we have the buns. Today, raspberry cheesecakes. They are so yummy that there is little left in the wrapping for Mollie to enjoy. Our second coffee is poured and we allow ourselves to linger as more walkers come up for the view and all but one return the way they have arrived.
We pack up and vacate our places, only for them to be filled by the next couple who walk up to the castles! As we walk around the edge PC notices a bird swooping and diving. We know there are Peregrines and ravens up here (and a bird watching hut), but the bird turns out to be a kestrel, and it is dive-bombing a raven whilst making high-pitched screeching noises. Clearly it isn't happy with the bigger bird being in the vicinity and we watch for a while until all goes quiet. A shame we don't see any Peregrines, nor get a good close up of the raven, but it is still a pretty special experience.
From here is it a steady, almost easy walk across the narrow but distinct moorland path. We pass the path leading down to the Alport Valley and, ultimately the Snake Pass in the distance, but continue on ahead. We must keep stopping, though, to admire the views ahead, behind and all around us. This is a walk we will definitely be doing again!
Part of the path becomes a little boggy and we are glad there have been a few dry days of late, and a little way on the path has been flagged, no doubt to reduce the effects of erosion on the peaty moor.
This is a lovely stroll, and although the sun has gone in and the wind is still chilly, it is pleasant, easy walking. There are sheep, birds and us. By now we can see no more walkers which is a treat on such a bright day.
This is undoubtedly the easiest section of the walk with its almost imperceptible downhill slant. We pass by Pasture Tor and Bellhag Tor which we have walked to in the past from the opposite direction, but today we barely notice them.
Soon, though (too soon!) we are dipping down more rapidly, have the choice between a ladder stile or a gate (we choose the gate) then are walking through rough sheep pasture, descending all the time until we hop over another stile and walk down to the lane leading to Lockerbrook Farm. We see our first lamb here, but it quickly disappears from sight with its ewe as we turn left onto the track.
This is our final stretch of the walk, a long bridleway that can be a little rough underfoot in places. As it passes into pine woodland the fresh enticing scent of the trees is all around us, a once smelled never forgotten scent. Eventually the path descends more steeply then curves sharply before reaching the road.
We're here, back on the road next to Derwent reservoir, and it hasn't taken us anything like the amount of time we expected it to. PC's car is in the lay-by waiting for us, so we load it up and drive the two miles to my car. As I swap gear around two men walk up to the vehicle in front of mine carrying bags of litter. They have clearly been up on the moors, and been cleaning up other people's mess as they go. They deserve a lot of credit for doing that, it is a shame so many people think it is OK just to drop their rubbish anywhere they choose.
Still, it is time to go, and for a while as well. Not only does Easter interrupt our walking but PC is off sailing again. With good luck and a fair degree of determination I will try to do some walking on my own, hopefully with a greater degree of success than I managed last year.
But for now, we have managed to finish on a wonderful walk which will keep us going for a while.
We really aren't having the best of luck with our planned walk. Postponed from last week (because of PC's poorly car, now better) we were hoping to do it today, but no such luck. The area has been in the grip of murky smog for some time now and it still hasn't cleared, so no point climbing up high or exposing ourselves to moorland when seeing more than a few yards ahead is all we can hope for. So, another change of plan.
First of all, though, I have to go and buy a new pair of walking socks (forgotten mine) and PC has to buy herself a sandwich (forgotten the food!). Fortunately the little shop at Fairholmes is suitably stocked.
We debate for a little while on how to do the walk, the complete circuit of the Howden and Derwent reservoirs is quite a long one and the road walking can be tiresome, so we decide to cheat a little bit. Everything is loaded into my car (rucksacks, waterproofs, dog) and, leaving PC's car in the small dam car park we drive in my car to a small parking spot at the old 'Tin Town' site. This is where the workers who worked on the dams lived and a small information board shows photographs and gives some details.
The weather may be pretty grim but at least under the trees the fog is a bit thinner, although we are hard pressed to see across the water to the far side. We walk along the road feeling quite smug that we have been able to cut out some of the tedious walking.
We are getting closer to the Howden Dam wall when a car stops at the side of us. Apparently a sheep has been attacked by two terriers and the occupants of the car have stopped to chase the dogs off, but are worried about the sheep. We discuss briefly what the options are and eventually direct them to Fairholmes as the warden there will undoubtedly know who the sheep belongs to. We, meanwhile, will keep our eyes open for the injured sheep and any stray dogs.
It doesn't take long to reach the sheep, it is on the opposite side of the fence and although it looks a little stunned it doesn't seem injured. There is no sign of any dogs other than Mollie who is happily walking on her lead.
Unable to do anything else, and feeling that the sheep is probably just shocked and will recover, we continue our walk. At the dam wall we see the water tumbling over the edge giving the sound of a constant waterfall.
Past the dam we continue on our way with the murk parting in places to give us a glimpse of a view, but nothing too spectacular. There are a few cars driving along the road today, but they don't seem to be stopping at the far end as they are soon driving past us in the opposite direction.
We pass the sharp bend in the road with the path leading up to Alport and continue slogging on. It isn't the best of stretches of road, especially without any view to liven things up.
Before long, though, we are on the last leg of the tarmac road and a car pulls up. Yes, it is the same people as before. The news is that the warden has phoned the farmer, but that the sheep was moving around when they last saw it.
We press on to the turning circle and nab the bench through the gate. We're hungry and although it isn't lunchtime yet we decide to have a snack. A warmer of Cointreau first from PC's secret flask, then a choice. Birthday buns (yes, I'm 21 again) - three lovely cupcakes, one yellow, one pink and one chocolate. I choose the pink one, PC goes for the yellow and, yes, we share the chocolate one (well, we weren't going to give it to Mollie, were we?) Followed by a cup of coffee (gingerbread latte as a treat) we feel suitably refreshed and ready for the next leg of the walk.
Now we are off the tarmac it feels so much better, even if the weather hasn't improved. In time we reach the bridge and our turning point, but a good photograph is out of the question even though PC tries.
Then we are on the way back on the rugged track. There are always fewer walkers on this side of the reservoir although it does attract the cyclists who like to do the circuit. Today, though, we only meet a couple.
We are surprised at how soon we reach the Howden Dam again, this time from the 'other side', and it sort of creeps up on us as we don't see the towers until the last moment. There is a bench here, but it isn't terribly inviting so we decide to press on to find somewhere else for late lunch.
We find another bench, eventually, near Abbey Bank, and settle down for lunch. PC brings out a celebratory bottle of plonk (lovely) and no sooner is it poured than a hoard of walkers arrive, seemingly intent on joining us. Eventually their leader arrives and urges them on a way, much to our relief.
The wine goes down very well and is followed by PC's bought sandwich and my salad. (Trying to be good today, and failing). Then come out more buns from PC's rucksack. They are superb, and I am glad I only had a salad! The remaining coffee has stayed warm in the flask so finishes off a good meal. Of course, there is now the temptation to snooze and let it digest.
Once we are sure the hoard of walkers has gone we set off again at a more leisurely pace. Clear, simple walking on a broad track offers no excitement and few distractions given that the sky has barely cleared, although we are just able to see my car parked in the trees on the far bank.
Within a short space of time we are on the final stretch, descending the steps at the side of Derwent's wall, crossing the grass in front then climbing again up to PC's car. We all pile in, and a short drive later I am deposited at my car and readying for the journey home.
It has been a good walk, and it always feels a challenge to circuit the dams. We know we sometimes cover greater distances but maybe that the flat unforgiving surface underfoot is what makes it so tiring.
We plan our next walk (again) and hope it will be third time lucky.
