THE RESERVOIRS AND ALPORT CASTLES

A bit of a trek this week because the road beyond Fairholmes is closed (with a big enough sign to see) so we can't do a 2 car walk (cuts out a good 2 or 3 miles of road walking) but we are psyched up for Alport Castles and nothing will stop us.

What is surprising - no, shocking - is the level of the reservoirs. We cannot recall ever seeing them so low with the Derwent branch of Ladybower reduced to a small meandering river. The muddy reservoir bottom is green with new growth. Worrying.

It's a lovely day so there are a lot of people about, but once we get past the dam we start to lose people. Soon it is, more or less, just us and a few lumber lorries.

Despite it being a bit of trudge along the road it is still lovely to be out, enjoying the views and catching up.

We are closing in to the western tip of Howden reservoir when a couple walking towards us announce that we can't carry on because the road is closed! Yes, we know, but we're going over the top we tell them. The couple carry on back along the road towards Fairholmes, clearly not interested in an alternative.

We check the lumber maps fastened to the gate just to make sure we will be away from the logging operations, then set off again off-road. The path up to Alport Castles starts off pretty steeply - time to remove a jacket or two.

We come out on the moors and the views are superb, and get better as we climb. We (or rather I) spend a bit of time getting overenthusiastic with the geology, but PC is hungry so we head on uphill. We don't like stopping to eat until the climb is over - it always seems harder walking uphill after lunch!

Then we make it, the superb views of the Castles in front of us. We settle down where the ground has conveniently slipped and made us a 'bench' and we enjoy lunch and coffee and wonderful chocolate cream scones (yes, sound awful, taste scrumptious) and an amazing view. A couple more walkers are about, but not enough to disturb the peace.

We spend a while here, it is worth staying as long as possible, then we set off again over the gently undulating hill top and heading back towards the reservoirs.

It is a long walk, but an easy one, and once we reach the Hollowford track we know we don't have far to go. 

Oft trod ground under our feet we take the familiar route alongside the woods then down the bridleway that brings us out next to the cattlegrid. Only a short amble at the side of the much diminished reservoir and we are back at the cars. A lot of others have gone but it is still a beautiful late afternoon, and the last before the clocks change. We are so pleased to have made the most of day.

Happy New Year 2018

We start a New Year with a visit to an old friend. Yes, back to Derwent to try to ease away a few of the accumulated pounds that Christmas brings. We neither are feeling terribly active, so plump for a familiar walk that will take little effort, mentally or physically. But we will do it in reverse, for a smidge more interest.

Our usual car parking spot is still thankfully free of parking meters, but we wonder how long for as they seem to be creeping alongside the reservoirs at a rate of knots. No doubt by summer there will be no free parking at all.

It's pleasantly mild (ish) for the time of year and there are quite a few people about considering it is mid week. Still, we set off with high hopes and a spring in our step. It is so good to be out.

The dam is overflowing - not too much but enough to make it look rather attractive rather than scary. And it is scary when the water comes thundering over in a white wall of sheer energy and power.

We take the steep path up the side and emerge onto the track, which we follow and give Mollie the chance to be off the lead for a while.

As usual, it is quieter at this side of the reservoirs with all the people clustering around Fairholmes. We carry on until we find the steep path up to our right - did I say we were taking it easy today?

Quite muddy at the bottom, and climbing rapidly it is a bit of a pull (and a paddle with the overflowing stream) but we are getting lovely views behind us.

It is worth pausing to look back from time to time, for the views and to have a breather. Too much Christmas pud! The distant clouds look quite ominous though.

We reach the 4-way footpath sign and turn right. It's relatively level now - we are quite high up, and as we cross the moor we are alone. This, we remind ourselves, is what it is all about.

Over the stile at the top and we start looking for our lunch spot. It's fairly bleak up here, but there is a stone wall and after a bit of scouting we find a couple of large flat stones and, with our backs to the wall and our faces to the view, we settle down for lunch.

Plans of dieting are thrown to the four winds when PC produces two homemade apple turnovers (made by her daughter) and they are superb. Mollie is hopeful, but unsuccessful. She must satisfy herself with dog biscuits!

It is quite chilly sat here, despite our wind shelter, so as soon as we have finished eating we move on.

It is flat and a little boggy here, and we meet the only two other walkers this high up, two similarly aged women. Great minds, and all that.

The views range as far as Lost Lad and Mam Tor in a 180 degree sweep, and for a brief spell the sun comes out.

The moors are lit up looking golden and inviting, but the photos don't show how cold it has actually become.

The descent down towards the reservoirs gives us more good views.

But once we get close to the trees the views disappear and we are on a slightly muddy track making our way to the narrow road around the side of Ladybower.

By the time we reach the bottom the winter sun is already dropping rapidly, the clouds are amassing and the temperature is starting to fall. We have, however, managed to have a dry and extremely good first walk of the New Year.

DAMPLY UP AND OVER DERWENT

The vague plan of hiking up to Lost Lad today is scuppered by the weather, too much intermittent fine rain and low cloud along with patchy fog. But all is not lost, even if the Lad is, and there is always somewhere to walk around Derwent.

We park in our usual spot, and notice as we drive down that a lot of the smaller car parks now have the dreaded parking meters, though not ours, or not yet! A quick walk down to the centre at Fairholmes and we discover that all facilities are closed as there is work being done higher up the dams which has cut all the power. Ah well, onward.

We cross under the dam wall and head along the far side reservoir.

The blossom is starting to come out on a few of the trees, soon the branches won't be so bare.

This is a pleasant easy lane to walk on, and although there are usually quite a few people doing the circuit of the dam, today we are pretty much alone. The weather certainly has a lot to answer for.

Look for the left hand path that will take us uphill, and we clambler over the stile and onto the track. It starts off steadily, but after a patch of gloopy mud we are climbing. It's a rather lovely, if steep, lane but one thing it does do is encourage us to pause to admire the views (and catch our breath).

Despite having no leaves the trees look superb, their structure seen with greater clarity.

The views more or less in the direction of Lost Lad look as though it might be a bit clearer up there.

But there is general murk everywhere.

We reach the top of the lane and go through the gate next to the wonderfully situated farmhouse. Then another short stretch of uphill (with a fortifying nip from the secret flask to give us encouragement) and we come to some lovely views, and a stone wall to sit against to have lunch. 

Today is my 'birthday' walk, so as well as coffee and sandwiches, it is treat time! A small bottle of fizz, mini chocolate pots, and a gloriously large slab of carrot cake (my absolute favourite) make for a very decadent and much appreciated picnic.

As usual after such a lovely feast the temptation is to linger (is a post-lunch snooze in order?) but it is rather chilly so we pack up and set off again across the top of the moor.

There are wonderful views all around, including a good one of the Lad in the distance.

We pass a group of walkers up here, coming from the oppposite direction. It's quite unusual to see many folk up here, and even rarer to see a group.

The incline here is pretty negligible, and as soon as we reach the top we start the slow decent, with Derwent reservoir gleaming greyly in the distance.

We keep the steady descent until we come to the point where the path becomes steep - and the rain arrives in earnest. Deep ruts and runnels, along with loose stones and slick ground mean we have to be cautious, but we soom manage to arrive at the bottom wall and the gate through to the reservoir track.

PC takes a photo just to remind us of the not-so-well signed path that we'll be taking when we next decide to try for Lost Lad.

Naturally, by the time we are on our way back the rain has almost stopped, so we are pretty much dry when we get back to the cars. Hopefully we'll get to walk up to the Lad soon.

Taking the High Road at Derwent

A fairly grim day today with overcast skies and the promise of rain. So much for summer weather!

We had decided on Derwent, it is pretty much our fail-safe walking area and even on such a drippy day we knew we would find somewhere good to go.

What did surprise us when we arrived in the Fair Holmes car park was the number of cars and the amount of people. But, of course, it's the summer holidays and the Peak District is definitely on the tourist map - something we tend to forget with it being on our doorstep.

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We take the path at the side of the reservoir after moving away from the main car park. The trees are in full leaf and it would undoubtedly be dull even if the sun was shining - which it most definitely isn't, and clearly has no intention of doing so.

We cross the road just before the cattle grid and start to climb up the bridleway. It's rough underfoot but the views soon start to open up behind us.

However, we are walking up into low cloud which clings to the tree canopy like shield of smoke from a camp fire. It is decidedly atmospheric, if a little chilly.

At the top of the path, which we have reached with less effort than anticipated, we debate for a moment before deciding to turn right along the ridge. We hope, briefly, that the views may suddenly appear for us, but the cloud and the first drizzle of rain put paid to that. A family are sat huddled together facing the non-existant view, but give up on their vigil as we approach.

We continue along the path until it splits, with our path turning right around the woods. Here we decide to find somewhere sort-of sheltered for lunch, since it's now raining as though it means it and the breeze has become rather keen.

We find some shelter amongst the trees with a tumbled stone wall for a comfortable seat. Lunch, buns and coffee are given our full, undivided attention.

We don't linger, it's too damp for that, so we head back to the path and continue on the slight downward slope , passing the outdoor centre on our right before climbing gently again.

The rain has made everything lush and green, and let's be honest, soggy! On the descent, where the path becomes steep and heavily eroded, we meet a gentleman toiling upwards. Naturally we pause to chat, he's scouting out a route for a walking group and has the unenviable task of making it suitable for all-comers as well as being interesting and accessible without cars! We hope he succeeded, he was a very pleasant man.

We're close to the bottom now, and the road which, at this time of year, is (supposedly) closed to all traffic other than residents/staff, but there's always someone who doesn't think it applies to them. So, yes, a few too many cars pass us, but we keep to the path at the side and enjoy the last of the views.

We're soon back at the cars and the walk is over. In fact, walking for a while as PC is away again.

PostScript: apologies for excessive delay in posting, life just gets in the way sometimes. And no, nothing much has been going on with our ramblings, PC has had many home issues to be dealing with as I finished off my summer revising for exams. PC is still juggling with family illnesses and although my exams are over I'm back to studying. So, although we've managed to meet up a handful of times we haven't really walked anywhere worth a blog post. Bear with us though, we'll get around to it eventually.

FOGGY DERWENT VALLEY

We have been terribly remiss lately and this, early in February, is our first walk of the year. Family and weather have been against us whenever we have hoped to get out so despite the murkiness of the day we are quite determined.

The fog is blanketing a huge area today and both of us find the driving conditions quite a challenge. Eventually we manage to find each other and park at the side of the A57 next to Ladybower. Because of the weather we are realistic enough to rule out anything more adventurous than a stroll around the reservoir, but it is still good to be out.

The walk is too familiar and too well documented on our blog to make it necessary to record it in detail, but suffice to say that the path on the side of the reservoir is still under snow and ice which makes walking quite tricky in places. The fog makes the landscape seem very Arthurian and you could half imagine a hand grasping Excalibur sinking beneath the water.

Such imaginings keep us amused, along with an almost constant dialogue as so much has been happening since we last saw each other.

It is a relief to reach Fairholmes where the ducks cluster around the café and the ground isn't frozen sheets of ice. We decide not to stop here for lunch (although we are tempted) but carry on around the reservoir. By now the fog is clearing and on the other 'sunny' side of the water it is hard to believe that the morning has been so murky.

We see the first snowdrops pushing their way up to the light, and a number of Canada geese. There are a few walkers, but not many.

Eventually we find a bench to sit on, much further than we had intended, and prepare for a late lunch accompanied by two hopeful ducks. We have a nip of Ramblers to warm us up, then some spiced vanilla coffee before our sandwiches. The female duck takes exception to our not feeding her and actually flies up to try to grab food as we eat. She is shooed off but returns and keeps eyeing us hopefully.

Bun today is the wonderful spice apple fresh cream muffins. They are a winter speciality so it makes sense to have them while they are available. Suitably fed we drink a second coffee and linger, despite the chill, as we don't have far to go now.

At last, though, it becomes too cold to sit for much longer so we set off for the last stretch to the cars. It is surprising how clear the skies are now, although there are some darker clouds hovering on the horizon and we still have time to have a chat in our cars before heading home.

MADE IT AT LAST - ALPORT CASTLES

Third time lucky for this walk which has been planned before but never managed. Today, though, the weather is clear and the forecast good. There is no way that we're not making it up to Alport Castles, despite PC's trepidation.

As usual we meet up in Fairholmes car park, surprised at how many people and cars are already there. Then we realise that for some this is already the start of the Easter holidays; no doubt it will get busier over the next couple of weeks. We have already decided to split the driving and make it a two-car walk, mainly to cut out around 2 miles of tedious road walking, so all the gear plus dog is put into my car and PC sets off first to park up at a small lay by near Birchenlee. Then we carry on in my car to park close to the start of our path to Alport Castles.

We can't believe how good the weather is, the sun is even shining for us although there is a distinct nip in the air. Still, it makes a change not to have to pile on the layers of clothes before setting off. Neither of us bothers with a coat, a first for this year!

Straight away we are through the gate and off the road, crossing the small bridge over the wide but shallow River Westend just before it feeds into the Howden Reservoir. Although there is a level forest track following the river we immediately take the 'high road', climbing up quite steeply through the trees on a well-worn path signposted with one of the old, green signs.

It's a steady climb and we are both feeling very optimistic. We are getting high up with relatively little effort. And we do prefer to get the climbing over with early on in our walks when we are fresh; there is nothing worse than a steep finish when your legs already feel like lead!

In a surprisingly short time we are emerge from the trees onto the open moor and are immediately taken in by the wonderful, far reaching views. This is somewhere we have never been before, despite years of walking around here, so we are making the most of it. As we climb higher, albeit on a softer gradient, we continue to pause to look back and take in the sights. The reservoirs, Howden Edge, Derwent Edge, Crow Stones Edge all gradually pull into view and we can't keep the smiles from our faces as we enjoy it all.

We pass some shooting butts and as the ground starts to level out we become a little suspicious. Surely we aren't near our destination already.

A few hundred yards on and to our absolute amazement we have arrived at Alport Castles. And what a view we have! Absolutely stunning, we had no idea it could be as good as this. Of course, we do have the weather for it (although it is distinctly cold now and we have pulled on coats and scarves) and we take a multitude of photographs. It is only just noon but since there is a small section of dry stone wall simply waiting to be used as a wind-break we decide we may as well make use of it and settle down for an early lunch where we can revel in the views.

A nip of Ramblers from the secret flask gives us a warm, inner glow and that is followed by scalding hot coffee. PC really knows how to heat the coffee! Sandwiches are rapidly consumed then we have the buns. Today, raspberry cheesecakes. They are so yummy that there is little left in the wrapping for Mollie to enjoy. Our second coffee is poured and we allow ourselves to linger as more walkers come up for the view and all but one return the way they have arrived. 

We pack up and vacate our places, only for them to be filled by the next couple who walk up to the castles! As we walk around the edge PC notices a bird swooping and diving. We know there are Peregrines and ravens up here (and a bird watching hut), but the bird turns out to be a kestrel, and it is dive-bombing a raven whilst making high-pitched screeching noises. Clearly it isn't happy with the bigger bird being in the vicinity and we watch for a while until all goes quiet. A shame we don't see any Peregrines, nor get a good close up of the raven, but it is still a pretty special experience.

From here is it a steady, almost easy walk across the narrow but distinct moorland path. We pass the path leading down to the Alport Valley and, ultimately the Snake Pass in the distance, but continue on ahead. We must keep stopping, though, to admire the views ahead, behind and all around us. This is a walk we will definitely be doing again!

Part of the path becomes a little boggy and we are glad there have been a few dry days of late, and a little way on the path has been flagged, no doubt to reduce the effects of erosion on the peaty moor. 

This is a lovely stroll, and although the sun has gone in and the wind is still chilly, it is pleasant, easy walking. There are sheep, birds and us. By now we can see no more walkers which is a treat on such a bright day.

This is undoubtedly the easiest section of the walk with its almost imperceptible downhill slant. We pass by Pasture Tor and Bellhag Tor which we have walked to in the past from the opposite direction, but today we barely notice them. 

Soon, though (too soon!) we are dipping down more rapidly, have the choice between a ladder stile or a gate (we choose the gate) then are walking through rough sheep pasture, descending all the time until we hop over another stile and walk down to the lane leading to Lockerbrook Farm. We see our first lamb here, but it quickly disappears from sight with its ewe as we turn left onto the track.


This is our final stretch of the walk, a long bridleway that can be a little rough underfoot in places. As it passes into pine woodland the fresh enticing scent of the trees is all around us, a once smelled never forgotten scent. Eventually the path descends more steeply then curves sharply before reaching the road. 

We're here, back on the road next to Derwent reservoir, and it hasn't taken us anything like the amount of time we expected it to. PC's car is in the lay-by waiting for us, so we load it up and drive the two miles to my car. As I swap gear around two men walk up to the vehicle in front of mine carrying bags of litter. They have clearly been up on the moors, and been cleaning up other people's mess as they go. They deserve a lot of credit for doing that, it is a shame so many people think it is OK just to drop their rubbish anywhere they choose. 

Still, it is time to go, and for a while as well. Not only does Easter interrupt our walking but PC is off sailing again. With good luck and a fair degree of determination I will try to do some walking on my own, hopefully with a greater degree of success than I managed last year.

But for now, we have managed to finish on a wonderful walk which will keep us going for a while.