EYAM AND STONEY MIDDLETON

A bit of a departure from the normal for us this week, visiting parts we've never reached before. Not that they're far away, quite the contrary, but somehow we've never ventured here.
We meet up in the large car park in Eyam, across from the museum (worth a visit if you can avoid school-trips), and with large, pleasant public loos. Except that today they are closed for improvements. We pay the parking fee, consoling ourselves that the high charges are still a fair return for a full day's outing, and prepare to leave.

It isn't a particularly bright start to the day, low lying mist and fog have lain over much of the route here, but there has been a few promising patches of sunshine which we hope will gather strength as the day progresses. Even as we are pulling on our rucksacks the sky seems to be clearing, although that doesn't stop PC putting on gaiters and tying her heavy waterproof coat around her waist - just in case.

We walk out of the car park and turn left around the little corner shop to go through the village. We're still pretty early so the tourists keen to partake in a little plague history are few and far between. We have to keep crossing the road to keep on the pavement which, for some reason, doesn't keep to one side. Mollie fancies a trip into the church yard (probably to get away from the road, she has an aversion to traffic) but we persuade her to carry on with us.

Past the school and we take the 'high road' where the road splits, then once we reach the point where the road rejoins the 'low road' we cross over them both to a small tarmac path on the far side (Mill Lane). Behind us is a group of walkers, studying their maps and chatting. We don't really want to be caught up by them, although they seem unsure as to which way to go.

A little way up this lane we come to the Lydgate Graves. Since church burials were suspended during the plague this became the burial site for plague victims, George and Mary Darby (father and daughter). There is a web site for Eyam village if anyone is interested at: http://www.eyamplaguevillage.co.uk/ which gives more information.

We pause to take a photo then continue on our way. By now the sun is out and it seems pretty obvious that the waterproofs aren't going to be needed. A little way on and we have a choice - there is a footpath straight ahead (with the possibility of cows in the fields) and a lane to the left which is a 'route with public access' (which usually means 4x4s). With minimal debate, and a promise to retreat if cows are encountered, we take the path straight ahead. Through a few gates next to some attractive cottages and we're crossing an open field with views towards woods on our left.

Soon the open field narrows through a narrow crush-stile for narrow people (with an option to divert over a broken down wall) into an enclosed track. By now, however, the group of walkers we'd seen back in Eyam are closing in on us at a fair pace, but they are strung out so we don't feel inclined to slow down to let them pass. When we reach the end of the track and go through the next gateway (fortunately not so narrow) the group have stopped somewhere and are nowhere in sight.

Ahead the path goes straight and slightly uphill towards the Eyam Boundary Stone which, in all honesty, could easily be overlooked if it wasn't for the indentation around it made by many reverential feet. We pass the boundary stone and walk up the slightly higher rise named The Cliff. Calling it The Cliff does seem an over-exaggeration but the views are pretty good. Behind us the walkers have caught up again and are now debating the finer points of the boundary stone.

As we set off down the hill towards Stoney Middleton the hoards descend upon us so we stand aside to let them pass. They seem very intent on getting somewhere very quickly so it seems better to let them get on with it. Once they're out of earshot we continue on our way, meandering down the hill at a more seemly pace, then through the gate at the bottom. We've now joined the 'route with public access' that we chose to ignore earlier. We take the looping back road at Stoney Middleton and pass near the church which, if it wasn't for the walking group clustered in a huddle in the churchyard, we would have photographed.

We press on, cross the A623 which isn't too busy at the moment, then on up the steep hill between the village cross and the pub. By now the early mist has more or less burnt off and the sun is shining. We're only a few yards up the steep slope (bet it's murder in winter) when PC calls a halt to the proceedings to allow her to remove a couple of layers. Yes, it's warming up.

This is the part of Stoney Middleton you seldom see. From the main road at the bottom the overriding impression is of a dark, gloomy village, flanked by glowering cliffs and best passed through as quickly as possible. However, here the perpetual shade of the valley bottom has been exchanged for an open aspect which only improves the higher up the hill you go. By the time we turn left onto the footpath towards Coombs Dale we are able to stop to enjoy the broad distant views from our vantage point. There's still some haze in the distance making Froggatt Edge indistinct, but there's still plenty to look at.

We keep on the obvious path, pass through a field gate then on until we come to another new gate. It seems that this walk, new to us, is popular enough to have had it's gates and stiles upgraded. Through the gate the path remains obvious, sweeping down to our left, although we had hoped that the right hand path (on the map) would have been clear on the ground. Since it isn't, and the terrain makes it impossible to see it anywhere, we decide to the follow the left hand path as it will still take us to where we want to be.

Down across an open field, then a couple of stiles and a dried up stream bed and we're in Coombs Dale. This is a really pretty, wooded spot with a stream on the right and a few carefully placed benches. We make for one and sit down, not particularly in need of a rest but determined to enjoy a nip of Ramblers. The secret flask is emptied (must remember to refill when I get home) and we savour the drink as we watch Mollie play with sticks and stones whilst failing to notice a rabbit hopping nearby.

We stroll on a little further marvelling at the quiet. This dale is right on the edge of Stoney Middleton and easily accessible so we expected to see a few locals walking here, but no. We eventually come across the path we had hoped to take at the top of the hill, and a quick peek to see how clear it is shows the bottom of it (this end) fairly distinct but where it goes from there is anyone's guess.

We keep to our path and as we reach some beautifully structured cliffs with the stream running beneath we spy another bench, and decide that fate has placed it here for us. We sit down and fetch out lunch. Sandwiches, heavy salad, coffee and the buns. A very healthy option this week. Fresh Cream Apple Tarts with a custardy base. Surely these must count as one of our five a day! They are devoured with alarming speed (why don't buns last longer?) and since we can feel a chill here in the partial shade we decide to pack up and carry on.

This kind of walking is so easy. Yes, we see a herd of cyclists, a couple out walking, then two singles, but that's it for other people. We can stroll along without having to bother about finding our way (although a slight miscalculation in the map reading does mean that we're not as far on as we thought) and we're hardly taxing ourselves.

As we reach the end of the woods I see cows ahead but PC reassures me that they are all safely behind a fence. Fine for her to talk! When we get closer we see that one of them has escaped its boundary and is standing on our side!. I walk past at an increased pace whereas PC stops to take a photo. She has no fear.

It's at this point that I make the discovery that we aren't as far on in our walk as I'd thought, but the sun is shining, the cows are behind us and all feeling right with the world. We've plenty of time and we don't have to rush.

The path here is stony and is leading us gently uphill with the shape of the valley becoming more distinct as we leave the last vestiges of the woods behind. There's a barred-off mine entrance on our left leading to Sallet Hole Mine, now disused (I believe). The next stretch of the walk is known as Rough Side and soon we're at the top of it and going through a gate to a junction of paths. This is Black Harry Gate and we'll be turning right and walking up Black Harry Lane.

Who was Black Harry? Well, it seems that he was an 18th Century highwayman who preyed on travellers and mule trains crossing the moors. Tradition has that he met his end on the Gallows Tree, Wardlow Mires, where he was hung, drawn and quartered for his crimes, but it is equally possible that he was executed at York. And it is more likely that he took his name from the lane, rather than the lane being named after him, since this was one of his favourite haunts.

So much for Black Harry, we press on up the lane which is steep(ish) and bounded by drystone walls. From here there are excellent views of the rolling limestone plateau. Looking back we can see the enormity of the Blakedon Hollow, a 'lagoon' constructed in the 1970's (after demolishing Black Harry Farm) to take the waste from local fluorospar workings.

The lane levels at the top for a while before starting to descend to meet the minor road from Stoney Middleton To Cavendish Mill. We cross the road and are now heading downhill toward the Darlton quarry. The shadows are lengthening now but the sun is still warm and we're still meandering at a steady pace. The quarry comes into view, not pretty but essential to the local economy, and there is an explanatory board for anyone who is interested.

The lane narrows to a path and we have to be careful as it emerges onto the main driveway of the quarry. A lorry passes us, then we take the narrow, steep and slippy path through the trees to the main road. There, we're back at the side of the A623. Now it's a trek up the B6521 road to Eyam. At least there's a walkway, of sorts, at the side of the road, but that only extends halfway up. After that we have to be cautious of traffic coming towards us, and there is quite a bit of it.

Soon we're up at the top and on the level again. Eyam village is busier now, the plague visitors are out in force, but we're intent on getting back to the cars, even though it would be good to linger.

It has been a brilliant walk, great weather, varied terrain, different things to see, and not much of a strain. We're wondering how long our luck will last, surely we're due a deluge soon! Fingers crossed it won't be next week.

Moors, Reservoirs and Stone Circles

Last week must have been a fluke so it's a good job that we aren't exactly expecting bright sunny skies and sub-tropical weather. And although it is clear, more or less, we can see potential rainclouds on the horizon and when we emerge into the open at our meeting place we are hammered by a bitterly cold wind. Thankfully we've brought extra layers, just in case.

Today we're pretty close to the edge of the National Park boundary and we've parked our cars at the small, high car park at Shillito Wood. (Grid ref 295 750). It's wonderfully deserted as we arrive, but by the time we're organised three more cars have pulled up.

We spend a little time debating on today's buns. In an uncharacteristic rush of indecisiveness I'd been unable to choose our treat this morning, so ended up bringing three kinds of bun for PC to make the final decision. What a shame there's only room for one each in the rucksacks, I'll have to eat the others later!

There are lovely views from the car park and there's also a handily placed information board which we wander over to so as to take in a few details. Apparently this is part of an old route across the moors.We turn around and set off through the woods, allowing Mollie off the lead to run off some of her energy.

The peaty path here is quite deep underfoot and heavily churned up by horses' hooves so it's much easier walking on the grass between the trees.

A little way into the wood is an old stone cross, 13th or 14th century and attributed to Beauchief Abbey. It is known by various names, Shillito Wood Cross, Bole Hill Cross and Shepherds Cross, but would have provided a way-marker in the days before maps, road signs and tarmac roads!

We walk through the wood then emerge onto the road at the bottom and crossing over to the gate at the other side which leads onto Ramsley Moor. The path is smooth and wide, but wet and muddy in places. At the side of the path is a carved stone, relatively new, and as we look at it and read the words (PC commenting on the carving that 'hands are hard to do' - I'll take her word for it) we are unaware at that point that we'll meet up with more of this stones on our walk. (There is a web site and more detailed guide to the stones, if anyone is interested, at: www.artsinthepeak.co.uk/cs )

Despite the path being wet it is easy walking. The moor is a fairly barren place, all dead dried out grasses and patches of bog. The land rises up to our right, and there's another cross up there, and the correct line of the path goes there too but we follow the easier track which curves around and takes us over a small stream which runs into the larger, (nameless, so far as I can find out) stream which runs beneath Hewitts Bank. The path runs through some trees, mainly birch to our left and fenced off mixed woodland to our right, and here the path deteriorates dramatically. Deeply churned and extremely boggy we're forced to bank-hop to keep our feet dry. Mollie, naturally, doesn't care and splashes straight through the middle of it all.

The sogginess extends quite some distance before we rise up out of it and by now we can almost see the end of this stretch of the walk. Luckily the sun is trying to break out, not that it is much warmer, so we debate a while on what to do. Our original plan, we now realise, would have us returning to the cars far too early, so after a quick consultation with the map, and some hasty calculations, we decide that we should press forward and extend our planned walk by - well, quite a lot actually.

We go through the gate (why are gateways always so boggy) , cross over the rocky track called Carr Road, and clamber over the opposite stile that leads us through Greaves's Place with Smeekly Wood away to our right. This is a less used path than the one across Ramsley Moor (the gates are locked shut so access is only via the stiles - no horses, bikes or 4x4s) so we're dry shod now as we climb slowly uphill. We keep looking back as the higher we climb (it's not a hard climb, more of a gentle but persistent gradient) the more of the rear view opens up to us.

Eventually we come to a stile onto the main A621 - if it can be called a stile. The step has disappeared, leaving a short post to balance on. Mollie seems confused, so I go over first, showing all the agility of a world class gymnast (thank goodness no cars were coming), Mollie seems to get the idea and follows. Then it's PC's turn and she's cursing even though it's not much of a struggle for her.

We cross over the road and are faced with a stile of stone steps then a tarmac track onto Big Moor. We haven't gone very far before we come upon a large stone waymarker (with Shefield on one side, and something illegible on the other) accompanied by one of the new stone carvings. This is a very cold, bleak and desolate place, and we don't hang around.

The tarmac path leads us towards Barbrook Reservoir and it's accompanying works buildings. However, the reservoir is almost empty and looks to have been like that for some time. We walk along the eastern edge of the once-reservoir with the intention of finding the stone circle nearby. At the northern corner I head off onto the moor looking for the circle, with PC providing the line of sight, essential since I have to avoid a huge area of undrained bog. Alas, the circle could not be found due to the very deep, tussocky grass (we weren't the only ones looking for it, a group of four were hunting around and seemed to be equally unsuccessful). It's a shame it has become buried by the grass as it is apparently one of the largest in the Peak District (see http://www.megalithic.co.uk/ Barbrook 3 for more details and photos).

I struggle through the grass to join PC and Mollie and we wander back to the bank of the defunct reservoir to make use of its wall as a comfortable seat on which to relax and eat lunch out of the ever present wind. Sandwiches (PC) and heavy salad (me) are eaten first then out come the Chosen Buns. Fresh Cream Banoffee Pies, and we even have forks to eat them with. No calories written on the packaging, so they are fat, sugar and everything-free, and we're even getting one of our 5-a-day (well almost). They are positively healthy - and very yummy too. We finish off with coffee and are feeling more in need of a nap than getting up and walking again.

But we have to make an effort, so we set off down the track past the reservoir works and southwards. We're following the line of Bar Brook now and even though there isn't much water in the reservoir there's plenty in the brook. We'd seen a sign warning us of machinery and we finally spot a digger way over to our right, almost out of sight - too far away to be much of a hindrance to us.

The brook leads us towards another, smaller and unnamed mini reservoir which is very reminiscent of tarns in the Lake District. On the edge of the outflow are two ducks participating in, what can only be called, extreme bathing. They are submerging and splashing about whilst avoiding being swept over the edge. When we get closer they swim off, trying to look nonchalant, but we'd seen them. At the base of the outflow is a pretty little copse of trees which must be a welcome shady spot in summer.

We continue on the path, and come upon yet another newly carved stone, along with one a little way down the bank, but after trying to decipher the words we give up. We're out for a walk, not for mind-stretching activities. (Check the web site above if you're interested.)

A little way further, though, and we are rewarded with the discovery of another Stone Circle. This one is very clear and easily accessible so we spend a little time looking around it before continuing. The light is slanting across the moors now and we have left some of the barrenness behind us as the vista ahead opens up.

The track leads us to a stile next to a white gate back onto the A621, and across the road we have the same to negotiate again to return onto Ramsley Moor. The path is at a slight angle to the road and curves gently around until it reaches Ramsley Reservoir. We pause to look around, remarking how good the views have been today for relatively little effort. Yes, we've walked quite a distance but it hasn't exactly been difficult. No hard climbs at all.

Ramsley Reservoir, like Barbrook, is almost empty, and we climb the stile to walk across its dam, then over another stile to reach the short stretch of path which takes us to the road. Then we've only a short distance on the wide road verge to walk before we're back at Shillito Woods and the cars.

This has been an extremely rewarding walk and one that we're sure we'll be repeating at some time in the future, and for next week we're planning a trip into the great unknown (for us, anyway).

OUTLAWS AND HEROES - Robin Hood to Nelson

Wow! This is unbelievable. Another fine day on the horizon, and our walking day too. Are we lucky or are we lucky? (Perhaps it's time we starting buying lottery tickets!) Yes, the sun is already shining even though it's only just past 9.30 am and it feels like SPRING, even though it isn't, officially, for a while yet.

We pull up in the car park at the side of the Robin Hood pub, the well known hostelry on the Chesterfield side of Baslow nestling beneath Birchen Edge. There's plenty of room for our cars even though there are already four mini-buses here and some other vehicles too. On sunny weekends this car park is usually full to overflowing with a scrubby field across the road being pressed into use for the excess, but no such problems mid-week.

Today's walk is going to be much shorter than usual - family commitments demand attention - but we're still looking forward to it, and so is Mollie. She's quickly settled down to the idea of these outings and seems delighted to be with us (the dog biscuits in my pocket have nothing whatsoever to do with her enthusiasm).

No need for waterproofs today but somehow the rucksacks don't seem to be a lot lighter as we leave the car park and walk the few yards up the road to the beginning of the path to Birchen Edge. As we walk up the slight slope PC has a moment of consternation - is that a stile at the top? She had an injection in her hip yesterday and has been told to 'take it easy'. Somehow a stile doesn't quite fall into that category, but she needn't have worried. It's a gate (phew) and we're straight through it and onto the broad path.

It's light woodland here and, for now at least, sheepless so Mollie is allowed off the lead to chase sticks and stones - one of her favourite hobbies.

Meanwhile we walk along catching up on what has been a hectic week on the domestic front. Oh, is it good to talk.

There's a path up to the right, climbing steeply up onto the Edge, but we decide to keep to the 'low road' where the going is easy. We'll be able to go up to the Edge later on and with less effort. Even from the lower path, though, we have fantastic views down towards Baslow and of the surrounding moors.

The rocks of Birchen Edge rise steeply on our right and there's already a group of hard - hatted climbers making their way up.

Seems too much like hard work to us, but to each his own.

After a while the woods (if the sparse clusters of birch trees can really claim to be serious woodland) thin out even more and the moor unfolds before us. It isn't late and we aren't planning to walk too far but it seems the spot to fetch out the flask so we make our way across the tussocky bleached grass to find an appropriately sized rock to sit on. Out comes the coffee (no Ramblers today, the short walk doesn't warrant it) and we sit in the sunshine enjoying our drinks, watching the horses in a field up ahead and enjoying the peace. There isn't another soul about. Probably just as well really, we wouldn't want them listening in on our conversation.

It's a very mellow feeling, and one that we'd love to prolong, but we decide we'd better move on so we retrace our steps to the path and begin to look for a spot where we can go up onto the Edge. There isn't a clear path but we're pretty good at finding our way and eventually we spy a possible route up. It's one of those paths that you can't see from a distance but when you're on it you can follow it fairly easily, and it takes us up onto the Edge with relative ease. Then we turn and look back. The view from here is stunning. So much reward for so little effort.

Then I notice cows grazing down below. Effectively they are on the same part of the moor as us, there are no field boundaries or walls, and they have left 'evidence' all along the Edge, which means they are no strangers to the view from here, but I am really really glad that today they are a long way off.

Firstly we amble along the path running NE but it doesn't really go anywhere, or rather it doesn't go anywhere we want to go, so we turn about and set off towards the trig point (310m) on the Edge. Just before we get to it, though, we find the perfect spot to sit down for lunch. A slight landslip near the edge of the ridge has left a bench shaped depression on the ground. It's as though it was made for us and it would seem ungrateful if we ignored it.

So we eat our sandwiches and drink our coffee (Mollie has her water and biscuits, naturally, although she does seem hopeful that she'll get something better) whilst enjoying the sun-enhanced view. Then it's bun time. PCs turn today, and because we're having to forgo the Ramblers she's brought chocolate cheesecakes as a special (super-high calorie) treat. And a treat they are, even though we only have one spoon between us and I have had to fashion another 'spoon' from some plastic packaging with my trusty boys-own knife. Ray Mears would be proud.

We check the time and know we can't linger too long, so up we get and continue along the path, past the trig point and towards the huge mounds of rock ahead. They are very impressive when approached from this direction and we can almost see why they were chosen to be the 'Three Ships'.

On the right, on the edge of the Ridge is Nelson's Monument, a tall obelisk with a sphere on the top commemorating Nelson's death at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. The three ships are named after three of those in Nelson's fleet at Trafalgar:

Victory,

Defiance and Royal Soverin (yes, that's the spelling). The Victory and Royal Soverin were 100 gun ships whilst the Defiance carried 74 guns. At the base of the Defiance is another carving in the rock, much eroded, with the initials ?EC? and the date 1766. We can only speculate what this relates to the date of birth of the carver or of someone on one of the ships, or some other significant moment in time for someone completely unrelated to the Battle of Trafalgar with the carved date predating any notion to erect a monument to Nelson.

We leave the ships, the monument and the climbers (who seem to be using the monument as a focus) and continue on our way, conscious that we have to make it back to the car park early. This section of the walk is level (apart from the rocks in the path) and easy whilst still maintaining the wonderful views.

The path does become quite narrow in places (we have to step aside to let someone pass in the opposite direction) and since we've found it easier to let Mollie run loose instead of tripping us up she rewards us by rolling in some cow poo! Ungrateful dog - glad she's going home in the car with PC and not me!

Eventually the path curves around and we make a quick descent down the steep path we'd ignored on our way out. Then we're back on the 'low road' again and only have a short stretch back to the car park.

To say it has only been a short walk it has been an excellent one. The weather has been great and the views spectacular for minimal effort. It's no wonder this is such a magnet for the weekend walkers or less adventurous, but mid-week it's a pretty good choice as the crowds are out of the way.

Fingers crossed that the Spring weather continues for next week.

A CIRCUIT FROM CHATSWORTH TO CALTON LEES AND ROWSLEY AND BACK AGAIN

We're back after half-term but it seems to have been a much longer break. And we'd waiting until the last minute to plan this walk given the uncertainty of the weather at this time of year. But we needn't have bothered. The forecast is good and we're raring to go.

We park up in the Chatsworth Car Park at the Calton Lees end of the estate (close to the garden centre) and are pleased that the little man isn't in his hut demanding money. Probably too early in the year and his wages would undoubtedly come to more than the parking fees even though there seems to be an organised walk congregating here this morning.

Avoiding the growing group of walkers (we're solitary souls) we have a quick catch-up with events, show off the buns (later, later) and tog up. The waterproofs are packed, just in case, and Mollie is let out of the car. She turns her nose up at the prospect of dog biscuits but seems excited enough as the prospect of a fun walk.

We head off across the road and after a brief stop at the garden centre loos we walk in the direction of Calton Lees. There are a few snowdrops flowering on the narrow verge as we approach the few houses that make up this tiny hamlet. The path we need is the bridleway which runs straight ahead and, very gradually, uphill. At the side of the path are some trees and a wide, fast running stream. We're well and truly into catch-up-on-all-the-gossip mode now, which is fine as we don't have to do any map reading or stop to enjoy the views just yet.

Mollie seems to be pacing herself this time but she is very interested in drinking from puddles. We come up to a lovely stone water trough fed by a stream from the hillside so we take Mollie to it. She isn't interested, which shows that it isn't only horses that you can take to water, but not make them drink! She's far happier with the puddles.

As the path climbs we can look back over the widening views towards Beeley Moor. Pausing to enjoy the scenery gives us the opportunity to remove a layer too as it has become appreciably warmer.

We follow the path between the houses at Calton Houses, enjoying the sight of huge clumps of snowdrops while being spied on by a large fluffy black cat. Mollie doesn't see the cat, which is probably just as well.

At the top of the path we come to a gate, go through it (or in Mollie's case, under it) and turn left. The path skirts the woods at Calton Plantations then doubles back at the other side before heading across an upward sloping field. To begin with the path is very clear, but this is deceptive. Before long it peters out and we play guess-which-way-we-need-to-go-now, a common game that we're becoming quite proficient at. After a brief consultation with the map we see that we should be heading to the edge of some woods with a tumulus on our right. Yes, we can see the tumulus up ahead and set off confidently, only having to veer off course a little when we see the gate in the fence line.

We're right on the edge of the woods now, and the sun has come out, and there is a small wall with some very flat stones on top just at bum height. It really is an opportunity too good to miss so we sit down, break out the Ramblers and relax. Mollie has found a dog biscuit on the floor (fallen from my pocket) and devours it greedily so we toss her some more and she eats the lot. Contrary dog!

We sit for a long time enjoying the sun, the company, the mellowing effects of the Ramblers, the silence (OK, apart from our constant chatter) and that away-from-it-all feeling. Who needs exotic locations?

We debate staying in our comfy spot for lunch but decide to press on so we walk through the woods following the path as it brings us out at the top of Manners Wood where we have a view (through the trees) of the far side of the Wye Valley. It's very easy walking ahead, but there are some muddy patches we have to avoid, and we are definitely going downhill. Eventually we have a steep stretch that is just a bit slippery and we end up where we'd walked a few weeks ago, at the welcome sign to Manners Wood and the path leading towards Bakewell Golf course.

Ignoring that route we turn left and are soon going downhill once again, but this time the path is narrower and decidedly muddier. At one point - the boggiest, naturally - we meet the only other walkers we've seen since leaving Calton Lees and we have to splosh past each other.

At the bottom of the slope we emerge from the woods onto shingle roads and turn left through a gate and onto the bridleway leading to Rowsley. The sun really is shining now and it is so hard to believe that it's February and not May. I can't remember having ever removed so many layers at this time of year before! We are getting a little concerned that we haven't eaten yet but, just as we're beginning to fret, we see a huge tree trunk inviting us to sit and enjoy the view. So we do.

Out come the sandwiches, flask and buns. Yes, they're fresh cream scones along with a small pot of jam each (cherry for PC, strawberry for me). It feels so good to be sat in the sunshine having a picnic. Even Mollie is enjoying the last of the biscuits.

It is extremely tempting to while away the whole afternoon here, but since we've never done this walk before we can't be exactly certain how long it will take for us to get back, so we hoist our rucksacks onto our backs and continue on our way. We pass through the woods called Bouns Corner and as we turn right onto the walled track heading downhill we pause to admire the moss covered stones. Clearly there is little sun and a lot of moisture here as the moss is thick, springy and very strokeable.

It's a long track down towards Rowsley and this part of the village is very charming. The most we see of the village is when driving through, but here, near the church, it is quiet and tranquil. There are some farms at the bottom of the lane and at the side of one we notice the old green metal signpost for Calton Lees and the path we need to take.

Here it is seriously muddy, churned up by walkers, tractors and other farm machinery. Possibly even cattle too, but I don't want to think about that. The wide track goes under the old railway arch and continues ahead, easy to follow but still very muddy. On the right is the River Derwent flowing deceptively fast and deep.

Eventually the mud runs out and walking becomes easier again. Amongst the trees close to the river are a few clumps of snowdrops, whether naturalised or planted deliberately it is hard to know. Eventually we go over a gate and are in a long, broad field which follows the river. It is flat, mud-free and basking in the sun. When we come to a wall we realise that we haven't been following the proper path, a common occurrence it seems as the farmer has helpfully put up a sign directing walkers up the wall-line to the proper path.

Once on track again we go through the wide gap in the wall and continue straight ahead through all the sheep, some of them stamping in annoyance when they see Mollie. She, sensibly, ignores them. Ahead there is another stile to negotiate then a short, sharp uphill stretch. At the top we can stand by a tree and enjoy the wonderful views bathed in warm afternoon sunshine.

We go through a gap in the wall (thank goodness we don't have to climb the ladder stile next to it) then follow the wall down to Calton Lees. Fortunately we can go through a gate here instead as the stile doesn't look very welcoming (unless you have abnormally long legs). As we wander through the hamlet we are forced to stop and admire a beautiful garden complete with stream, summerhouse and swathes of snowdrops and bright yellow aconites.

It isn't a long way back to the car park now and as we get closer we realise that the sunshine has brought people out in droves. I bet the Duke wishes his little man was collecting parking fees after all.

It's really hard to head off home when the walk and the whole day has been so good, but duties call. Next week our walk will have to be much shorter - both in time and distance - but we don't intend to miss out altogether and are keeping our fingers crossed for another fine day.

HATHERSAGE AND PADLEY

First of all we'd like to introduce you to Mollie.

Mollie, as you can see, is an absolutely gorgeous border collie whose hobbies include walking and chasing sticks. She belongs to a friend of PC and we are to be her occasional 'dog walkers', although we think Mollie sees herself as a 'human walker' instead.

For this week's walk we meet at the Surprise View Car Park ready to do battle with the cursed Pay and Display machine that only takes card payments. It's special trick for today is issuing tickets completely devoid of details. Good one.

It is bitterly cold and there is a scattering of snow about, so we fortify ourselves before setting off. PC was concerned that we'd had the last of the Ramblers on our last walk so had brought some Cointreau (a bottle!) to fill up the secret flask. However, the flask had already been miraculously refilled (can't walk without the Ramblers) so we have a tot of the Cointreau anyway - well, no point in bringing it all this way and not trying it! And yes, it was good and suitably warming on this chilly day.

We head off across the car park and discover that Mollie isn't too used to being on the lead. She's a real puller, but once onto the path leading to Millstone Edge we are able to let her onto a longer lead. Later we'll be able to let her run which will hopefully tire her a bit.

On reaching the Edge we see the snow on the distant hills perfectly lit on this bright, sunny day - a good deal better than on our last walk up here. It's Candlemass today and, apparently, if the day is fine we're in for more winter. So it seems that we're pretty much doomed.

Mollie takes up a lot of our attention as we're walking along the Edge. It's a long time since we've had a dog for company and we're enjoying the novelty.

The path dips down and we take a left turn, walking carefully through the snow and ice. The ground, where it is bare of snow, is frozen solid and we're planting our feet carefully so we don't slip. It would be a hard landing. Partway down the slope and before we reach the road we cross the stile in the fence line to our left. Mollie watches us and we wonder how she'll take to it, but we needn't have worried. Patting the top rail of the stile and saying 'come on' has her leaping over with wonderful agility. Only wish we could do the same.

We make our way downhill through the brittle, brown bracken until we reach the path at the bottom running alongside a stone wall. A short way along and we find the gate leading into Whim Wood. At last Mollie can have a run and she teaches us to throw sticks for her - again, and again, and again. We play along, all that bending and stretching must be doing us some good.

At the exit to the wood it's back onto the lead for Mollie and a few paces up the road before we cross to the footpath leading towards Hathersage and Scraperlow Farmhouse (a Grade II listed building looking like a mini fortress). Again Mollie astounds us as she bounds up onto the stile, takes a few paw-steps on the adjacent stone wall, then lands with an 'easy-peasy' expression on the correct side. We take a little longer.

The first part of the path is the driveway to Scraperlow, but where the drive sweeps right we continue straight ahead and soon come to the woods by High Lees. We meet one dog walker coming to us from the opposite direction, but so far that's the only other walker we've seen all day.

On this path we're glad that it is so cold as the rutted ground shows what it would be like if the mud wasn't frozen solid. It wouldn't be particularly inviting. The woods, however, are pleasant and we must make an effort to come here at a more attractive time of year.

The path leads us onto a little lane running behind houses that front onto the main A6187 out of Hathersage, and there are some snowdrops trying to flower although it's probably a little shaded for them here.

We're soon onto the road and heading down to Hathersage and their conveniently placed conveniences. It isn't very busy today, the cold must be keeping everyone indoors, now that a few clouds have started to gather the great outdoors isn't as enticing.

Soon we're on our way again, and we cross the road before turning left on the B6001 towards Grindleford. There isn't much traffic and it isn't long before we're under the railway bridge and taking the left hand footpath which is part of the Derwent Valley Heritage Way. This runs alongside a very cold and bleak looking River Derwent.

It's flat, easy walking and we soon come to a gate being guarded by two bay ponies. They totally ignore us as we pass through the adjacent walkers' gate, but a black and white Shetland pony comes barrelling over to us immediately hoping, no doubt, to be fed. When it realises that we aren't going to be forthcoming with treats it turns its back and saunters off. Two other, grey, ponies a few yards further on don't even bother to lift their heads to look at us.

This is a long, wide field that slopes steeply up to the left. There is a small flock of sheep up there and we suspect they may be some kind of rare breed, but our knowledge is limited, to say the least. At the end of the field we go through a new-looking gate and onto a woodland path (Coppice Wood). There is a faint glimmer of sunlight but we can't find anywhere to sit for lunch so we carry on up the well-walked left hand path leading uphill and, eventually, over the railway line. Once away from the railway bridge we find a perfectly sized boulder to sit on for lunch.

By this time we have come to the conclusion that Mollie is a little bewildered. She's plainly used to walks that go 'there and back again' rather than just keep going, as well as walks that don't last so long. And as for sitting down to eat, she obviously thinks we've lost the plot completely. However she dutifully (gratefully) lays down as we break out the sandwiches and coffee and warm ourselves up with a nip from the secret flask. The Ramblers goes down very well as a few fairy-sized flakes of snow begin to fall. We ignore them and hope they'll go away.

After coffee, sandwiches and Ramblers the buns come out. They are our 'summer buns', not because we eat them in summer (although we do, given the chance) but because they are full of summer. Fresh strawberry tarts with creme anglaise. These are from M&S and we compare them with Tesco's Finest. Well, M&S tarts have more strawberries and a creamier creme anglaise with harder pastry. Tesco have a custardier creme anglaise but crumblier pastry. All in all, they're both exceptionally good, so no complaints.

Since Mollie wants nothing to eat or drink we pack up and head on up to the path leading towards Padley Chapel. As we approach we berate ourselves, yet again, for not coming to visit the interior when it is open and once again we put it on our To Do list.

We walk past the Chapel, and someone enjoying their lunch on the steps, and head down towards Grindleford, turning left onto the Padley Wood path before reaching Grindleford Station. It suddenly seems to be a long, steep haul up here and we remind ourselves why it is a bad idea to park our cars at the highest point of our round-walks as we always have to finish on an uphill stretch when we're beginning to tire. Not that Mollie seems tired. Although she's walking sedately on the lead now as soon as we're in the woods we let her off and she wants to play 'fetch the stick' again.

We always seem to be in these woods in winter, or at cold times of year, but at least it gives us the opportunity to see the wonderful twisted shapes of branches and trees growing around boulders. At the top of the wood a group are pitching a tent! and have slung a zip wire across the water. Rather them than us.

It isn't far to go now and we're trudging up the deep, hollowed pathway towards the road. Mollie is tired but seems to sense that we're closing in on our starting point, so when we finally cross the road and reach our cars she leaps into the back of PCs car at great speed and without any prompting.

We've done the walk in pretty good time and have really enjoyed having our new friend with us. But we are left wondering what the Candlemass prediction is for a day that starts fine but ends cloudy with tiny flurries of snow. Has winter gone, or is the worst yet to come?

STEADY AS THEY STROLL - AN EASY ROUTE FROM BAKEWELL AND BACK

As promised we meet up in the Bakewell car park again, relieved to be out. What a lot has happened since our last walk, and not much of it good, so getting out will be perfect therapy. We've hardly pulled on our boots before we're exchanging news, views and sympathy and even the moody Pay and Display machine doesn't put us off our stride as it spits out proffered coins one moment only to accept them the next! As last we're ready for the off, and despite a clear day we've wrapped up warm. The unseasonally mild weather has drifted away and although the sky is clear (more or less) it's feeling bitterly cold.

We leave the car park and head up the gently sloping road to the left which winds around to the old station which is now on the Monsal Trail. We cross the car park (and note that parking here is 50p cheaper for the day) and emerge onto the Trail. There's a tempting sign at the side of the path. Handmade Chocolates. Very very tempting. PC suggests we call on the way back, even if it means making a detour. But showing admirable willpower we decide to forgo the delights that only chocolate can provide, and set off.

The Trail is very easy walking but we aren't tempted to move beyond a gentle ambling pace. We know it isn't going to be a long or taxing walk, and we need our breath to talk. A few cyclists pass us - they must be chilly in all that Lycra - and we see a few dog walkers, but it isn't very busy.

To be honest, this section of the Monsal Trail isn't particularly inspiring. There are no long-distance views as the high railway banks hide the scenery, and at this time of year there isn't a great deal happening in the hedgerows. Good job we have lots to talk (and rant) about.

We walk under the road-bridge (A619) and soon spy some picnic tables and benches ahead. Naturally they beckon to us, and we're soon sat comfortably if not warmly. Coffee is on the menu, but the immediate necessity is for something a little stronger. Out comes the Ramblers (not that we're doing much in the way of rambling today) and the Secret Flask is emptied into our plastic cups. Perfect: warming and mellowing, and we're in need of both. As a special treat we have extra buns so out come some fruit slices, and they go down very well with an excellent cup of coffee. A boisterous and inquisitive young bull terrier comes up to see what we're up to, and snuffling for any treats. It's owner catches up with it and takes it away, though it goes reluctantly.

We decide to crack open the second Secret Flask (things must be bad when we have to delve into our emergency supplies) and enjoy a nip of cointreau. It finishes off our snack perfectly and as we pack away a toddler along with Mum and Gran are hovering - apparently we have been sitting at 'their table'. Suitably stocked up we leave them to it.

A little way along and we come to another old station, this time it has been converted into a cafe and bookshop. PC needs to avail herself of their facilities and the bookshop exerts a strong magnetic pull, but I resist. Again PC suggests visiting on the way back (even though we aren't coming back this way) and again we resist temptation. Aren't we doing well? (If you don't count the extra buns and the Secret Flasks, that is.)

After leaving the cafe/bookshop and regaining the Trail we realise that we have seriously miscalculated. The walk is going to be much shorter than we had anticipated. Our intention had been to walk up the path to the left, opposite Toll Bar House, but after a brief pause for photos across the fields we decide to stroll up to the next bridge

to see what we can see. Not a great deal, as it transpires, although we note one field running with water. By now we've mellowed and have managed to discard most of our angst so we're talking about less stressful subjects, such as exams and therapy!

There doesn't seem to be much point continuing along the Trail, especially as we'll have to back-track, so we return the few yards and take the path that climbs up above the trail. It's narrow and well defined, though a little muddy in places since it isn't surfaced. As we gain height the wind cuts across the fields and we can feel the temperature drop.

It's quite a long path, a public bridleway, and at last we're getting some views but there isn't anywhere sheltered enough for us to stop for lunch. We crest the hill and start to descend towards Bakewell, finally crossing a field full of sheep before reaching tarmac. We're on the edge of the town now and we go to have a look at the beautiful old footbridge, so similar to the one at Ashford in the Water. This is Holme Bridge, built in 1664 and an old Pack Horse Bridge, probably built here to avoid the middle of the town and the tolls payable over the main crossing over the River Wye. The river is running very high and fast today, and whilst it is possible to see where there may have been a ford crossing, the prospect of doing so isn't a pleasant one.

As luck, or providence, would have it, there's a bench at the far side of the river so we cross over the narrow bridge and plonk ourselves down. It isn't warm, but at least the sun is out. We eat our sandwiches quickly so as to get to the buns: fresh cream choux buns with thick chocolate on the top. They aren't very big, but they are satisfying, especially when washed down with the last of the coffee.

It's too cold to linger so even though we're well ahead on time we return over the bridge and head towards the town. There's a path across a field and we have a good view of the main Bakewell bridge in the distance, as well as the height of the river. Some hopeful ducks come scooting up to us as fast as their legs can paddle, but they are to be disappointed.

It's a short stroll back to the cars, but since we still have time to spare we decide to spend half an hour in the town, dumping our gear in the cars before setting off around the narrow streets and some of the more interesting shops (particularly the Apothecary - wonderful smells). But we don't have time to do the whole town justice, and duty beckons, so we head back to the car park.

It has been a particularly easy day today, no stress, no strain and no mad dash. Perfectly theraputic, in fact. Next time we'll head back to the Dark Peak, and hope the promised snow keeps away.

Happy New Year on a Bakewell Walk

It's time to boldly go where we've never been before. We tend to avoid the White Peak area, primarily due to the abundance of cows and a surplus of walls to negotiate, but it's winter and we needed to find somewhere easy to reach, and hopefully easy to walk. And with luck all the cows will be indoors.

So we meet up in the main car park in Bakewell. It isn't a starting point we've used before, although we have managed to touch the edge of this lovely Derbyshire town (or is it a village?) on other walks, especially when we've used the Monsal Trail, but this time the town will be our main point of contact.

We pay our parking fee, pleased to note that it is a little cheaper than some other Derbyshire Pay and Display car parks, and pull on as many layers as possible. Overnight it has become very windy which, in turn, has made it seem very cold.

We take the path down towards the River Wye, cross a bridge, then follow a path running beside the river and past the huge tented-roofed cattle market. Then we have to study the map. It should be a straight-forward walk along a footpath, but the parking area for vehicles visiting the weekly market has obliterated the path, and other parts are roped off. There is a path at the far side of the hedge running parallel, but we choose to stick to our planned route, though we walk on the tarmac road instead. Signs are, to say the least, minimal, but as the tarmac curves to the right we manage to spy a walkers gate over to the left. We have to step over ropes to get to it, but we're on the proper path.

A little way along and a local dog walker is behind us, but they take the parallel path on the far side of the hedge which angles uphill. We assume that they want to keep our of our way, which may be true, but we discover later that they probably intended to keep our of the mud!

Now we're away from the market area the views are improving, but we're starting to pay the penalty for a choosing a low-level walk in winter. The river is only a few yards away to our right, and the ground underfoot is muddy. We tip-toe elegantly around the sloshy bits, but it isn't pleasant. At times it is hard to see a path underfoot (although it's obvious where it is, sandwiched between the hedge and river) and at a particularly wet and boggy section we're relieved to see a narrow footbridge. From here we cross a stile, another boggy field and some broad steps up to join the drier path. Not that this is easy. Being on a slope the churned path is very muddy and we struggle to keep upright. At last we reach the end and come out onto a tarmac bridleway/drive.

We pause to look around, but admit that so far we aren't terrible thrilled with the walk. We're used to far reaching views and wide open spaces, whereas all we've had to contend with is mud. Still, the sun is making an effort and if we can gain some height all may not be lost.

We follow the path uphill and, just before it turns sharp left, look down on the final abandoned section of railway line that forms the Monsal Train. Here it is a narrow path terminating at a bricked up tunnel. It doesn't look very appealing. We continue along the path then pause again to check the map - we seem to be doing a lot of that today. Whereas the tarmac continues straight on there is a path to the right which is the bridleway we need to follow. This goes through a gate then turns right again to follow the fence line uphill.

We're really climbing up now and with the brightening sky we're beginning to get some good views across the Wye Valley towards some very obvious earthworks buried beneath green grass. Through another gate and we know we're somewhere above Haddon Hall although all we can make out is a solitary building that must stand somewhere in the grounds, the Hall itself is hidden from view.

The path is very distinct here, and easy to walk. The sun is shining and the wind has eased, and it seems that the day is going to turn out OK after all. There's a wall ahead which forces the path left. Directly in front is another wall which seems - after consulting the map - to indicate the line of a path, road or driveway directly to Haddon Hall from the farm here. There's no public access, so we can only guess.

We walk between a hedge and the high wall which shields Bowling Green Farm from view, and continue uphill. This is still a bridleway so it is easy walking, broad and firm underfoot. The path dips down, and we ignore the track to the right which would take us towards Rowsley. Instead we go left and pause to enjoy the view down the valley (with Coombe Farm) towards Bakewell. This is more like it. A squirrel, disturbed by our presence, takes flight from its hiding place and scoots out of the way.

This track is very reminiscent of Forestry Commission paths, but we soon reach the end and have to make a decision. The path we thought we'd take is left, but although it is a public bridleway it seems to end at Coombe Farm and we doubt the farmer would appreciate us walking through his yard. We don't want to turn back (all that mud!) so we decide to take the obviously well-used bridleway straight ahead and uphill through Rowsleymoor Wood. We're making good time so we reckon we can easily cope with this slightly extended route.

Part way up the path we see evidence of wind damage - a huge tree has had one of its heavy high branches split from the main trunk leaving creamy white timber exposed. We walk under the fallen branch and push on up to the top of the path, which turns left and levels out. Ahead is an ornate sign inviting us to walk along a Permissive Path in Manners Wood. We decide to accept the offer.

This is a wide, level and easily walked path shielded by trees but offering tantalizing glimpses of the views beyond. It is probably an especially lovely place in Spring. Eventually we find somewhere to sit for lunch, up the slope a little and using a ground level branch to prevent us sliding down.

Out comes the secret flask with the Ramblers - it is our first walk of the New Year after all and we need to celebrate it in a suitable fashion - followed by coffee, sandwiches and our New Year Bun. It's the old stalwart, the fresh cream scone, but no worse for being familiar. The scones are eaten with alarming speed and relish before we finish off with another coffee.

Time to pack up and move on, so we continue on our way. At last the path splits, and we take the downward section which leads us to a couple of streams which we have to negotiate before depositing us on the edge of Bakewell Golf Course. After reading the signs exhorting us to take care we set off, only to see another sign next to a bell telling us to ring it to warn golfers of our presence. We race for the bell (well, lumber purposefully) and I win, giving it a loud ring to warn the non-existent golfers. I think we're the only people on the course!

However, once we've left the course and are following the path down to Bakewell, we look back and see a handful of golfers, so maybe they were just keeping out of our way.

We cross over the Monsal Trail bridge, then along the side of a field of sheep before seeing some animals in the adjoining field which we debate over. Are they llamas, or alpacas? We settle on alpacas, not that we have any specialist knowledge of them and are just as likely to be wrong as right.

At the bottom of the path we meet the road and it's only a short way to the car park. We've made excellent time, and it has turned out to be a good walk after all, leaving us time to go to look at an interesting arty shop on the edge of Bakewell before we leave. Next time we'll return to Bakewell, weather permitting, to walk the other way.