Mud Glorious Chatsworth Mud!

 Well, we certainly know how to pick them. We had an interesting 'new' walk planned but the dire weather had us doing a quick rethink so, after sitting out some of today's deluge in the car we headed for Chatsworth and the empty, sodden Calton Lees car park.

With a certain degree of reluctance we prepared ourselves for a modified walk where, we hoped, it wouldn't be too bad. Ah, if only we had known.

We stroled up the lane to Calton Lees and took the left hand road to a stile. Once over we realised that we hadn't intented to come this way (waterlogged brain is my excuse) but we decided it would be good to go this way as it will be a reverse walk for us.

The trees stood out very stark against the grey sky, but for now the rain had stopped, which was a bonus.

We could see the river a few fields away and how it had leeched out into the flood fields surrounding it creating large pools of cold grey water.

We were glad not to be crossing them - we would have needed to paddle!

It wasn't long before our slightly elevated path descended to river level, though, and by then we had reached the mud. Lots of it. Ooozy and sticky and slippery. And so much that it was impossible to avoid. This relatively short stretch of level ground took us rather longer to cross than we had thought possible.

Once the muddy path across the field was behind us we were a little better off, and when we came to the edge of the river we paused to look. I don't think either of us had seen it so high or so wide, the waters running far swifter than we were used to.

This path led us towards the village of Rowsley and for a brief period the sun came out. We turned sharpe right and started climbing uphill - at least we were on a pavement. The farm had a couple of young calves in a shelter next to the lane, and they appeared supremely unconcerned.

It didn't take long to leave the houses behind us as the lane wound upwards. We were heading for the shelter of some woods where we could eat lunch, but the woods had gone (though new saplings replanted) and the ominous gloom of rainclouds in the distance spurred us on to seek shelter.

We were lucky. Near the top of the incline, just after a left hand turn, we discovered a thick copse of conifers behind a broken fence. Gloomy and dark, but sheltered. A perfect spot.

We found an old large stump to sit on, relic of some woods before these, and enjoyed a peaceful lunch with coffee and creamy chocolate pots for pudding.

Only when we emerged, suitably replete, did we realise how fast it had been raining while we had been in shelter. No mind though, we were at the half way point and had to keep going.

The lane continued in a fairly straight line, then dipped and turned left, although the track on the right going uphill through woods was the one we wanted. And yes, it was slick with mud.

We managed the climb quite well though had to check the map a couple of times to make sure we didn't inadvertently end up following a path down to Bakewell.

As we arrived at the highest point of the woods the trees thinned, and the rain turned to lazy flakes of snow. There were pockets of snow on the ground, but the shelter the trees gave us made it feel warmer than it undoubtedly was.

We continued on the muddy path until it brought us out overlooking fields. We could see the Hunting Tower in the distance to our right. And very gloomy, snow covered hills to our left. Our path was straight on, and downhill, and - yes - muddy.

We made it to the bottom only to have to negotiate what appeared to be a large pond that had appeared at a gate above a fast flowing stream. But we were not to be deterred as we were on the home stretch now. 

We skirted around a stone wall then came to a gate that led us through  Calton Houses and down the track towards our start. The weather seemed to be clearing up.

That was, until we were a few hundred yards from the car park. It came down fast and hard, an absolute torrent of rain that meant we were completely soaked within a couple of minutes. We hurried as much as we could, though it clearly wasn't going to make any difference. All we could do was hurriedly make plans as we took off our bemuddied boots and clambered gratefully into the cars to head home to dry off.

CHATSWORTH, EDENSOR AND ABOVE BAKEWELL

After the week's birthday celebrations (PC is another year older and my daughter turned 18) we really need to get out to walk off the excess cake and wine. We've not done very well with planning these last few walks, and this is no exception. We wait until we meet in the car park at Calton Lees (no man in the hut mid-week at this time of year, so we don't have to pay for parking) before we plan our route.

We set off out of the car park and through the park, following the line of the road towards Edensor. In the park there are herds of deer, far enough away not to be troubled by a couple of walkers.

The House looks quite splendid today, the Emperor fountain is running and the mist that has been clinging to the valleys and hillsides is still there giving everything an ethereal glow. Sadly the picture doesn't translate well to photographs as it makes everything seem a little murky.

When we reach Edensor we eventually go through the person gate which is actually hinged centrally, top and bottom, so that it swings around. Quite a surprise!

Edensor is a very pretty village, relocated to its present site by the 6th Duke of Devonshire and with each cottage built in a different style. We walk up the main street, passing the church on our left hand side and admiring the cottages. They must look lovely in Spring and Summer when all the gardens are in flower.

At the top of the street the road gradually peters out and turns into a broad track which is accessible to traffic (evidenced by the deep ruts at various places along its length). It is a steady uphill walk, and we pause to enjoy some chocolate and admire the view over a field gate.

At the top of the track it rejoins a narrow tarmac road which eventually winds its way down to Bakewell. We walk along the road, crest the hill and can see the distant hills and edges bathed in late autumn light. The road dips and eventually we come to a left hand path. It is a bit muddy around the gate but we go over the stile and follow the track ahead.

Another stile and we are in a field of sheep. We head uphill towards a small stand of trees (Moatless Plantation) where there is a conveniently placed inviting bench facing down to Bakewell. We walk across the grass to it and settle down.

We haven't been sat long - in fact, we're only just starting on our nip of Ramblers - when we notice PC is playing host to a cluster of spiders (the collective noun for a group of spiders is cluster or clutter). They are only small and at first we think she must have disturbed a sac but then, when the sun shines on the grass in front of us we can see thousands of criss-crossed webs amongst the green. They are incredibly beautiful but so fine that it proves impossible to photo them. The small spiders have probably hitched a lift, or drifted to us on the breeze. We don't mind them at all, and carry on with our lunch.

Coffee, sandwiches for me, leftovers for PC, then the buns which are puff pastry mince pies with added fresh cream. Maybe a bit early for Christmas, but they do taste nice. We follow with our second coffee then prepare to leave.

The path goes downhill and heads towards a pond which, once we are on a lower level, we can no longer see. We almost walk off course when we see a glint of water and spot the footpath sign on a narrow gate. We go through the gate, cross a small field and go through a second gate which takes us onto the broad expanse of Calton Pastures.

This is a steady, easy stroll and we are very soon on the path above Calton Houses. Before we go through the gate and down the lane next to the houses we spend a little time trying to get some good photos of a tree which has a broken trunk but is still sprouting. Sadly the light isn't brilliant.

We walk down the lane past the houses then gradually descending down to Calton Lees village. The sun has gone now, and it has turned very chilly. Also the light is fading even though it doesn't seem to be particularly late.

Not far from the village and we are back at the car park, pleased that we have had such a good day out. The weather has stayed in our favour, but we're wondering how long that will last.

A GENTLE WALK AROUND CHATSWORTH

Well, we've done it. We've achieved the near impossible - we've actually chosen the one fine day this summer. No rain, hardly any clouds and the slightest possibility of a sun tan (OK, not much chance there but we are forever hopeful). The only downside to the day is that PC has injured her foot so we're keeping the walk steady (hence the choice being Chatsworth) and away from hard ground. At least that isn't too difficult given the amount of rain we've had recently.

We meet up in Calton Lees car park and duly pay the nice man in the kiosk who informs us cheerily that the rain is due back tomorrow and that we need to make the most of today. We don't need telling twice.

Mollie is back from her holidays and happy to be out of the car with the prospect of a good walk in front of her. We load our rucksacks with gear (coffee, buns and a waterproof coat - you never know when it might be needed) then debate on a route. We choose to leave the car park in the direction of the House but once we're through the gate at the side of the cattle grid we head uphill on the grass rather than crossing the road then walking down to the river.

We're so busy catching up on gossip that we hardly notice how steep the hill is. The narrow track is easy to follow though, as it is well worn by sheep. In parts it's quite boggy despite being on a sharp slope so we manage muddy boots, but at least PC is getting the soft ground she needs.

This is such easy strolling that we have loads of time to pause and admire the (sunny) scenery but even with plenty of looking around we're going too fast. What we need is somewhere to sit a while, and as we come up to the turn in the path which leads through the woods there are three benches lined up with their backs to the wall, facing the view. We head for the far one, it has a back rest, but it also has a huge puddle at its foot so we choose the second one instead and settle down with the secret flask. Raspberry Gin again today, a genuine taste of summer on a genuine summers day. It couldn't be better.

It would be easy to linger here for most of the day but we decide we ought to press on so we go through the gate and onto the wooded track leading gently uphill. 

 Mollie can run off the lead for a short distance, and she immediately finds a rock to play with before darting off to greet some other walkers. This can be a bit of a problem with Mollie. She's a beautiful, friendly dog who, unfortunately, treats obedience as optional and since she doesn't belong to us she doesn't seem to sense any permanence in our relationship. Hence, if she sees someone interesting she's off to investigate, possibly in the misplaced hope that it could be her owners or someone she is more attached to than us. After a quick greeting she's happy enough to return, but not until she's satisfied her curiosity, which is why she's usually kept on the lead. At least today's people were doggy-folk who, coincidentally, do the same as us and take someone else's dog for walks and thought Mollie delightful.

After that it's back on the lead for Mollie as we reach the top of the woods and go through the gate into the field beyond. There are lovely views here as we cross large field on the grassy track, dipping down to the gate near to Calton Houses and the rough track that takes us past them.

At the bottom we go through yet another gate where two small dogs yap ferociously as their owners sit in the sun, and we take a small spur of a track to a bench where we can sit out of yapping distance and eat lunch.

The sun is quite bright now as we have the first cup of coffee followed by sandwiches. Then come out the buns. PC's choice today, and she calls them her end-of-summer Wimbledon buns. Strawberry shortcakes: sweet shortcrust pastry, creme anglaise, juicy strawberries and fresh cream. They are eaten in complete, reverential silence. A second coffee finishes off lunch in a very civilised manner.

Once we've lingered we set off down the slope only to be approached by a couple who need some directions. They have a small card with a route on it, and an unopened OS map, but are wondering if they are on the right track. They aren't. By quite a considerable distance. They thought they were near the Emperor Lake above and behind the House, and were quite surprised that they weren't even on the right side of the river. After a discussion they decide to forgo the visit to the Lake and instead follow the path we've just walked then extend it down to either Edensor or the House. They asked if it was possible to get lost again, and we said no, use the House as a landmark. Easy. But we did wonder.....

We continued on our way down the sloping rough track with PC trying to walk on the grassy verge. There are plenty of people walking up the hill, not surprising given this one, fine day, and we can hear buzzards over to our left even though we can't see them. The stream is full and fast flowing, hardly surprising, and Mollie refuses to have a drink from the stone water trough, choosing to drink out of puddles instead. Typical dog.

At the bottom of the track we come out onto road at Calton Lees village, admire the gardens then pause to study one of the trees at the back of the garden centre which has heavy clusters of palest green papery flowers along its branches. It seems that it is probably the Hop Hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), but whatever it is it has been well worth seeing.

We're back at the car park far too early, so we dump some of our gear into the car and amble down to the river where we sit for a while enjoying the last of the day and watching ducks bobbing about on the fast flowing water.

We don't seem to have had much of a season this year with all kinds things conspiring to erode our walking time, and it's over all too quickly. The summer holidays are upon us but although we'll not be out on the hills together we will try to get some walking in with our families. By the time we meet up again (early September!) the long, stressful wait for exam results for our daughters will be over, and the next few years mapped out for them depending on those results. We're keeping our fingers crossed for them both but feel sure that their hard work will have paid off.

Until we return in September we hope that everyone has a lovely summer.

A CIRCUIT FROM CHATSWORTH TO CALTON LEES AND ROWSLEY AND BACK AGAIN

We're back after half-term but it seems to have been a much longer break. And we'd waiting until the last minute to plan this walk given the uncertainty of the weather at this time of year. But we needn't have bothered. The forecast is good and we're raring to go.

We park up in the Chatsworth Car Park at the Calton Lees end of the estate (close to the garden centre) and are pleased that the little man isn't in his hut demanding money. Probably too early in the year and his wages would undoubtedly come to more than the parking fees even though there seems to be an organised walk congregating here this morning.

Avoiding the growing group of walkers (we're solitary souls) we have a quick catch-up with events, show off the buns (later, later) and tog up. The waterproofs are packed, just in case, and Mollie is let out of the car. She turns her nose up at the prospect of dog biscuits but seems excited enough as the prospect of a fun walk.

We head off across the road and after a brief stop at the garden centre loos we walk in the direction of Calton Lees. There are a few snowdrops flowering on the narrow verge as we approach the few houses that make up this tiny hamlet. The path we need is the bridleway which runs straight ahead and, very gradually, uphill. At the side of the path are some trees and a wide, fast running stream. We're well and truly into catch-up-on-all-the-gossip mode now, which is fine as we don't have to do any map reading or stop to enjoy the views just yet.

Mollie seems to be pacing herself this time but she is very interested in drinking from puddles. We come up to a lovely stone water trough fed by a stream from the hillside so we take Mollie to it. She isn't interested, which shows that it isn't only horses that you can take to water, but not make them drink! She's far happier with the puddles.

As the path climbs we can look back over the widening views towards Beeley Moor. Pausing to enjoy the scenery gives us the opportunity to remove a layer too as it has become appreciably warmer.

We follow the path between the houses at Calton Houses, enjoying the sight of huge clumps of snowdrops while being spied on by a large fluffy black cat. Mollie doesn't see the cat, which is probably just as well.

At the top of the path we come to a gate, go through it (or in Mollie's case, under it) and turn left. The path skirts the woods at Calton Plantations then doubles back at the other side before heading across an upward sloping field. To begin with the path is very clear, but this is deceptive. Before long it peters out and we play guess-which-way-we-need-to-go-now, a common game that we're becoming quite proficient at. After a brief consultation with the map we see that we should be heading to the edge of some woods with a tumulus on our right. Yes, we can see the tumulus up ahead and set off confidently, only having to veer off course a little when we see the gate in the fence line.

We're right on the edge of the woods now, and the sun has come out, and there is a small wall with some very flat stones on top just at bum height. It really is an opportunity too good to miss so we sit down, break out the Ramblers and relax. Mollie has found a dog biscuit on the floor (fallen from my pocket) and devours it greedily so we toss her some more and she eats the lot. Contrary dog!

We sit for a long time enjoying the sun, the company, the mellowing effects of the Ramblers, the silence (OK, apart from our constant chatter) and that away-from-it-all feeling. Who needs exotic locations?

We debate staying in our comfy spot for lunch but decide to press on so we walk through the woods following the path as it brings us out at the top of Manners Wood where we have a view (through the trees) of the far side of the Wye Valley. It's very easy walking ahead, but there are some muddy patches we have to avoid, and we are definitely going downhill. Eventually we have a steep stretch that is just a bit slippery and we end up where we'd walked a few weeks ago, at the welcome sign to Manners Wood and the path leading towards Bakewell Golf course.

Ignoring that route we turn left and are soon going downhill once again, but this time the path is narrower and decidedly muddier. At one point - the boggiest, naturally - we meet the only other walkers we've seen since leaving Calton Lees and we have to splosh past each other.

At the bottom of the slope we emerge from the woods onto shingle roads and turn left through a gate and onto the bridleway leading to Rowsley. The sun really is shining now and it is so hard to believe that it's February and not May. I can't remember having ever removed so many layers at this time of year before! We are getting a little concerned that we haven't eaten yet but, just as we're beginning to fret, we see a huge tree trunk inviting us to sit and enjoy the view. So we do.

Out come the sandwiches, flask and buns. Yes, they're fresh cream scones along with a small pot of jam each (cherry for PC, strawberry for me). It feels so good to be sat in the sunshine having a picnic. Even Mollie is enjoying the last of the biscuits.

It is extremely tempting to while away the whole afternoon here, but since we've never done this walk before we can't be exactly certain how long it will take for us to get back, so we hoist our rucksacks onto our backs and continue on our way. We pass through the woods called Bouns Corner and as we turn right onto the walled track heading downhill we pause to admire the moss covered stones. Clearly there is little sun and a lot of moisture here as the moss is thick, springy and very strokeable.

It's a long track down towards Rowsley and this part of the village is very charming. The most we see of the village is when driving through, but here, near the church, it is quiet and tranquil. There are some farms at the bottom of the lane and at the side of one we notice the old green metal signpost for Calton Lees and the path we need to take.

Here it is seriously muddy, churned up by walkers, tractors and other farm machinery. Possibly even cattle too, but I don't want to think about that. The wide track goes under the old railway arch and continues ahead, easy to follow but still very muddy. On the right is the River Derwent flowing deceptively fast and deep.

Eventually the mud runs out and walking becomes easier again. Amongst the trees close to the river are a few clumps of snowdrops, whether naturalised or planted deliberately it is hard to know. Eventually we go over a gate and are in a long, broad field which follows the river. It is flat, mud-free and basking in the sun. When we come to a wall we realise that we haven't been following the proper path, a common occurrence it seems as the farmer has helpfully put up a sign directing walkers up the wall-line to the proper path.

Once on track again we go through the wide gap in the wall and continue straight ahead through all the sheep, some of them stamping in annoyance when they see Mollie. She, sensibly, ignores them. Ahead there is another stile to negotiate then a short, sharp uphill stretch. At the top we can stand by a tree and enjoy the wonderful views bathed in warm afternoon sunshine.

We go through a gap in the wall (thank goodness we don't have to climb the ladder stile next to it) then follow the wall down to Calton Lees. Fortunately we can go through a gate here instead as the stile doesn't look very welcoming (unless you have abnormally long legs). As we wander through the hamlet we are forced to stop and admire a beautiful garden complete with stream, summerhouse and swathes of snowdrops and bright yellow aconites.

It isn't a long way back to the car park now and as we get closer we realise that the sunshine has brought people out in droves. I bet the Duke wishes his little man was collecting parking fees after all.

It's really hard to head off home when the walk and the whole day has been so good, but duties call. Next week our walk will have to be much shorter - both in time and distance - but we don't intend to miss out altogether and are keeping our fingers crossed for another fine day.