Snow and heavy mists at Chatsworth

Worried that we wouldn't be able to get out walking we planned to park in Baslow as a fail safe. So far so good. But crossing the river at the start of the walk PC's camera refused to work. As a lucky chance I had my camera so this time I'm doing the pictures. As such there will be few words!

Crossing the bridge with the very chilly water running quite fast.

The park is looking bleak and the heavy mist is disguising the horizon. There are few people about, which isn's surprising.

A herd of deer in the distance are on the alert for us.

 

The sun is trying to break through making for an ethereal scene.

 

The heavy hoar frost weighs down the stems of the grasses making them look as though they have been laden with jewels.

 

A lonesome tree in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 This is the way we have walked, the path behind lost in the mists.

 Our stopping point for lunch. One of the old structures that lead water down towards the fountains at the house. Today it is encrusted with icicles. A bench next to it provides a good eating spot, but it is very very cold.

Look at the length of the icicles.

And walking back to the cars we see a heron in a field. Wonder if it has managed to catch anything other than cold feet.

ALL AROUND THE CHATSWORTH ESTATE - WELL, ALMOST

With another lucky turn of events PC is back home again for a short time and we're able to get out for a walk. We are being a bit cautious, at the moment I can't drive and have to rely on a 'chauffeur' to get me anywhere, so any walk has to be at 'my side' of the Peak District. Also, I'm just getting over a shoulder operation which means carrying my trusty rucksack (which has everything I could need or not need in it) is a definite no-no, a limiting factor when we rely on my rucksack for all emergency supplies. And, of course, I've only got one 'useable' arm at the moment.

So, I'm dropped off at the car park in Baslow where PC is already waiting and I transfer my meagre belongings to her car. Some I have in a bum-bag, the rest go into PC's rucksack. Then we drive through Chatsworth Park to the car park at Calton Lees which, since it is holiday season, is starting to fill up. We duly pay the parking fee - £3 this year, but it gives us all day without having to stick to a return time - and pay a quick visit to the loos in the garden centre. Then we're off.

Today we are dogless, which does make things easier, and PC is looking very fit since she has been accompanying her husband on some of his training walks for his trip to do the West Highland Way next month. My fitness levels, needless to say, are not what they were.

We take the slope down to the road from the garden centre entrance and cross over the bridge, avoiding the holiday traffic. From here there is a short walk on the narrow verge until we turn away from the road and go left at Beeley Lodge where we climb up the narrow lane towards Beeley Hilltop. The sun is out and the views are, naturally, superb. In fact, it is good to pause in the shade from time to time as it is getting quite warm, certainly warm enough to walk minus fleeces and layers.

The track that runs up from Beeley Hilltop is extremely rutted, probably due to its use by 4x4s as well as farm vehicles. It's fine on foot though, providing you don't get a loose stone under your boot.

It's a lovely walk up here, surprisingly quiet too as we don't see anyone else. The views are far reaching but there is a heat haze which gives them a fuzzy blur to spoil photographs. 

Once past the edge of Hell Bank Plantation (what a name!) we take the stone stile next to the gate leading onto Rabbit Warren. Fortunately I get over this obstacle without any problems even though I'm only using one hand. 

At the far side of the stile we pause as a wave of scent hits us. The heather on the moors is currently in bloom with swathes of purple and lilac wherever we look, but the floral honey scent of the blossoms was quite unexpected. It is certainly something I have never experienced and can only assume that the warm weather has brought out the best in the blooms. After all, whenever we have walked through heather before it has tended to be dull or raining, or both.

It is a very pleasant path across Rabbit Warren and we see quite a few people here, a sign of the holiday season. At the end of the path we have another high stile to cross, and again it poses no problems. I'm feeling quite pleased with myself!

Our usual route through here is by turning left along a small track, but today we follow the more obvious track around to the right, then at the crossroads of tracks we go straight ahead. There are lots more people now and some are quite noisy.

The track takes us on a loop of a walk to arrive at Swiss Lake - or rather, the remains of Swiss Lake. The last time we were here the lake was full and had wildfowl on it. Today it is a muddy mess, drained of water and with a sparse covering of weeds. At the far side the stone walls have flapping drapes of black polythene - not terribly attractive and seemingly serving no useful purpose whatsoever.

Continuing on for some way we see the Emperor Lake through the trees, at least this seems to be full. We walk down to it but there isn't anywhere to sit just here, though we can see that we have missed the usual spot and go back to the road to walk around a little. Then we see a newly constructed feeder pond/lake next to the track which feeds directly into the Emperor Lake. Is this the reason for the Swiss Lake's demise? It may well be, and whilst it is probably more effective it certainly isn't particularly attractive being functional rather than aesthetic.


We walk down to the Lake and find that the single bench is vacant - perfect. So, coffee (not the best, alas) and sandwiches followed by cream doughnuts - all of which went down very well.

After our leisurely lunch we return to the track and continue to follow it, we pass the Hunting Tower tucked into the trees and start to lose some of the other walkers as they veer off down towards the house. We continue on the main track and ignore the path down to the left which would take us into the park.

We've never actually taken this route before so even in somewhere as familiar as Chatsworth we are finding something new. The track comes to a halt at a field gate but to the left of it is a narrow path which leads to another stile over a high wall. At the far side of this there is a small white arrow (permissive path) and a clear track across Dobb Edge.

Wow! the views open out and we have a vista in front of us that we haven't seen before. Far ahead are the Three Ships and Nelson's Monument on Birchen Edge and Baslow is down to the left. There is a ladder stile in front of us which, undoubtedly, will lead us to the Robin Hood on the A619 to Chesterfield, but there is also a path leading downhill on our left. We choose the left hand path.

Up on the hill to our left - we must have missed seeing it on our way down - is a huge rock structure which may be Jubilee Rock. We continue downhill though and emerge, as we suspected, into the main Chatsworth Park. From here we meander in the general direction of the House.

As we are continuing in our vague downhill and left direction we spot a herd of young male deer sheltering in a copse of trees. We try to skirt around them without disturbing them as we head for a small stile over the wire fence, but the deer see us and take flight, leaping over the fence as though it isn't there. We cross the fence via the stile with much less grace!

It's a fair distance across this part of the park to the house, and as we get closer to the stately home we see the reflected gleams of hundreds of cars in the extended car parks and we start to see a few more people taking a gentle stroll within easy reach of their vehicles.

At the car parks PC heads for the plush loos whilst I go to buy us ice creams. Large (very large) 99s. Naughty, but very nice!

We eat our ice creams as we walk down through the cars and over the bridge where we pause to admire the Emperor Fountain and remark (again) on the gilding around the windows of the house.

Over the bridge and we have the final walk across the park to complete. It is here that there are the most people - other than those up close to the house and visiting that and the gardens. Still, Chatsworth is a big place and huge numbers of people can be accommodated without taking up all the space.

It doesn't take long for us to reach the car park at Calton Lees where we sit and enjoy a little more of the sunshine before setting off. It has been great to get out, and having a familiar walk with some new places added on is a distinct bonus.

INTO THE WOODS AND SOMEWHERE DIFFERENT

After our walk last week we decided to go for one that we had done, in part, before but had not managed to complete the whole circuit due to bad weather. With a fair wind and reasonable chance of sunshine we meet in the car park at Baslow before I lead the way to the parking spot near Ramsley Reservoir at Shillito Wood.

There are quite a few cars here today, and we do wonder if there is some kind of organised event going on, but before we have finished togging up a couple of the cars leave and it becomes much quieter. As we remarked last week, this is peak holiday season so we shouldn't be too surprised to see more people about.

We head off 'Into The Woods' (thank you Meryl Streep et al) where the going underfoot is soft and springy. The old cross is on our right as we walk diagonally to the bottom corner where we leave the woods and cross over the road to the gate at the other side.

Almost immediately on our left we see in the grass on of the inscribed artist stones that we have photographed before on our walks. This one is starting to look a little weathered, but the moss growing on it gives it a rugged charm.






We only take a couple of steps before we see a pair of horses and their riders coming towards us along the track at a brisk canter. Prudently we stand to one side but fortunately the riders rein back to a walk as they approach and we pass a friendly 'good morning' before heading on our way.

The track is wide and easy to follow, used by walkers, riders and by woodland management vehicles. Foxlane Plantation and Ramsley Moor are on our left and a little further on there is the steeper slope of Hewetts Bank, but for now the track is fairly straight and level, though a little muddy in a few places. There is a sparse covering of birch trees with denser woodland to the right.

It doesn't take us very long to arrive at the gate onto Car Road (which is a bridleway at this point) and we realise that if we do our planned walk we will be back at the car park in no time. It is time for a re-think, and a quick scan of the map gives us an alternative, so we set off up Car Road towards Unthank then turn left onto the next footpath, which takes us into Smeekley Wood.

The stream on our left is very attractive, and running quite fast. There is also a very convenient fallen tree next to it, so we decide to stop for a coffee break which, naturally, ends up lasting long enough to turn into lunch time. 

Coffee, sandwiches and fat fresh cream scones do nothing for the waistline, but contribute greatly to a sense of contentment and satisfaction.

We spend some time sat on our log before deciding to move off along the woodland path. It is wide enough to follow easily, although these woods are clearly used by locals who know their way and have made myriad shortcuts and small paths that are ready to snare the unwary. We make sure we keep an eye on where we are going with constant references to the map.

These are very attractive woods with streams running through, a variety of trees and some fallen trees too. We wonder if there are bluebells in spring.

As we continue we do spot something on a tree ahead, and as we near it we see that it is Tinky Winky of Teletubbies fame fastened to a tree. Whether he is a lost toy fixed there by a kindly passer-by so that it can be easily spotted by its owner, or some kind of bizarre sacrificial victim, we really couldn't say. Of course, it does set us off remembering children's TV, both of our era and that of our children.



There is a slight hesitation as we consult the map again, we have a gate ahead and a bridge on our right, but the ahead path is the one we need as it skirts Bank Wood and, after crossing meadow, brings us onto Horsleygate Road.

It is only a short walk down Horsleygate Road to Eweford Bridge and from here we decide to take the footpath, marked on the map, which cuts out a huge bend in the road and takes us up towards Unthank and Unthank Hall. However, the start of the path takes some finding, it isn't signed and only a derelict gate hints at the way, and then we have to wade through overgrown brambles and weeds for quite a distance until we cross a rickety stile beyond which walking becomes a little easier. The path still isn't clear on the ground, and an absence (deliberate or otherwise) of signposts mean the map is crucial, but we follow what we hope is the path, through a gate and a couple of fields, eventually climbing slowly upwards.

Eventually the way does become a little clearer as another path joins from the right, and we go through fields that are used to graze horses as we head towards the road. Just as we reach it we see an interesting water trough for the animals: complete with goldfish.

We come out onto Unthank Lane across from the Hall, turn right and begin the steady uphill slog along the road and past Burrs Wood. It has become very warm, and quite humid too, so we are soon taking off layers and having to rest. It isn't particularly difficult walking but the combination of heat and humidity soon saps the energy. It's a good job we still have plenty to talk about.

As the road rises up and beyond the wood there are fields to either side of us, and everything becomes very level again. There is hardly any traffic and the circulation of a breeze makes the walking easier. It is a straight road now, taking us to Far Lane where we turn right and come to Shillito Wood again. We pause to admire a 'den' built with branches and sticks, which even has the luxury of a seat inside, before heading back to the car park.

So it hasn't been quite the walk we had originally planned, but it has turned into a better one. The last part was a bit of a slog, road walking always is, and accompanied with the heat and humidity it was never going to be pleasant, but we have had a really good day out and ventured to places we haven't visited before.

How long it will be before our next walk, though, is something we can't plan for just now.

ROBIN HOOD TO WELLINGTON AND CHATSWORTH

Another last minute choice for us today, basically a route we have done before, but in reverse and chosen because it is at 'my end' of the Peak District as I have to meet a train at a certain time this afternoon.

So we meet up in the almost deserted car park next to the Robin Hood pub at the intersection of the A619 & B6050. The car park is free to use for members of the NT or RSPB, so we are spared the fee.

Before we gear up we do our bit for recycling: swapping clothes that are outgrown, no longer suit, or no longer fit. Between ourselves and our daughters we manage a few good wardrobes changes through the year.

With Mollie eager to go we go through the gate to the pub and cross their car park and onto the main road, heading towards Baslow. A short distance past the farm we clamber over the stile in the wall and into the large moorland field which is, in places, boggy underfoot.

This has an easy gradient, and a large but mostly obscured enclosure (possibly bronze age though I have been unable to obtain details), along with a few spindly birch trees. There are also ponies and horses grazing but they are not interested in us.

We cross through into the next field area and start the very slow descent across rocky ground and through trees beneath Gardom's Edge. As we approach the main Sheffield road (A621) we meet our first walker out for the day.

It's a narrow stile onto the road, but once across we go through onto a wide track that cuts down to Bar Brook and crosses the small bridge beneath the much larger bridge leading to the picturesque house high on the opposite bank.


We wind our way up the steps (pausing to admire the house's lovely gardens even though we only have a glimpse) and into the woods at Jack Flat. We keep on walking upwards, the path is fairly clear most of the time and there is a drystone wall on our left to guide us. 

We are soon looking for a path to take us up to the ridge where Wellington's Monument stands but none of the tracks look particularly inspiring. Finally we find a steep (very) path uphill and go for it. With the help of a few trees we hoist ourselves up and emerge a little further along than we had intended, but within sight of an enticing bench for lunch.

Once settled we start off with a nip from the secret flask (strawberry vodka) we have a coffee (spiced vanilla latte) followed by sandwiches/salad then our buns (custard danish) and mince pies washed down with more coffee. We are certainly building ourselves up for the festive season.

Suitably replete - and feeling more in need of a post-lunch nap than a walk - we set off again before the chilly breeze makes us even colder. It is all downhill now on the wide, rutted track and we eventually make it back to Baslow village. 

Here we wind through the streets until we come out at the main road (and the conveniently placed conveniences) where we once again take the back lane over the river then right past the cottages (Were these used in the film version of Pride and Prejudice, PC wonders?) and into Chatsworth Park.

We turn left and follow the fence line for a short distance until we turn uphill to cross the entry road, which is lined with coaches waiting for the numerous day-trippers in the house itself, and continue to the stile in the fence line and past a huge flock of disinterested sheep.

The grassy track is wide and easy to follow and soon we are at the extremely high steps-in-the-wall stile which takes us onto a broad wooded path. We are making good time now as the path runs parallel to the road, an eventually we veer left to go down a muddy path to the sturdy bridge over Heathy Lea Brook.

Once over the bridge we negotiate the very steep steps up to the road, pleased that we weren't doing these downhill as they are muddy and slippery. At the busy road we cross over then it is only a short walk back to the cars in the car park.

Surprisingly we have made far better time than we anticipated and are able to pause for a chat before it is time to set off again. Our next walk will be our last before Christmas intervenes so we have fingers crossed for good weather.

CHATSWORTH'S WINTER WONDERLAND

A SIMPLE STROLL AROUND A SNOWY SCENE

We're back in action. After being hampered by holidays and illness we are staging a comeback, and aren't about to be put off by the presence of a few inches of snow. However, given that some roads still have a lethal amount of ice on their untreated surfaces we are opting for the safe option of Chatsworth.

We pull into Baslow car park only to find it covered in ice and with a lot of cars arriving for an organised walk. At PC's suggestion we move out and decide to try the main house car park at Chatsworth, hopefully avoiding the high probability of one of the very worried looking drivers running into us!

Fortunately we arrive at Chatsworth on clear roads with gritted access. Even the car park has been ploughed, and since the little man isn't in his kiosk to collect his £3 we don't have to pay.

It takes us a while to gear up, pulling on sufficient layers to keep out the chill and wet.

We amble up towards the Stables area, find it virtually empty apart from some workmen at the toilets and ducks on the frozen water feature. Then we take one of the well-cleared paths down the car park towards the main house entrance and park.

There are plenty of photo opportunities today, the whole landscape is transformed and the structure of Capability Brown's design really seems to come to the fore.

The River Derwent winding along the front of the House is iron grey providing stark contrast to the white blanket of snow punctuated by the near-black silhouettes of the trees.

We pause to have a look at Queen Mary's Bower, constructed in the 1550s by Bess of Hardwick and reputedly named for Mary Queen of Scots who was briefly held prisoner at Chatsworth in 1569 with the Bower being one of her favourite spots.

We come to the bridge where two Japanese tourists are taking dozens of photographs. We take a couple before moving on. In the distance we spot a herd of deer but they are too far away to see clearly.

At this point we have to make a decision. We don't actually have a plan and we need to have some kind of idea of where we are going to walk. It doesn't take us long to decide to 'make it up as we go along' so we head off uphill towards the deer, the snow deep and pristine apart from a few animal tracks.

As we trudge higher - walking in deep snow isn't the easiest surface - we are getting better views behind us to the house and the majestic Emperor Fountain which is reaching straight up into the wind-free sky.

We circle behind the deer, who keep a cautious distance, and find a bench - snow covered but with a good view. PC suggests we stop for a coffee, I readily agree. We have to clear the bench first then, of course, we have a nip from one of the secret flasks (which aren't really so secret after all), and PC gets to hers first, so it's Cointreau. Lovely and orangey and warming on such a cold day. The coffee is very welcome too, but by the time we've finished it we realise that it is past noon, so we quickly eat our sandwiches but save the buns for later.

Leaving the bench behind - ready cleared for the next walker wanting to pause - we head towards Edensor village. The slope down to it looks very inviting, if potentially lethal, and a couple are sledging. What a shame we don't have a sledge, it looks such fun!

When we arrive at the snow covered path we turn left back towards the house, then deviate through the trees, cross the road and start walking through what we consider to be the main part of the park in front of the house. Ahead are another herd of deer and as PC waits with Mollie I decide to try to get a little closer to them.

It is hard to stay hidden in snow and the deer watch me suspiciously as I slowly walk towards them - hiding behind conveniently placed trees doesn't fool them one bit. But I do manage to get quite close even though I am being constantly watched. They obviously decide that I'm not much of a threat, armed only with a rucksack and a camera.

Once the deer have been snapped we return to our amble. We're keeping higher on the hill and soon find another convenient bench (there are quite a few dotted around) and the lure of buns becomes too great to ignore.

On the bench we fetch out the fresh cream eclairs which are, as PC momentously points out, the perfect shape for eating when on a walk. No fiddling, messing or crumbling. Just total, unfussy indulgence. We finish the coffee then set off again towards the Mill. Before we reach it, though, we spot a heron on top of the weir and manage a photo before it flies away.

The Old Corn Mill, built in 1760 and in use until 1950, still has the old rusty remains of its last wheel in situ. Today we can hear, and see, the water rushing through it.

We have a brief detour to the garden centre toilets then set off back, this time keeping to the riverside as we walk. There are a few more walkers out now, and near the river are the sagging remains of snowmen and an igloo built over the last few days by eager and optimistic visitors.

It is very soggy underfoot in places, the snow manages to hide it until you step on the waterlogged surface, but it isn't too bad. By this time, mid-afternoon, it is starting to feel colder as daylight is being leeched out of the sky.

We aren't long, though, before we're walking over the bridge and back up the drive towards the car park. Activity is slowing here as people are heading away and we soon follow them.

It has been a good day; PC can still feel the effects of her virus but the walk has been just enough for her without over-exerting herself, and it has been worth the effort to see the snow in the park.