ALL AROUND THE CHATSWORTH ESTATE - WELL, ALMOST

With another lucky turn of events PC is back home again for a short time and we're able to get out for a walk. We are being a bit cautious, at the moment I can't drive and have to rely on a 'chauffeur' to get me anywhere, so any walk has to be at 'my side' of the Peak District. Also, I'm just getting over a shoulder operation which means carrying my trusty rucksack (which has everything I could need or not need in it) is a definite no-no, a limiting factor when we rely on my rucksack for all emergency supplies. And, of course, I've only got one 'useable' arm at the moment.

So, I'm dropped off at the car park in Baslow where PC is already waiting and I transfer my meagre belongings to her car. Some I have in a bum-bag, the rest go into PC's rucksack. Then we drive through Chatsworth Park to the car park at Calton Lees which, since it is holiday season, is starting to fill up. We duly pay the parking fee - £3 this year, but it gives us all day without having to stick to a return time - and pay a quick visit to the loos in the garden centre. Then we're off.

Today we are dogless, which does make things easier, and PC is looking very fit since she has been accompanying her husband on some of his training walks for his trip to do the West Highland Way next month. My fitness levels, needless to say, are not what they were.

We take the slope down to the road from the garden centre entrance and cross over the bridge, avoiding the holiday traffic. From here there is a short walk on the narrow verge until we turn away from the road and go left at Beeley Lodge where we climb up the narrow lane towards Beeley Hilltop. The sun is out and the views are, naturally, superb. In fact, it is good to pause in the shade from time to time as it is getting quite warm, certainly warm enough to walk minus fleeces and layers.

The track that runs up from Beeley Hilltop is extremely rutted, probably due to its use by 4x4s as well as farm vehicles. It's fine on foot though, providing you don't get a loose stone under your boot.

It's a lovely walk up here, surprisingly quiet too as we don't see anyone else. The views are far reaching but there is a heat haze which gives them a fuzzy blur to spoil photographs. 

Once past the edge of Hell Bank Plantation (what a name!) we take the stone stile next to the gate leading onto Rabbit Warren. Fortunately I get over this obstacle without any problems even though I'm only using one hand. 

At the far side of the stile we pause as a wave of scent hits us. The heather on the moors is currently in bloom with swathes of purple and lilac wherever we look, but the floral honey scent of the blossoms was quite unexpected. It is certainly something I have never experienced and can only assume that the warm weather has brought out the best in the blooms. After all, whenever we have walked through heather before it has tended to be dull or raining, or both.

It is a very pleasant path across Rabbit Warren and we see quite a few people here, a sign of the holiday season. At the end of the path we have another high stile to cross, and again it poses no problems. I'm feeling quite pleased with myself!

Our usual route through here is by turning left along a small track, but today we follow the more obvious track around to the right, then at the crossroads of tracks we go straight ahead. There are lots more people now and some are quite noisy.

The track takes us on a loop of a walk to arrive at Swiss Lake - or rather, the remains of Swiss Lake. The last time we were here the lake was full and had wildfowl on it. Today it is a muddy mess, drained of water and with a sparse covering of weeds. At the far side the stone walls have flapping drapes of black polythene - not terribly attractive and seemingly serving no useful purpose whatsoever.

Continuing on for some way we see the Emperor Lake through the trees, at least this seems to be full. We walk down to it but there isn't anywhere to sit just here, though we can see that we have missed the usual spot and go back to the road to walk around a little. Then we see a newly constructed feeder pond/lake next to the track which feeds directly into the Emperor Lake. Is this the reason for the Swiss Lake's demise? It may well be, and whilst it is probably more effective it certainly isn't particularly attractive being functional rather than aesthetic.


We walk down to the Lake and find that the single bench is vacant - perfect. So, coffee (not the best, alas) and sandwiches followed by cream doughnuts - all of which went down very well.

After our leisurely lunch we return to the track and continue to follow it, we pass the Hunting Tower tucked into the trees and start to lose some of the other walkers as they veer off down towards the house. We continue on the main track and ignore the path down to the left which would take us into the park.

We've never actually taken this route before so even in somewhere as familiar as Chatsworth we are finding something new. The track comes to a halt at a field gate but to the left of it is a narrow path which leads to another stile over a high wall. At the far side of this there is a small white arrow (permissive path) and a clear track across Dobb Edge.

Wow! the views open out and we have a vista in front of us that we haven't seen before. Far ahead are the Three Ships and Nelson's Monument on Birchen Edge and Baslow is down to the left. There is a ladder stile in front of us which, undoubtedly, will lead us to the Robin Hood on the A619 to Chesterfield, but there is also a path leading downhill on our left. We choose the left hand path.

Up on the hill to our left - we must have missed seeing it on our way down - is a huge rock structure which may be Jubilee Rock. We continue downhill though and emerge, as we suspected, into the main Chatsworth Park. From here we meander in the general direction of the House.

As we are continuing in our vague downhill and left direction we spot a herd of young male deer sheltering in a copse of trees. We try to skirt around them without disturbing them as we head for a small stile over the wire fence, but the deer see us and take flight, leaping over the fence as though it isn't there. We cross the fence via the stile with much less grace!

It's a fair distance across this part of the park to the house, and as we get closer to the stately home we see the reflected gleams of hundreds of cars in the extended car parks and we start to see a few more people taking a gentle stroll within easy reach of their vehicles.

At the car parks PC heads for the plush loos whilst I go to buy us ice creams. Large (very large) 99s. Naughty, but very nice!

We eat our ice creams as we walk down through the cars and over the bridge where we pause to admire the Emperor Fountain and remark (again) on the gilding around the windows of the house.

Over the bridge and we have the final walk across the park to complete. It is here that there are the most people - other than those up close to the house and visiting that and the gardens. Still, Chatsworth is a big place and huge numbers of people can be accommodated without taking up all the space.

It doesn't take long for us to reach the car park at Calton Lees where we sit and enjoy a little more of the sunshine before setting off. It has been great to get out, and having a familiar walk with some new places added on is a distinct bonus.

IN SEARCH OF AUTUMN COLOUR

AN UNSEASONAL VISIT TO CHATSWORTH


We're well into autumn now, not our usual time of year for visiting the grounds of Derbyshire's most prominent stately home since we tend to reserve its easily accessible parking for more unpredictable weather, but we were wanting to try to catch some autumn colour. We've missed some walking again - holidays and viruses - so we have fingers firmly crossed that the trees  have held out just enough for some good photos.

We park in the Calton Lees car park, pleased that the little man isn't collecting money on this bitterly cold morning, and attempting to avoid the massed ranks of an organised walk. We hope they aren't going our way.

By the time we have donned our many layers the group has disappeared and we meander down to the garden centre loos before setting off. We have Mollie with us today, and she's raring to go.

We drop down to the road bridge over the River Derwent as two dogs at the adjacent cottage bark frantically at us and chase us along the fence line. The Alsatian looks as though it means it, but we can't really take the giant poodle seriously! Mollie ignores them both.

At the far side of the bridge we walk up the road and turn left at the side of Beeley Lodge and take the lane that rise up to Beeley Hilltop. We're able to see some good colour in the trees when we turn to look back, but it isn't as spectacular as we had hoped.

We continue upwards past the farm and onto the rough, rutted "other route with public access" - which tends to mean vehicular access. Fortunately we see no 4x4s today and we pause half way up to admire the view towards Matlock with the sun illuminating the hills.

At the top of the lane we clamber over the extremely high stile onto the path through Rabbit Warren. 

We're very exposed here and we feel the intense chill of the wind. And rain clouds are gathering too.

When we reach the end of the path we climb another high stile to enter the woods at the top of the Chatsworth estate. 

Here we are in a beech grove and these trees do not disappoint with their burnished brassy leaves.

We decide to walk along the top path towards the ponds, something we have never done at this time of year, and we're surprised at how soon we come to Swiss Lake. There are some ducks bobbing about on the water but there is nowhere for us to sit so we press on until we come to the Emperor Lake, which ultimately feeds the Emperor fountain in the grounds of the House.

There is a bench here, so we sit down as Mollie investigates the water and keeps the ever-hopeful ducks away. Coffee first, to warm us up, then our sandwiches before the buns. This week PC had only a limited choice, so it's chocolate and vanilla cupcakes. They look very good, but sadly don't quite live up to their promised delights, although they redeem themselves slightly by having gooey chocolate in the centre of the vanilla bun. We finish off with more coffee then set off again. It's very cold sat here and we're both feeling the chill.

The path takes us past the hunting tower, now (we believe) used as a holiday cottage, and continue on until we reach a left hand track which drops down to a wall beyond which is the parkland.

Once in the park the sun comes out and it feels surprisingly warm after the chill of the woods. Sadly it doesn't last very long and by the time we reach the house the sun has disappeared.

The car park to the house is full and we wonder if it is time for the Christmas decorations to be up yet. We drop down to the bridge, cross over then set off across the park.

The house is on our left on the opposite side of the river, and we see the gilded window frames glistening in the weak sunlight. We're not sure if the expensive gold leaf suits the house, or just looks trashy. It certainly makes a statement!

We take the straight route above the river and soon find ourselves on the road a few yards away from the cattle grid next to the Calton Lees car park and only a short stretch from the cars.

We've done quite well with our aim of finding some colour, though the trees are by no means as spectacular as they have been in previous years. Maybe we've just mis-timed it, though we tend to think that it isn't a particularly good year for colour.

Next week we hope to go exploring somewhere new again!