A LONG WAY TO HOPE CROSS

We've decided on something a bit more challenging today. For too long we've been playing safe, acutely aware of our lack of fitness and time constraints. So, enough of that, today we're making the most of it!

We squeeze into the full lay-by next to Yorkshire Bridge Inn and start off with our usual swapping session (including an old fashioned ginger beer plant). It starts to rain so we wait it out with a piece of Key Lime Pie and a drink of ginger beer. That sets us up nicely, then it's onward and onward.

We cross over the dam wall and look down it's chilly length. There's always a stiff breeze blowing here, but we suspect that there'll be little good weather today.

We turn right and set off at the side of the reservoir. We haven't gone too far before we reach the track we usually come back down on and make the decision to go up that way instead and do our walk in reverse. Well, it seems like a good idea!

We go up, through the gate at the top, and pause. Is it an age thing? We can't remember how we usually approach this point - and we've been here loads of times. The map is of minimal help, the paths on paper not quite matching those on the ground.

We strike off to the right and then veer left, eventually going through a metal gate. The first wisps of familiarity disappear as we realise we have never been here before. Never mind, it's going in the right direction, more or less.

The path is quite boggy in places, and brings us to an old derelict building. It has wonderful views, but poor access and needs a bit of work doing to bring it up to modern standards!

We head on upwards and come to the fence line beneath Win Hill. We may not be on the path we planned but we've arrived where we need to be.

From here it's a long walk following the line between moorland and forest. In places it is waterlogged, in others it is stony underfoot. 

The path undulates with some quite large dips and rises and we even get a glimmer of blue sky, but it doesn't last. The views from here, though, are superb.

Further along we have a number of options; go down, go on, go to the Roman road, go backwards and up Win Hill. The sheep scrutinize us as we quickly decide to keep going. We'll reach the Roman road soon enough, and our target is Hope Cross.

And after more walking than we recall (why are distances distorted when you do a route in reverse?) we see the cross standing aloof next to the path.

We only pause briefly to look at it before finding the path into the woods. At last we find something to sit on out of the wind to enjoy a late lunch. The Key Lime Pie and ginger beer certainly kept us going! Today's treat is scratched cinnamon swirl bun. Nice and chewy, but I would have liked more cinnamon.

Once we've done we head off again, it's too cold to linger. We're going steadily downhill now, and past the ridge and furrow land under the trees. They look very ethereal given the dark gloom of the woods here.

At the bottom we turn right through the muddy patch that was once the front yard of another derelict building. There's heavy moss growth on the old gateposts and a sense of nature reclaiming everything.

We walk through the trees, and the views open out again. It's downhill and a bit muddy, and we're surprised how far we still have to walk - this is usually behind us on the outbound stretch so it's not our usual view.

It's levellish ground though, and no challenge, especially as we still have plenty to talk about (nothing new there). But the sky is dull and we've had the best of the day. No pause when we get back to the cars, it's been a long walk and we can't hang around. But it's certainly been worth it.

WINTER WALK UNDER WINHILL

This is our pre-Christmas walk, from now life just becomes too hectic to allow us the indulgence of escaping for a day, so we intend to make the most of it.

Of course, the best laid plans and all that...I overlay (my alarm didn't go off, I'd set it for the wrong day!) so am half an hour late, but I'd managed to let PC know so at least she wasn't waiting in the the cold for me.

We park on the main A57 near the Yorkshire Bridge Inn after visiting the facilites at Heatherdene first. Our usual parking spot is full, there are a few walkers out today, but there is another pull-in a little further down. 

Then I discover that in my rush I have left my boots, and I am only wearing canvas sneakers. Fortunately PC is wearing stout walking shoes so she lets me borrow hers, or it would have been a very short walk!

We have Mollie today, but she isn't happy next to the road so we hurry up and head for the path over the end of the Ladybower reservoir. There's a keen wind blowing across the water which makes it feel even colder. At the end of the path is a large group of people, and as we approach we see that it is a party of youths with a leader. At least they are all dressed properly for the outdoors so it must be a well organised group.

Once we are off the reservoir path we turn right with our 'make it up as we go along' attitude. There is a straggling group of much older walkers coming towards us, they must have set out early to be on their way back already, even given that we are later than planned.

It is an easy stroll along the wide path at the side of the reservoir, not taxing on legs or route-finding. We reach a path that leads into the Wiseman Hey Clough plantation and think 'why not?', so head on upwards. 

It is a distinct path to begin with though it eventually deteriorates into a weed strewn, branch tangled mess. We press on, though, slowly climbing upwards. We know where we want to go (upwards) so despite the confusing array of paths, half-paths and sheep tracks we continue in pursuit of our goal.

We see a stone wall and head towards it, climbing steeply uphill,  only to see a distinct path a little higher up. We reach it and follow its dips and curves as it heads slowly (and easily) up the hillside. We disturb a trio of sheep, their backs purple sploged with the farmer's mark, from their shelter amongst the trees. Surely they are supposed to be on the moor.

Eventually the path emerges from the trees at a distinct corner that I immediately recognise. The only issue is that we are on the 'wrong side' of the high wire fence and their isn't an easy way across. Not to worry though, others have clearly been faced with the same dialemma as their is a faint but obvious path at this side of the fence, and I know that there is a stile or gate further up beneath Win Hill.

We press on upwards, and there are some superb, far reaching views from up here. It was certainly worth the effort.

We reach the gate, and find that we have options. No, we don't want to go up Win Hill today, not go back the way we came. We could go directly downhill, back to the reservoir but it seems too early for that (and probably too slippery, we know that path) so we go through the gate and turn left.

Surprisingly we haven't been on this short stretch of path before, which forms the base of the triangle with two other paths leading up to the summit of Win Hill. The path runs next to a small plantation which seems ideal for a place to stop. So we clamber over a broken wall and find a convenient fallen tree to sit on. 

Now it is time for lunch, and a celebratory mini bottle of vino that just happened to be in the car boot. Well, it is nearly Christmas. And still in the Christmas spirit our buns for the day are fresh cream mince pies. Definitely a worthwhile celebration, especially with the coffee to finish warming us up.

When we set off again we soon reach the familar, well used path that is the usual route up Win Hill, but we turn downhill instead. There is a broad path to the left almost immediately, and we take that rather than the steep and slippery route down Parkin Clough. This path is much easier, although there is a tree down over the path and we have to clamber over the end of it. Also we have to get out of the way of a cyclist who clearly doesn't know (or chooses to ignore) that he has no right of way on a footpath.

It is a pleasant stroll downhill, the trees shelter us from the worst of the wind and there isn't too much mud. We turn sharp right at The Springs through another gateway and are soon on the main track next to the reservoir. There is the tantalising smell of woodsmoke in the air where forestry workers are clearing away old timber.

Very quickly we reach the path over the reservoir again, and we discover an information board with a speaker to give a verbal history. Sadly the wind is too loud to hear the narrator properly although we do catch the odd word being carried away as we walk off.

In no time we are back at the cars having really enjoyed our walk. I return PC's boots to her, and it is time to go. We've been really lucky with the weather (it starts to rain within 10 minutes of me getting home) and we wonder what will greet us in the new year.

So, it is the end of another year's walking.

Merry Christmas to everyone out there, and a properous New Year.

LADYBOWER TO THORNHILL - MAKE IT UP AS WE GO ALONG

Our planning for today went a little awry, so it was a last minute decision to meet up at Yorkshire Bridge then make it up as we went along. Not usually the best way to sort out a walk but we were confident that we would come up with something worthwhile.

 

To start with the lay-by at Yorkshire Bridge is closed. The County Council's end of year rush to spend their road repair budget has targeted this lay-by (among many other stretches of the drive here!) which means driving up to the Heatherdene car park (excellent toilets but now a Pay and Display) and re-planning. Fortunately there is a lay-by a little higher up near the fishing centre, so we duly head there to park.

Already it is getting windy, blowing papers out of PC's car boot which then have to be chased down the road and recaptured. And it is pretty chilly, but the sky is clear and if it is going to rain it won't be soon.

We have a quick look at the map, devise a sort-of route, then head off back down the road (A6013) to the dam wall. There is a fair amount of traffic this morning, which doesn't please Mollie, but when we take the path running away from the dam and down the slope she begins to relax. 

On this stretch we meet some other dog walkers (one with a very friendly Jack Russell terrier) and a couple of small groups of hikers - looks like it could be a busy day.

When we come out on the small side road we turn right and pause on the bridge over the River Derwent to admire the view before turning left and looking for our next footpath. This path, on our right in a few yards, climbs upwards and brings us out onto the old railway line which now runs level and straight for walkers, cyclists and horse riders.

It is pleasant, easy walking and despite the wind it is also quite mild. We are able to indulge in conversation without being troubled with map reading or too much of a view. 

The trail (it is the linear Thornhill Trail apparently) dips to cross a minor road, then rises again at the far side. We spy a bench with a rather ugly pictorial monument next to it and decide to pause for a nip of Ramblers. OK, so we haven't been out long, and we were late setting off, but we feel the need! We sit, enjoy our drink and a chocolate treat, then some coffee, and as Mollie eats her biscuits we are greeted once again by the fussy Jack Russell terrier.

It is tempting just to sit here and gossip, we aren't that far off lunchtime, but if we stay we won't get going again so we press on.

The trail isn't too long, and it is straight, but we keep our eyes open for a path on our right which will take us up to the Thornhill road. Before we reach it we meet, yet again, the Jack Russell looking far dirtier than before. Mollie is ecstatic and greets the terrier like a long-long love. It's owner wryly informs us that the dog has rolled in something smelly and will be having a bath as soon at it gets home!

 

We soon reach our right hand path, a short but robust climb up a field, and emerge onto the road. Here we turn left and begin to walk towards the village of Thornhill, admiring the last of the snowdrops, the first of the daffodils and the hellebores which are flowering in abundance. The road loops around to the right and, ignoring the left hand turning, continues straight on, past the small church and to where the road becomes 'unsuitable for traffic'.

 

At least we know that we are unlikely to be dodging many cars on here even though there are some isolated houses. Once again we are looking for a right hand path, one we have been on before but in the opposite direction, and eventually we spot it half hidden in a hedge. It's a pretty steep stile from this direction - the field it leads into is a good 4 foot higher than the road - but we manage it before pausing to take our bearings.

 

Clearly not a terribly well used route we do manage to make out where the path leads to, which is across several fields and a number of stiles and extremely narrow crushes. One is so narrow at the bottom that Mollie cannot squeeze through and we have to take her along the field wall to a broken-down section where she can hop through easily.

 

We wait at one stile for a flock of suspicious and scraggy looking sheep to scamper out of our way before we proceed to the end of the path and a narrow gate which leads to a boggier section of path. Not too bad, though, as it hasn't rained much recently.

 

Emerging from this we come to a vague 'crossroads' where, after a brief debate, we plan out the rest of our walk, heading left and following the signpost pointing towards Win Hill. 

 

This first section of the path is very boggy although some stepping stones have been considerately laid. Further on though the path has been churned up by less-than considerate cyclists. Surely they should be aware that cyclists are not allowed on Public Footpaths!

 

 

 

 

The path starts to climb a little but as we enjoy the opening views we are both quite surprised at the height we have reached with minimal effort. Of course, before long we do have a steeper stretch to negotiate, but overall it is a pretty painless ascent.

 

We can certainly feel the breeze up here, but it is sunny and it feels wonderful to be out. As we continue in a generally uphill direction the path runs along Thornhill Carrs - steeply up to our left, steeply down to our right. Mollie spots some sheep meandering along the right hand bank and trying to hide beneath a stunted tree. It isn't working.

 



Further on we decide it is time for lunch, so we find a comfortable spot sheltered from the wind and with wonderful views ahead. I have a traditional 'heavy salad' whereas PC is on the sandwiches. Mollie, of course, devours her biscuits then looks longingly at us as we eat our buns. Today's choice, an early Easter treat, fresh cream hot cross buns. With jam in them too. They are extremely good and Mollie is disappointed not to be asked to help.

As we finish our coffee we become aware of the chill; darker clouds are looming and the temperature has dropped. We pack up and return to the path which leads us straight to the base of the final climb up Win Hill. But that isn't our destination today, instead we head down, but rather than negotiating the steep Parkin Clough path we veer off on the track that angles away from it to the left. It still goes downhill and, as we hoped, meets the straight(ish) and gently descending path through the woods.

It's very easy walking now, an easy meander, and being in amongst the trees keeps off the wind. Soon we come to a gate on our right which, once through it, takes us down a rutted track to the road which runs alongside the western edge of Ladybower. Not far now fortunately as there is a distinct feel of rain in the air.

It doesn't take too long to reach the gate leading onto the dam wall, but not before I have skirted, and PC has studied, three frogs, two of them in a very amorous position!

We cross the walkway over the dam, the wind whistling through the railings and making a musical hum to accompany us. Soon we are on the road and walking back to the cars. We have enough time to take off our walking gear and sit for a while to plan our next walk, then the heavens open. Talk about lucky. Another 5 minutes and we would have been soaked.

So, despite not having had any particular plan for today, it has all turned out rather well. Fingers crossed that our next walk (semi-planned) is just as good.

A CIRCUIT OF BAMFORD MOOR

 

It's been a grim and grey few weeks, and not just with the weather. With PC off sailing the seven seas and family events taking over to a suffocating degree, getting out walking had fallen off the bottom of my list of things to do. But, joy of joys, an email from PC announced her pending arrival back in the UK for a friend's wedding and would I like to go walking the day after she landed. Would I?

Of course, the week leading up to PC's arrival had been bright, sunny and summery. The day of our planned walk dawned grim, dim and rainy. But undeterred we were still raring to go.

PC looks healthy and tanned (obviously not been in Britain, then) but had missed the moors and paths of the Peak District. She'd also missed proper English tea so had used up all her milk. Good job I have brought the coffee.

We meet at one of our familiar spots, the layby near to Cutthroat Bridge just above Ladybower, and we have a plan. Since we don't have Mollie with us today (too short notice to plan to bring her) it means we are free to roam on the access land leading across Bamford Moor to Bamford Edge. We've only done this once before, years ago (we tried once before that when the moor was first opened but the belligerent gamekeeper of the day considered a miniature poodle on a short lead to be a great threat to his game birds and turned us back before we got very far).  Back then we did struggle to beat our way through the thick heather to our destination. This time we're hoping to be luckier.

We walk down the side of the busy A57 and take the stile next to the gate leading onto the access land beneath Hordron Edge. We're on a clear track (frequented by gamekeepers and shooters) taking us gently through thin coniferous woodland which shields the moors from the road. It is so good to be out again, even if it keeps trying to rain.

Immediately we notice how much noise there is from the birds. We hear curlews and a cuckoo almost straight away, and there are others that we cannot identify. The track continues beneath Hordron Edge and when we come to the next woodland copse we see a bird up on the rocks to our left. I eventually manage to take a photograph, but although the bird is silhouetted against the light its long pointed beak is obvious. Is this the noisy but elusive curlew?

We continue along the track enjoying the chance to catch up on all that has happened in the last few weeks. It seems an age since we were last walking and apart from a few emails we haven't had the opportunity to exchange gossip. All that is changing!

As the track starts a gentle upward incline above the stream running down from Jarvis Clough we see a narrow but fairly distinct path on the opposite side. Recalling our problems on our previous walk, and the lack of any kind of path through the thick heather, we decide to drop down to the stream, cross over and follow the path.

 

This is done without an problems and we are soon walking up the path towards a single tree. We pause to admire the distant views of Stanage Edge before stooping beneath the tree and walking uncomfortably close to an old, disused quarry. The path levels out and we walk on a little way, following a drystone wall, then decide to stop for a break. We don't need a rest, but the secret flask and secret chocolate (yes, chocolate too) are calling.

We settle down on some flat stones at a broken section of the wall and pull out the secret flask. The Ramblers Restorative tastes wonderful, as does the Old Jamaica chocolate.

We have good, if rather murky, views across the Derwent Moors whilst behind us we can see (if we turn around) Stanage Edge. We have barely finished our drink and chocolate when the rain starts again, and this time it seems to mean it. We pack up quickly and pull on our waterproof trousers and coats before setting off again, keeping roughly to the line of the wall and the path.

The rain doesn't last long and by the time we have reached the rocks marked Pillars on the map the sun has come out and we need to remove the waterproofs as we're in danger of providing ourselves with our own greenhouse effect.

It is fairly easy walking, and the path is clear enough for us not to have to struggle through the heather. So far we haven't seen another soul out walking.

Before long we come to more rocks and decide to find somewhere comfortable for lunch. Once settled we pull out our food, and enjoy our buns (a cinnamon swirl danish and an apricot danish - we split them in half so we can have a taste of each) and a convivial drink of coffee. It is so good to be sat here enjoying the fresh air, views and company that we are most reluctant to get going, and we linger for quite a while. Eventually though we must move on and we pick up the path again.

 

The northern end of Bamford Edge starts to come into view, and we have a clear view of Win Hill across the valley, looking very stark and imposing from this vantage point. As we approach Bamford Edge we can see someone there, and when we get closer we realise it is a climber. He's holding a rope and looking over the edge, hopefully there's someone on the other end.

 

We walk along the wide path that tops the Edge giving us great views down to Bamford and across the Derwent valley, then further away to our left we can see the full stretch of Stanage Edge.

 

Up to this point we hadn't quite decided which route to take back, so we come to a decision and turn left to pick up the very indistinct path heading towards Moscar Moor. To begin with it is moderately clear, although we suspect it is used more by sheep than people, but eventually it peters out altogether. We could start compass work to attempt to find the correct route, but since this is access land we decide to strike out in the direction we want. Very quickly we are rewarded by another indistinct track, this time following some stone posts from a long gone fence line.

 

It's lovely out here with only the odd sheep for company. In places the heather is very high, though fortunately not where we are walking, and there are large areas of gnarled, whitened twigs where parts of the moor have been cleared. In amongst the low growing heather, though, are clumps of the while tufty 'flower' heads of Common cotton-grass (Eriophorum angustifolium), a sedge which favours boggy areas. 

We have to skirt one boggy area where the ground dips, but we do that easily enough without losing sight of where we are going even though we seem to have reached the end of our line of stone posts. Ahead are the grouse butts and a stone wall, beyond that we can see the top of the track that we had started out on.

As we reach the vehicle track that runs from the grouse butts to the main track another walker strides across the moor and passes us without saying a word. We allow him his space and follow him at a distance. When we reach the main track we see him striking off across Moscar Moor towards Stanage Edge, but we decide instead to take the route over Hordron Edge where there is a large amount of bird activity. We spend a while trying to capture shots of them in flight but don't have much success.

Further along we see another man and realise that he is at the stone circle known as the Seven Stones of Hordron. He scowls at us as we approach, refuses to answer a friendly 'hello' then sits on one of the stones with his arms folded, glaring. As we look at the stone circle and start to take photographs he snatched up his bag and stalks off. Phew. Glad I didn't see him when I was walking alone.

The stone circle is about 16m in diameter and there are about 23 of them in total, if you count all of the smaller ones as well as the main ones. It is in a superb position with the hills and edges forming an amphitheatre around it.

Once we've finished looking around we continue along Hordron Edge then drop down towards the road. Sadly there is a taught wire fence at the edge so no short cut, instead we walk down to the conifer wood, reach the main track then go down to the stile. It's only a few minutes now and once we've walked up the side of the busy road we're back at the cars.

It has been an amazing day. Despite the promise of rain we've only had one wet spell and that didn't drench us. We've enjoyed a long satisfying walk and even been and seen places we've not ventured to before.

Once the wedding is over PC will be back to the ocean waves, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that family trials and tribulations will ease allowing me to get out again.

WET AND WINDY WIN HILL

We're going for one of PC's favourites this week as it's her pre-birthday walk, so even though we've done it before we're doing it again - and choosing the harder route.

As usual we meet up in the layby near the Yorkshire Bridge Inn, giving ourselves plenty of time for the walk. With the cold, wet weather we aren't surprised to be the only ones out today, although for now the overnight deluge has ceased. And we have Mollie today too.

First of all we walk up towards the huge dam wall then take the footpath sharp left which zig-zags downwards through the trees to the road and the Yorkshire Bridge over the River Derwent. 

We pause for a moment to watch the fast flowing river, then walk up the road on the western bank. We come to an attractive water run-off beside some stone steps. These are the beginning of what will be a steep climb.

This first flight of steps gets the leg muscles warmed up and as we reach the disused railway line Mollie hurtles off to play with a couple of other dogs. Their owners offer dire warnings to us when they realise that we're continuing upwards rather than taking the level track. It's easy to see why.

Once Mollie has come back to us we embark on the climb up the side of Parkin Clough; a steep unrelenting slog up that reminds us of the Secret Stairs at the Pass of Cirith Ungol (Lord of the Rings fans will know exactly what we mean) and has us re-enacting scenes from the film ("Come on, Mr Frodo."  "I can't make it, Sam." etc etc). It's a good job there isn't anyone around to hear or see us!

Despite the steepness of the path, and the slippery stones, we do make relatively good time and aren't struggling as we did some years ago when we last came this way (and yes, we did the Sam and Frodo scenes then, too!) We may be getting older but we must be getting fitter by way of compensation.

A couple of women walkers pass us going down - we don't envy them making their way down the slippery path - then PC remarks how unusual it is for us to see women walkers out. She's right. It's very rare for us to see pairs of women (even rarer to see single women) out on the hills. It's usually men, or women with men, or mixed groups.

After pondering that for a while we press on upwards, and the path becomes less challenging once it has been crossed by the Ladybower to Aston footpath. It's still uphill, though, but we soon pass through a small gateway and onto the slope of Win Hill.

There are neatly laid steps here for erosion control. They do a good job protecting the path, but are less gentle on the knees. As we press on up the steps the full force of wind - which had only filtered down to us earlier - starts to make itself felt. We drag on another layer and plod on.

As we are struggling to find armholes that are flapping around in the gale a single walker (male) strides past us on his way to the top. He only has on a thin waterproof jacket and we both bet that he's feeling the cold. We're wearing about 5 layers each and we can still feel the chill.

The last time we were up Win Hill we had walked up from Hope, it had been snowing and the wind was howling. It was quite a feat of endurance back then, but today we only had the wind to contend with even though it was constantly buffeting us and trying to blow us off our feet.

We slipped over the top of the hill, ignoring the Trig Point, and found a hollow in which to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee (and a nip from the secret flask). We had a lovely view over the reservoirs and the long ridges beyond. It feels really good to think, yes, we've walked there, and there, and the views from that spot are wonderful.

We can also see the lone walker now running down a path below us, heading for the trees. We wonder if, perhaps, he is running to keep warm!

After our coffee we set off again and on our way down the western slope of the hill we see two more walkers coming towards us from the Hope Path. And they are two young women. So that's twice in a day that we've encountered women walkers. Excellent.

We find the narrow, indistinct path through the heather to our right and turn onto it. The peaty path is quite slippery and we manage to put up a grouse from its cosy spot, it rises clucking and chuckling with annoyance as its stubby wings propel it a couple of feet off the ground.

As we reach the bottom of the path we come to a fence, and a choice. Straight ahead is the path directly down to the reservoir, but we know from experience that this path can be muddy and slick at the best of times. Also, it will takes us back far too soon - we've made extremely good time and it isn't even lunch time.

So instead we turn left and take the path that skirts to the top of the wooded valley. We decide not to walk right next to the fence line but keep to the moor path which, whilst being less well-trod, is more direct, cutting out a sharp up-and-down that we're happy to avoid.

There are a couple of 'interesting' bits (PC's words, not mine) where we have to cross small streams, but the ground isn't as boggy nor the streams as deep as they could be.

It's quite a long way, on the map, to our turn-off path but we find that the reasonably level ground (if you discount the heather, stones, rocks and general moorland obstacles) makes for easy walking. We're contouring rather than climbing so we cover a lot of ground fairly quickly.

We turn right through a gate in the fence line which takes us back into the woods. There's plenty of grass beneath the trees here, the plantation isn't too dense, and we soon find ourselves a fallen tree on which to sit and enjoy lunch.

I did say it was PC's pre-birthday walk. So out comes the (small) bottle of wine for a toast. It's nicely chilled - naturally! - and we enjoy it in not-quite-cut-glass plastic cups. Doesn't affect the taste one bit.

We eat our sandwiches quickly, because we want to get to the puddings. Fresh cream and jam scones - PC confesses that she likes scones in all their many varieties - and these are good ones. Loads of cream and very stodgy. Yum. Mollie is allowed to lick out the carton they came in - makes a change from her dog biscuits. We follow the scones with coffee then, because it's birthday time, we each have a small tiramisu. By the time we've managed that we are well and truly full and feeling in need of a post-lunch nap to sleep off the excess calories.

But we can't have a snooze, so we pack up - rucksacks much lighter - and set off downhill. The light seems to be fading. It's a lot darker under the trees but maybe the clouds are gathering too, and of course dusk does fall much earlier at this time of year.

We walk down the rutted path and through the large gate at the bottom, turning left on the wide bridleway. Very easy walking now as we go steadily downhill until, at last, we reach the broad track which flanks the long arm of Ladybower. From here it's a straight, easy to follow if not quite level walk back along the length of the reservoir and around to the dam wall.

By the time we reach the dam the light is fading fast and the wind catches us anew as we leave the shelter of the trees. We don't think we've ever been out so close to dusk and we can see the lights of cars and houses clearly. As we walk across the dam path the wind is howling, and it is blowing through the hollow railings making an eerie, whistling sound - our very own wind orchestra!

It isn't far from here back to the cars, and by the time we have removed our gear and prepared to set off we have to use our headlights. It's been an excellent, long day and, for the time of year, a remarkably fine one too.

BEYOND HOPE LIES DESPAIR - AND AN OLD ROMAN FORT

Or at least a fair amount of mud ... a round walk from Hope to Brough and Bradwell

Pastures new for us this week with only a vague plan of our exact route. The title of the post is courtesy of PC's husband, and when we hit the muddy patches we couldn't do any more than agree with him.

It isn't a particularly inspiring day; overcast in places, foggy in others, and cold. We're without dog again - Mollie nowhere to be found when PC went to collect her (she must have been hiding since she was in her basket when PC checked on her return journey!) so we know we don't have to worry too much about traffic, which Mollie hates.

We meet in Hope and as soon as we're booted up we head to the toilets, only to find them closed. And on a cold day too...

We amble past the church then walk down the narrow lane at the side before coming to the bridge over a wide stream (Peakshole Water?) and pause to admire the admittedly small Pinfold on the opposite side of the road. Then we're off up the road and taking the first turn on the left.

It's uphill at this point but once we've passed a huge, steaming pile of manure (yes, really) we turn left again and climb over a stile into an only-slightly muddy field with excellent views back 

towards Hope and up towards Lose Hill and Win Hill. The large grassy field is full of sheep, and I'm only grateful that they aren't cattle, or we'd be looking for another way around.

Marked on the OS map is an old cross (remains of) and we wonder if we have found it when we come up against a single post standing in the ground. PC takes a photo for our records then we're on our way again.

The indistinct path takes us slightly uphill and through a gateway, which is a little muddier than the last one. Soon we crest the small rise and can look along a broad sweeping field with sparse woodland on our right and the River Noe away to our left. We keep close to the tree line as the path is invisible here, and soon we are rewarded with the sight of a wooden bridge.

The colours of the leaves, deep buttery yellow, stand out against the dark background of the enclosed bridge. The bridge, however, is not the easiest to cross since it doesn't have a stile, just some rails to clamber over. The stream which it spans appears to be lined with stone, so once over the other side I decide to consult the map. That is, after I have ploughed through the mud! In the field on this side of the stream are horses. Nothing wrong with that, but they do have a tendency to churn up the ground and they have made a spectacular job of it here.

Once I'm through the mud I wait for PC and peruse the map, coming to the conclusion that we have, in fact, found the roman fort of Navio. All that remains now is a raised square platform with some broken stones in the centre - and although they don't look too impressive these mark the entrance to the roman underground strong room. There is quite a bit of information on the web for Navio, and some good ariel photos, but for some background information that isn't too heavy try looking at:  www.peakdistrictonline.co.uk/navio-rom

After spending a little time wandering around the old fort, and fending off the curious horses who are determined to act as our guides, we continue south into the village of Brough. Here we turn left on the road, over the swift running Bradwell Brook, then cross the road and take the lane opposite.

Here we head uphill, and it really is uphill, all the way!

Part way up the hill the road turns at a right angle, and continues to climb. We push on, enjoying the opening views, though we aren't so thrilled about the sight of the cement works. It is cathedral-like in stature, and dominates everything. But so ugly.

There are some walkers ahead of us, and we deliberately keep our pace slow so that we don't catch up with them. For if we did, and then overtook them, we'd be forced to push our pace, and we don't want to do that! As we follow in their (slow) footsteps we discover that they have dropped a piece of paper. Picking it up we see that it is a walk description from The Sheffield Star newspaper. Well, there's no way we're sprinting after them to return the paper but we tuck it into our map holder just in case we catch up with them at some point.

It's a long haul up the steep hill but the views are good, if not particularly photogenic. It is probably an old pack horse road, and is called Brough Lane on the map.

Sure enough, as the track levels off a little we see the three walkers ahead pausing at a stile. It's the route they should be taking (if they are following the Star walk) but after a discussion they ignore the path and carry on. We're determined not to rush to catch up. We know the path we want, and it's the next one along.

By the time we reach 'our' path the three men are dithering at the stile. As we approach (there's a limit to how slow we can walk) one of them says that he hopes we aren't following them as they're lost (bloody cheek!) At that we produce their scrap of paper - to their great delight - and we explain to them where they are and where they need to go. Needless to say they don't have a map with them, assuming that the vague newspaper route is sufficient. Hmmmm.

We point them in the right direction and let them go on ahead as we saunter behind and look for a place to stop for lunch. At last we squeeze through a gate and find a lovely spot with our backs to a drystone wall and a view over the village of Bradwell and the surrounding countryside. Even the sun has started to shine for us.

We start off with a nip from the secret flask. The sun may be shining but it isn't exactly warm. Then it's coffee before the sandwiches. We eat the sandwiches quickly, mainly because we're keen to get to the buns which are, hopefully, better than last week's.

Sticky Nutty Cheesecake Wedges. There's a first time for everything and although these don't look too impressive they do taste very good. A gooey caramel topping and a very tasty nutty and caramel cheesecake filling. We proclaim them to be excellent, and decide to finish off with another coffee. At this point, PC's husband comes in for a fair amount of stick since there isn't enough coffee in the flask for another cup, and he's the one who so generously made it this week - for the first and last time! So we are forced to have another nip from the other secret flask to compensate for the lack of coffee.

By now it's time to move on so we haul ourselves upright and set off down the hill. The path is very distinct, though narrow, and most unpleasant. It is extremely muddy with a high potential for slips and slides. We manage to stay upright but at times it's a close run thing. It seems a very long way to walk when you're having to watch every step, and avoiding some of the worst sections isn't easy. Finally, with very muddy boots, we make it to the tarmac road at the bottom of the hill.

We've never been to Bradwell before and as we walk through the village we are surprised at how lovely it is. Narrow streets, attractive cottages, and quiet. And you can't actually see the cement works.

We meander down to the main road, pause at the bridge crossing over the Bradwell Brook, and admire the curious street names. It really is a lovely village.

We have to follow the main road for a while before crossing over and turning left onto a narrow road. This will take us all the way back to Hope. It passes between some old quarry lakes, and we read a sign on a fence post about a boy who fell into one of the lakes and drowned as emergency services were unable to reach him. Tragic.

There is quite a bit of traffic on the road, probably because it provides a perfect short cut between the two villages but there is enough room to walk too. It doesn't take us long to arrive back at the large manure heap - a steaming beacon to mark our way - then drop down to the main road into the village.

It's only a short walk now past the church and to our cars. We're muddy, but we've been worse, and we're pleased to have done the walk although we wouldn't really call it one of our favourites. PC is keen to set off to check if Mollie is OK (she is, and seemingly very sheepish for a collie!) but we have time to plan our walk for next week. Since it will be PC's birthday week she has chosen one of her favourites, Win Hill, so we're keeping our fingers crossed for good weather since the last time we were there it was pretty grim! Hopefully we'll avoid the snow and the sun will shine on us.