GRINDSBROOK HORSESHOE

With a fortuitous bit of timing PC is home for a brief spell before I go on holiday and we're able to get out walking. Not our usual day, which is probably why the sun is shining!

We're meeting in the car park at Edale and there are already a lot of cars here. But the weather is promising and, something we tend to forget, this is a tourist area and the holidays have already begun for some.

We are dog-free today so only have ourselves to plan for. After a moment of deliberation we decide to go for the longer parking charge, we want to enjoy our walk, not be rushing to get back before the traffic warden.

So we set off, coat-free and fleece-free for the first time this year (though we do have them packed!) We walk up the lane and admire the church before stopping at the little shop to buy some water. Typically we had both forgotten to bring extra.

Then it's onward, following the road to the end before veering right and down the wooded slope to the bridge over the trickling Grinds Brook. Up the steps at the other side and we're into the open with a view of our route ahead.


The main path continues straight on but we take the less distinct path to the right, rising steeply up the grassy slope to the stile adjacent to Heardman's Plantation. We pause briefly before setting off uphill on the zigzag path climbing up The Nab. It's really quite hot now, the sun is very bright and we're glad we bought the extra drinks.

We decide to sit on the rocky outcrop for a while just enjoying the view over The Vale of Edale. This is a day to savour so there's no point rushing. Besides, there's plenty of walking ahead, and a breather (plus a nip from PC's secret flask) does no harm!

We set off once more and the path is generally much easier, which is good as it is getting rather hot. Who'd have thought, sunshine in an English summer!

As we approach the base of Ringing Roger we can see a steep, maintained path of steps and rubble up its shoulder. It doesn't look particularly appealing and we're sure we didn't go up that way last time we were here. After a brief map consultation we confirm that we take the narrow but gentle path which contours around the base. This brings us to a shorter, simpler climb onto the ridge a little to the east of Golden Clough. We turn left, clamber up to Nether Tor, and pause. The views are spectacular. A little hazy from the sun, but wonderful nonetheless.

Apart from a few undulations the climbing is behind us, so we can walk along with ease, enjoying the views down the valley and across to Grindslow Knoll. 

Naturally, this walking works up an appetite, but the wind is gusting quite strongly by the time we reach Hartshorn and Upper Tor, so we mooch about a bit until we find some comfy (relatively) rocks shielded by heather and peat where we sit down for lunch. It has clouded over now, so we pull on our fleeces for the first time today.

Sandwiches, coffee, and buns - these are apple crumble buns, a bit like a Chelsea bun but with only a few raisins and not enough apple or crumble topping, but they are soft and suitability stodgy and go down extremely well.

Yes, there is a temptation to linger, but we still have a long walk ahead, so we set off again. From here the path does meander a bit more, and there are a couple of trickles of water, to cross. 

We meet three young women and pause briefly to chat. Each is carrying a baby, snuggled, asleep and well protected from the sun. We admire the stoicism and determination that has brought these young mums out hiking. Babies and young children can be very hard work, and even a trip to the shops can feel like an expedition with all the preparation required, so all credit to these young mums, long may they continue.

From here we go through a gate (yes, all the way up here) and it's fleeces-off time. We wander off the path to have a look at a rock formation and to get a view down a steep sided Clough. And, admittedly, to allow three quite loud walkers to pass us. Once they've gone we continue, only to see the three of them sat on the rocks ahead blocking the path over the next ford (ie, trickle of water). Fortunately on our approach they decide to move on and we are left alone.

This is the to the north of the final push up from Grindsbrook Clough and the water is one of the major tributaries to the Brook. The rocks are flat and wide, and the peaty brown water is too tempting. Making sure to tuck our gear away from the crossing point we remove boots and socks and indulge in a paddle. Bliss!!

We're able to spend quite a bit of time here, the sun is warm and the water isn't too cold. No one comes along, so once we've dried off and donned boots and rucksacks again there is no one to witness our ungainly hoisting of ourselves up the steep sided rocks up to the path.

From here it's pretty easy going again. We detour a few yards to cross the top of Grinds Brook easily, then walk around to the mushroom stone (our name). There are a few people up here, most have probably come up Grindsbrook Clough, but there's plenty of space.

We aim now for Grindslow Knoll and as we do we spot a pristine rail ticket on the floor. I pick it up, it has today's date on it. Ahead of us there are three men so, since they don't hear us call, I volunteer to run up to them (yes, run). When I reach the last man who has paused to take photos with his phone he discovers he'd lost the ticket from his phone case. So luckily, man and ticket were reunited.

We carried on, rose over the top of Grindslow Knoll and looked around for a potential Kinder Downfall route - for sometime in the future, not today.

Then begins the arduous descent of Grindslow. It isn't particularly bad, but it is something we have never really embraced with enthusiasm. It's constantly watching your every footstep for loose rocks and rubble, with some awkward areas to negotiate. Once the worst is over it does ease quite a bit, before becoming rubbly again. And wow, is the sun hot now.

At last we reach the gate leading into the final grassy sheep-grazed slope. The three men who had been some way behind suddenly overtake us, as does a couple with dog. We saunter, reluctant to relinquish the last of the walk.

We head back to the car park, resisting the lure of the pub, and feel that deep satisfaction of a great walk completed. To say that I have caught the sun would be an understatement, though PC has undoubtedly only topped up her envious Mediterranean tan. This has been a great, unexpected interlude in a summer we expected to be devoid of walking, and we have managed it on a near-perfect day.

BETWEEN THE MOUNTAIN AND THE FLOOD IN EDALE

The heavy snow at the weekend, despite it having melted away with amazing speed, has left us in a bit of a quandary. Walking low level is going to mean soggy feet and a miserable slog through boggy, muddy ground. But the wind is blowing pretty fiercely so high ground, as we know to our cost, is likely to be uncomfortable, if not dangerous.

So, we meet up in Castleton to debate the options and consult the map. We don't want the high road or the low road, just something in between. There is still some snow here, snuggled in pockets under walls and in the lee of hedges, and chalking the folds of the hills.

At last we make up our minds and return to our cars for the interesting drive up Winnats Pass (why do cars on the way down think they have the right to drive in the middle of the road?) then turning right, left and right again until we climb up and over the pass between Mam Tor and Rushup Edge before winding carefully down the steep road to Edale. The view that opens out as you crest the ridge and start the descent is nothing short of amazing. Pity we can't take photos whilst driving.

When we reach the valley bottom at Barber Booth we take the tiny road at the side of the River Noe, hope we don't meet any cars coming the other way, then park up in the small deserted car park. All we need to do now is kit up and get walking.

Yes, it is bitterly cold, there is the promise of rain and there's more snow on the hills in this valley, but we set off up the tarmac road with an air of expectation. We're familiar with short sections of today's walk, but not with the whole of it, and we do like going somewhere new.

The road takes us as far as Upper Booth where we take the right hand path through the cluster of buildings around a yard, following the line of the Pennine Way. A flamboyant cockerel struts around almost begging to be photographed.

We round a corner where some sheep are penned then hit the well-worn Pennine Way track. In places the track is muddy and flooded with run-off from the hills - so much for us picking a dry route - but it isn't too bad. Mollie paddles through the extensive puddles without a care for her dirty paws or soggy undercarriage.

The wet patches don't last long, and we're soon reasonably dry shod again as the path climbs fairly gently. There are plenty of sheep grazing in these low-level fields, which means that Mollie can't be let off the lead for a run, but that doesn't stop her running as far as the lead will allow.

We crest a small grassy mound beneath the bulk of Broadlee-Bank Tor and are immediately assaulted by a fierce wind that almost blows us backwards. It must channel up the valley and gain enough momentum to really hammer this slightly exposed spot. We manage to take a few photographs, the sunlight is playing hide and seek in between the clouds and it is illuminating the landscape in snatches, bringing out contrasts in colour and form.

Pressing on we dip slightly and lose a little of the wind, and when we come to a stand of trees with conveniently contorted branches that will serve as a bench, we stop for a nip from the secret flask. It's a struggle to open the lid but eventually we succeed and have a couple of warming drinks of Ramblers Restorative. This is the last of the batch but never fear, I have more maturing in the kitchen at home so we won't be deprived of it for long.

Feeling warmed and mellow we continue and soon come to where the Park Authority have deemed it necessary to put large stone flags on the path. It's probably a good idea, this part of the route must carry a lot of foot traffic being so close to Edale, but it does feel out of character. But that is the price so many routes have to pay now that walking is such a popular recreational pursuit.

We gently drop down towards Grindsbrook Booth and come to a decision. It is almost lunch time and we want to eat out of the way. There are walkers coming down the path off Grindslow Knoll and we decide that 'up there' will be a good spot to stop before heading back towards Barber Booth.

Mmm, we'd forgotten how deceptively steep this wide grassy path is and are reminded again why we have never walked up Grindslow Knoll this way. However, today we're only going as far as the Open Access boundary before turning left and following the wall until we find a fairly sheltered spot and a tussocky mound to sit on.

We settle down with our sandwiches (and Mollie with her biscuits) then enjoy a warming coffee. Heavy clouds are gathering but we ignore them as the buns are brought out. Danish pastries with custard and almonds. Very nice, and almost a healthy option! PC starts her bun after me, but finishes first. It is amazing how quickly she can demolish anything sweet and fattening - or maybe it's because I spend too much time talking.

After a second coffee we feel a few drops of rain so pull on our waterproof trousers before we set off again. Fortunately the rain doesn't last long, but the wind has renewed its efforts and is really making itself felt.

Our original intention had been to walk down to Edale village and partway along the road, but instead we've chosen to follow the access boundary (and narrow but distinct hillside path) to avoid traffic.

After a while we are beginning to question our choice. We have to cross a very muddy stream, which really is only a minor inconvenience, but soon we are on the steep hillside and feel as though we really ought to have one leg shorter than the other. The path is very narrow, meaning each footstep has to be directly in front of the last (models may do it on the catwalk with ease, but not on a steep hillside - and we aren't models), the wind is pushing us around and Mollie can't make up her mind whether to walk in front, pull to investigate sheep or stop and refuse to move.

Eventually, though, the path begins to drop and we make our way down to a gate in the wall which takes us back towards the Pennine Way. Soon we're back on our outward path, but returning towards Upper Booth.

When we get there the cockerel is there to greet us, along with a small harem of hens, and as before he seems very pleased with himself.

It's an easy walk along the road and back to the cars, although the tiny car park is just about full. As soon as we've managed to remove our gear and get in the car the heavens open. Our timing was perfect, for a change.

END OF SEASON CHALLENGE - THE GRINDSBROOK HORSESHOE

OR: UP HIP AND AWAY.....




It's hard to believe that this is to be the last walk of our 'season'. School holidays put an abrupt end to our walking although we'll both be putting one boot in front of the other albeit separately and in different locations.


So, for our Grand Finale we meet up in Edale. It's a choice spot for high summer walks because of the long days, the large choice of routes and - hopefully - good weather. Today we seem to be in luck as despite a few dodgy clouds looming on the way here we seem to have lost them and the sun is shining out of an impressively blue sky. I'm even wearing shorts - scary!


We've decided to head up Grindsbrook and discuss our route as we walk. Normally we take the popular track up to the head of the Clough then make the steep climb up to the top, and once we even went up the Grindslow Knoll route (never again), but this time as we stride into the meadow after crossing the bridge over Grinds Brook and clambering up the steep steps at the other side, we choose to turn right on the path that climbs up towards The Nab, Ringing Roger and the edge of the Kinder Plateau.

The grassy path starts to climb immediately and we're soon feeling warm, and not just because of the sunshine. Soon the grass gives way to an eroded path which, in turn, leads us to a gate in the wall. Once through this we're really on the long haul upwards. The path has been laid over with stones because, no doubt, of severe erosion and we consider that a pretty good job has been done. The 'steps' are fairly even and of a reasonable stride length which makes climbing up so much easier. The path takes a sharp left and we continue to follow it as it zig-zags its way up the hillside. Naturally we keep stopping to admire the ever-widening view over Edale and the Great Ridge beyond.

When the path suddenly becomes easy, rather than be elated we tread suspiciously, and sure enough our suspicious thoughts are confirmed. Ahead lies the steep, eroded and rocky clamber up Ringing Roger. Of course, we could go around, there is a lower path, but we're making excellent time and aren't feeling even slightly weary, so onward it is.

Naturally, it isn't too easy. The erosion and loose stones make it a bit of a challenge, but it's well worth the effort and soon we've made it around the top and onto the path leading to the head of Golden Clough. Standing on the path overlooking the deep valley of Grindsbrook below, feeling the wind in our hair and the sun on our faces is one of the magical moments that makes us get out walking whenever we can.

It's only a short haul up to the very top now, and again the path has been paved against erosion though not as sensitively as at the bottom as some of the steps are high, others low making you walk unevenly. Still, it's a little matter once we're on the top and walking across Nether Tor.

The path is level and almost sandy with tiny pebbles of quartz scattered all around. The views are spectacular and some of the rock formations amazing. There are huge slabs of almost flat rock, then tortured, wind-sculpted monuments.

When we arrive at the superb rock formation called Hartshorn we manage to squeeze down out of the wind and threatening clouds to sit for lunch whilst enjoying the dizzying view.

Since it's our last walk the buns are really special and summery: shortcake pastry, creme anglaise and fresh strawberries. Funny how we go silent when we're eating something so nice!

The clouds are moving fast, changing from dark grey to white to grey again, so it's off with the sunglasses and on with a fleece as we leave our lunch spot and continue on our way. We've decided by now that we're going to go the for complete horseshoe. After all, going down the rocky wall at Grindsbrook Head isn't something we were particularly looking forward to and we don't reckon we'll lose much, if any, time going the slightly longer route.

The path meanders a bit in places to avoid having to cross deep water run-off from the plateau, although at time time of year there is barely a puddle or two to negotiate. We have to do a little bit of rock climbing (OK so we'd not picked up the 'easy' path but hey, no problems) and we're soon at Grindsbrook Head. No, we're definitely not going down that way.

As we walk around the top of the Head and photograph the mushroom shaped rock the sun comes out again and the grey clouds have disappeared. Wonderful.

It's an easy enough walk up to Grindslow Knott although PC decides to skirt around its side rather than go straight over the top, but the views from the top are amazing. There's a whole 360 degree panorama that no amount of photographs can do justice to. There's also splendid views of the far ridge we've just walked too.

Next is the descent, and the first bit can be a bit tricky although we manage well enough (utilizing hands, feet and bums) but it reminds us, as if we needed it, why we don't walk up this way any more. It is steep on the way down, and pretty relentless. Although really it is fairly easy it can make the legs ache.

Soon enough, though, the gateway is in sight and we're walking through the grassy sloping fields towards Grindsbrook Booth. The last section of the path is beneath a canopy of trees, then we're out on the road again and heading down to the car park at Edale.

It's been a marvellous walk to end a marvellous season. Little did we imagine back in the Winter when PC had her hip replacement that we'd be doing anything as good as this so soon. We'd both thought that a route such as today's would be out of the question for at least another year, but we're both pleased to have been proved wrong.

So that's it until September. Over the summer we might be able to get around to putting some more photos on the blog, or some details of older walks (and the Missing Wood), but we'll also be out walking, just not in the Peaks.

Happy Holidays.

EDALE, GRINDSBROOK CLOUGH, KINDER PLATEAU, GRINDSLOW KNOLL

What a fantastic day. Clear skies, sunshine and temperatures well into the 20s. It couldn't be better for our walk.

We love coming to Edale but our outings here tend to be restricted. Long days are needed because we have a long drive to reach here and can only make it when school timetables and extra-curricular activities allow. Today luck was on our side.

The car park at Edale is spacious, with loads of room first thing in the morning, so why does someone have to park right beside me? I give them one of my special looks, but I don't think they notice. This is a pay and display car park but today there's no ticket machine. It had, apparently, been stolen to be replaced by a poor woman cooped up in a shed peering out glumly at the sunshine. Perhaps she'll be able to get her own back later by doling out parking fines to those who have outstayed their ticket times.

We pay our money and set off, not even having to bother pulling on jumpers or coats - a most unusual occurrence. Walking through Edale village we catch up on a week's worth of news and gossip, and spy some bluebells in the hedge bottom. No doubt the sunshine has brought them out making us wonder if our bluebell foray in a couple of weeks will be over before we start.

At the end of the road we veer to the right and descend into the cool wooded gloom to cross the bridge over Grinds Brook before climbing smartly up to the other side and into a wide open field. This feels like the start of the walk with the large slabs of stone underfoot to point the way - and prevent excessive erosion.
The temperature is creeping up and as we pause to drink from our water bottles we see the deep scar of a path running down from Grindslow Knoll. We can't remember it being so prominent last time we'd walked here.

This first part of the walk is gentle enough, the slight incline sufficient to warm up the muscles without too much effort. We amble through a copse of trees then cross the small bridge straddling the stream that falls down from Golden Clough. There's a path here, straight up to Nether Tor, but we reckon it must be pretty tough on the leg muscles. We allow a couple to pass us, him with the rucksack, her unencumbered, and I note with envy that it doesn't work that way in my household, quite the opposite, Equality certainly has some downsides.

Here the path is relatively smooth as it follows the brook, albeit on a higher level, and with the continuous steady uphill slope that is so much a part of this valley. The brook is beautiful today, the fresh green Spring growth around it, small frothy waterfalls and deep, inviting plunge pools - especially tempting as the temperature continues to rise.

At the first rough, rocky section we take the obvious path to the left which leads to the brook. Mistake. After scrambling, clambering, rock hopping and swapping from side to side numerous times we manage to recall having been on a higher, easier right hand path in the past. We hadn't spotted it - we hadn't even looked for it - so we're forced into doing impressions of Lara Croft instead.

Eventually we reach an easy section again and, looking back, are surprised at how high we've actually climbed with relatively little effort. Here the brook widens as it cuts through a section of shale. Huge slabs of rock are laying in the water looking very welcoming. However, this is where the walking becomes a little harder.

We're climbing obviously now, and there are rocks and boulders to negotiate. We decide to put on sun cream, a sensible precaution, then carry on upwards. We allow a young couple to pass us, they've been following us quite a way, and PC decides to try the route they've taken although discovers that it isn't quite as easy as she thought. Taking consolation we decide that they probably won't find it half so easy when they have another 25 years on their backs!

We keep pausing, not for breath (although that is a bonus), but to enjoy the ever widening views down the valley which we know will be lost soon. The heat haze doesn't help photo quality, but we know it all looks spectacular.

Soon we hit the part that turns into an unrelenting upward scramble. PC abandons her walking poles as they keep getting in the way; hands are needed here, and we forge on up. It isn't quite as bad as it looks, or as we remember, and every step takes us higher and closer to our goal. As I reach the plateau PC follows behind with the immortal words, "Are we there yet?" Yes, we are, and it's wonderful.
We stop to admire the view then walk on to the aptly named Mushroom Stone before striking away from the path to find somewhere to eat lunch. There are quite a few people up here today, hardly surprising. The weather, the views and the sheer exhilaration are not to be missed. Thank goodness we can come in the week, though. On a good weekend it must be like a motorway service station up here.

We eat our lunch, meagre by any standards, followed by fresh cream doughnuts. It's so warm that the jam in the doughnuts has turned runny, but they're delicious nonetheless as well as providing the necessary calorific intake to give us the energy we need.

We could sit here all day, and it's tempting to lay our backs onto the boulder behind us and drift off, but instead we consult the map to gauge how far it is to Kinder Downfall.
far to even consider today or in the near future as it will mean an early start and late finish. We decide we'll do it when all the girls have left home for university or whatever. That means in another four and a half years or so. We're patient. We can wait.

Despite the desire to linger we press on and the rise up to Grindslow Knoll at 601 m doesn't seem to take much effort - must be because of the doughnuts. Our reward, of course, is the ever expanding panoramic view around a full 360 degrees. The downhill route lays ahead and despite its rock-free grassy slope we're not looking forward to it. It's steep and we know, from experience, it's a killer on the knees. Still, it's the only way to go and we set off, reluctantly leaving the high places behind us.

We're passed by a couple of men, and some more angle down off of other tracks.

We debate how infrequently we see women out on our walks unless they are accompanied by men. Men alone, in pairs or groups are in abundance, but not women. It's sad.

The path turns rough and rubbly, making it slippery underfoot, but we've soon dropped down to the gently sloping field that leads us back to the village. We pause, quite astounded, as on old aircraft flies overhead very low. We watch it go up the valley and out of sight, unable to recognise it, of course. A little earlier we'd have been above it.

We head back to our cars, slower than on the way out. We're tired, but extremely satisfied. It's been a brilliant walk on a perfect day; one to treasure.